Carb percolation and vapor lock

Bob, I would like to try this solution but curious to the benefit of a fuel return with a Holley regulator. Unlike EFI, the unused fuel is not flowing back into the tank, it continues to sit in the bowls of the carbs until used. How is the fuel "cooling" in the carbs?

The percolation happening on my motor seems to be obviously related to heat from the headers because only the rear two IDA's are percolating, closest to the "bundle" (no isolators, turkey pan or shield barrier) and begins after a minute or two from turning the motor off. Odd thing is, #3 & #8 cylinders are the only two that percolate fuel into the throttle body. Is that normal? It's the same throttle body if you're to orient the carbs the same direction so my assumption is that there is an outlet for the fuel to escape easier at one throttle body than the adjacent one.

Tim[/QUOTE]

Tim all the suggestions regarding shields,spacers etc are all valid and play a big part in keeping the carbs cool. Running down the carbs makes sense but is a new one on me however we dont experience temperatures like you have over here. Fuel return is just another bit player, cool fuel is better fuel and without a return it sits in the pipe soaking up engine bay temperatures untill a needle drops , then charges the carb with hot fuel. That cant happen with a fuel return system.

Bob
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
Tim all the suggestions regarding shields,spacers etc are all valid and play a big part in keeping the carbs cool. Running down the carbs makes sense but is a new one on me however we dont experience temperatures like you have over here. Fuel return is just another bit player, cool fuel is better fuel and without a return it sits in the pipe soaking up engine bay temperatures untill a needle drops , then charges the carb with hot fuel. That cant happen with a fuel return system.

Bob

Thanks Bob, that makes sense.

Tim my car is fitted with Webers and like Pat my gas percolates in the back two carbs after shutdown. I try to remember to shut the fuel flow off a couple of blocks from home and that appears to help as my carbs also have the "gaskets" fitted. I did note its always the back two carbs sitting closest to the headers. I feel its a combination of engine heat and header heat. Just my .02.

Jimmy, seems my symptom is similar to yours. Did the phenolic gaskets seem to help?
 

Tim Kay

Lifetime Supporter
So I take it there are no additives for pump gas to increase the boiling point (short of trying AV gas as Scott mentioned).
 

Pat

Supporter
Some of my friends in my local car club recommend Marine Formula "Blue" Sta-Bil Ethanol Treatment while others are seeking out marine and aviation fuel that has lower ethanol. Others have indicated that you need to be sure that if your fuel was purchased March or even April you still may have "Winter Blend" fuel. (The EPA winter oxygenated fuel season is generally October through February or March.) With the summer upon us, old fuel would really aggravate the problem. So all you may need to do is drain the '40 tanks and transfer it to the station wagon and buy some fresh summer blend. I tried that but it really didn't make much of a difference in the 90 degree weather. That said, different areas have different temps and blends so your experience may differ.
I'm not sure if Sta-bil alters the boiling point, but the anti-corrosion benefits alone probably make it worth examining. One friend is buying race fuel but at $9 a gallon that's a pretty pricy alternative.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
When at the track on a hot day I open up the rear bodywork as soon as I return to the pit location. This really makes a big difference on startup for the next session. Opening the back up between session will reduce engine water temp by 50 degrees in an hour, even on a very hot day. Otherwise you will return to the track only 20 or so degrees below where you left it the last session on a 105F day.

Another thing that I think works a bit is pointing the rear of the car into the wind when you park it, if there is any, should you not want to open the back up. The openings in the back of a GT40 will collect a lot of ambiente air into the engine room with very little wind speed. Put your hand in front of the air scoops and see how much hot air is blown out with a little breeze coming into the rear.

The thing that also worked the best for me was running the engine with the pumps off to bleed off fuel pressure when hot as I transit back to the pit spot from the track. Holley 750DP
 
Thanks Bob, that makes sense.



Jimmy, seems my symptom is similar to yours. Did the phenolic gaskets seem to help?

Tim, lets just say they didn't hurt or worsen matters. I think they did. I also do what Howard does....opening the rear clip shortly after parking helps a HUGE amount in getting rid of that engine heat.

Pat, how about STAR TRON? I've been using this product over Sta-bil. I heard it helps with the Ethanol issue.
 

Pat

Supporter
Thanks Jim, I have not seen Star Tron. I'll check it out.

Well, I've got it all together and some interesting results. Pic 001 is the manifold immediately after shutdown and 002 is the carb. While pre-shield they were at the same temps, you'll see with the shield manifold is 182 while the carb is 164, a modest 18F cooler.
The surprise was after 20 minutes of heat soak. Manifold in pic 031 was pretty hot at 159 but pic 033 shows the carb cooled to 118 for a 41F improvement. So it appears the barriers allow the carb to cool faster when should help hot engine restarts.
 

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CHuck & Ryan, IIRC, attacked this problem with a couple fans concealed in the rear of their RCR's sponsons.

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/22083-chuck-ryans-rcr-build-9.html#post396506

Other similar solutions:
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-fueling-electrics-engine-cooling/30983-engine-bay-heat.htm


Alan

This may be the link you were looking for

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/307620-post672.html

A GT driven at 100 mph on a track may have plenty of air passing through the engine compartment, but as a street car a couple of fans moving air strikes me as almost a necessity to minimize the panalopy of problems associated with excess heat.
 
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