CAV foot pedals
- Thread starter tdm434m
- Start date
I have also made a few similar mods that make things quite nice.
I received a pedal kit from CAV that gives about 1-1/2" extra room on the left, I'm told. I haven't driven the car yet, since I don't have it back, but I'm told it's definitely better. A size 10 foot should have no problem.
Try contacting them directly. My car's new, so it may not be available on an earlir model, but I would imagine it is, or they would have included it in the design of mine.
Marty
Try contacting them directly. My car's new, so it may not be available on an earlir model, but I would imagine it is, or they would have included it in the design of mine.
Marty
Any help with proper method to move the pedals closer to the driver would be appreciated. I took a quick look and it appears that I can slide all 3 pedals forward towards driver and then adjust length of brake master pushrod.
Looks like clutch and throttle will move without adjustments?
Car is after number 100.
Thank You
Looks like clutch and throttle will move without adjustments?
Car is after number 100.
Thank You
Eric
Loosen the 4 baseplate bolts and brake master cylinder push rod nuts. Pull the pedal assembly to wards the seat while adjusting/lengthening the brake rod.
Fasten the 4 bolts and rod locking nuts and you should be OK.
Please look at the attached picture to see the push rod adjustment.
No clutch adjustment necessary.
Throttle cable will have to be adjusted at carb/motor to take up the play in the cable.
Good luck.
Loosen the 4 baseplate bolts and brake master cylinder push rod nuts. Pull the pedal assembly to wards the seat while adjusting/lengthening the brake rod.
Fasten the 4 bolts and rod locking nuts and you should be OK.
Please look at the attached picture to see the push rod adjustment.
No clutch adjustment necessary.
Throttle cable will have to be adjusted at carb/motor to take up the play in the cable.
Good luck.
Attachments
tdm - interesting, I had a similar problem in my cav but with my right foot hitting the throttle and the brake at the same time. I ended up taking a very technical path to solve this issue - I got out the hack saw and sawed off the bottom right corner of the brake pedal. My right foot now rests easily on the throttle without hitting the brake pedal. Hope you find a similarly elegant solution.
Regarding pedal box adjustments...has anyone installed an adjustable pedal box that can be adjusted from the driver's seat. I seem to recall an early ERA advertisement that showed just such an arrangement as an option. It had a lever next to the steering column that you could unlock and pull the pedals closer for shorter legged drivers. Please let me know what you think of this idea and if anyone has such an arrangement, a photo would be greatly appreciated.
Garry
Garry
Gary,
The problem is just an exercise in how to hook the pedal box up and get it to move in a frame arrangement. The originals had several mounting holes in a bracket and the pedal box. That allowed the owner to move the box fore and aft as they needed it, albeit a rather arduous task. The master cylinders were attached to the hard tubing with rubber tubing that would allow the move.
Bill
The problem is just an exercise in how to hook the pedal box up and get it to move in a frame arrangement. The originals had several mounting holes in a bracket and the pedal box. That allowed the owner to move the box fore and aft as they needed it, albeit a rather arduous task. The master cylinders were attached to the hard tubing with rubber tubing that would allow the move.
Bill
Bill,
Thanks for clearing that up. I suspected there was a system in place to move these pedals. I wonder if there was problems with pressure differences between the rubber hoses and the hard lines.
Thanks for the response. This is why this is the greatest forum on the planet...a lot of really smart and knowledgable guys.
Garry
Thanks for clearing that up. I suspected there was a system in place to move these pedals. I wonder if there was problems with pressure differences between the rubber hoses and the hard lines.
Thanks for the response. This is why this is the greatest forum on the planet...a lot of really smart and knowledgable guys.
Garry
Garry,
I suspect these are the same as in your everyday auto that uses the rubber lines that run to the calipers. They may be slightly larger to allow a more rapid response. I am sure one of the original gurus could enlighten us. This is one of the road cars that was produced in '66.
Bill
I suspect these are the same as in your everyday auto that uses the rubber lines that run to the calipers. They may be slightly larger to allow a more rapid response. I am sure one of the original gurus could enlighten us. This is one of the road cars that was produced in '66.
Bill
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Bill,
In your photo the "speedo cable" highlighted is actually the throttle cable.
Those hoses were standard woven finish rubber Lockheed hoses 11" long. These days most of them have been upgraded and changed out for the stainless braided type.
People are buying these old hoses to be authentic but personally I don't trust them.
In your photo the "speedo cable" highlighted is actually the throttle cable.
Those hoses were standard woven finish rubber Lockheed hoses 11" long. These days most of them have been upgraded and changed out for the stainless braided type.
People are buying these old hoses to be authentic but personally I don't trust them.
Jimmy Mac,
You are absolutely correct. I mislabeled the throttle cable. It could never be the speedo unit. What would it be measuring, the speed of the pressing of the accellerator pedal???
Bill
You are absolutely correct. I mislabeled the throttle cable. It could never be the speedo unit. What would it be measuring, the speed of the pressing of the accellerator pedal???
Bill
Eric you could use seat track to mount the pedal box on.
Forget the longer push rod the master cylinders should be mounted to the box.
Jim
Similar threads
