Chevron B16 Replica

A

David Sturch

I decided to start a new thread for the B16. I am close to starting the chassis for the car. I am just about done the molds for the car, The rear clip is all I have left. I am also pulling parts as the molds are done after prep. They are in black gelcoat, 3 layers of 1.5oz roving. For the Admin guys I am not a reseller and am hoping Fran will join the cause in the future now there is some half decent bodywork and If I can get some DOT glass done soon. The car I will be building will be LHD 2 Up Road car on a getrag 016 transaxle RCR cable shift mated to an Pontiac 90 2.3 Quad 4 HO (190HP+) ExtrudaBody Fuel injection on a DCOE intake. I will be using Cortina MkII front Uprights Momba Motorsports rear. I may change the fronts to the Racelead Uprights from MVR and to pins instead of ball joints like the original car setup.They come with the steering arms and look close to the original Chrevon(RTM) uprights and mate to the Cortina rack. I would like to thank all the guys and vendors that helped me out because unless you own one or have one for reference the info on this car is hard to get. I will post a few pics of the parts I have already.
Dave
 

Attachments

A

David Sturch

I will Marcus the Quad 4 to the Getrag will be interesting because I don't think anyone has done it before, I know you can get the newer Getrags mated to a Ecotec or a Duratec. This setup is offered already Mamba Motorsports. I am going with the Quad 4 because they are plentful , inexpensive lots of trick parts and I am a retired GM guy. I know they built the Quad 4 in Germany also, it may be labled as an Opel engine. Some sites- Quads4Rods,Mantapart and Extrudabody Just google the names.
Dave
 
R

kiwi ka

Hi there, If you are using the Cortina fronts then I have a drawing for new hubs that are set up to take a Willwood 12inch vented disc plus a change in off set to reduce the scrub radius. These could be drilled to what ever stud pattern you need.
 
A

David Sturch

Russell I have been following your build for several months. The Uprights you have could be used. The rotor setup I selected was to accept a 13" wheel like the original and the M16 Powerlite caliper which is available in the U.S. now. I could have gone with rotors with top hats but for a street car it adds that much more to the cost. I am trying to stay with a FF 1600-2000 setup. The four bolt alloy hubs are Ford 108PCD as for the rears. I could send you a list of what I am using if you wished to adapt your front upright to it.
Dave
 
R

kiwi ka

Many thanks Dave but have spent much time and `money` getting to this stage and so far it all appears fine.
Cheers Russell
 
A

David Sturch

Russell,
Wilwood does make a 10.5" rotor for top hat which would be very close to what you are using and may work with the M16 setup on your upright. The hub setup I have is the same as yours only the four bolt pattern and not the five that you are running. There have been a few Kiwi's taking to me about body work in the future. I think they would rather source parts from home. I will post allthe spec's for the parts I am using in the next few days.
Dave
 
C

Chris Martino

Dave - Looks like a unique project, would be interested in seeing your build in the flesh. The offer goes out to you if you are interested in the GT.

I'm just 15 minutes east of Oshawa.


Chris
 
A

David Sturch

Keith,
Right now I have a low output Quad 4. It is rated at 150 HP. I am going to covert it to HO which means an HO head which I have and the pistons. The stock engine in this configeration(HO) is 185 HP. This head was developed by Cosworth and the piston are 10:1. Larger valves wilder cams. I also have DCOE intake that I am going to run the fuel injection on. I looked at Jenvy, TCM ,and decided to run Extrudabody. When I am done it should be close to 200HP. I should be fairly quick. I will race you to the gas station.
 
A

David Sturch

Chris,
I used to live in Newcastle. Send me an e-mail and I will get in contact. I will show you what I have. I also have some Engineering students at U of T that worked on the Solar Racer going to do up some drawings of my chassis for me when I get to that stage.
Dave
 
K

Keith

Moderator
A-tomic said:
Keith,
Right now I have a low output Quad 4. It is rated at 150 HP. I am going to covert it to HO which means an HO head which I have and the pistons. The stock engine in this configeration(HO) is 185 HP. This head was developed by Cosworth and the piston are 10:1. Larger valves wilder cams. I also have DCOE intake that I am going to run the fuel injection on. I looked at Jenvy, TCM ,and decided to run Extrudabody. When I am done it should be close to 200HP. I should be fairly quick. I will race you to the gas station.
Click to expand...

Ha ha - you will win, no doubt about it.... :D

Having looked up some history on these motors I think you are a brave man...but I would be interested to know how you solve the inherent balance problems without shafts...
 
A

David Sturch

The head gasket problem is solved I will still have the head magnafluxed they were prone to cracking in the combustion chamber. The newer engines 2.4 solved alot of these problems except the counter balance but they did run smoother. Keith if you want to buy me a new Zetec I will pay the shipping. We can mate it to a Wiessman 6 speed with pneumatic shift. It would be a nice highway crusier.
Dave
 
R

kiwi ka

David
The Willwoods are 12 1/2 inch units and as I had yet to buy the front wheels, drilled the hubs the same Audi patern as the rear. We had a B16 down here in NZ last year and that was running a BMW 2 litre and was very quick with a great sound. I will dig out a couple of pictures.
 
R

Russ Noble

GT40s Supporter
Lifetime Supporter
Good pics Russell.

All the guys building rod shifts, look at this McLaren solution for simplicity and effectiveness!

Presumably mounted with a spherical bearing in that front pivot. A short anchored inner shaft that engages the bottom of the lever and transfers fore/aft motion to the outer sleeve (gearchange rod) which slides back and forth on the shaft and the whole assembly rotates in the spherical bearing.

I've seen a lot of good and simple race car setups but I think this one has to be the best! Simple, easy to build, light. What else is there!

Thanks Russell
 
A

David Sturch

russel K
The car in the pictures looks like a B19. I was looking at the mounting points for the upper control arms and it's a different setup. I also have to run the remote resevoirs on the brake cylinders. The two cars are basicly the same one has open cockpit and different bodywork. A GT 40 killer would be the B8 with the Repco V8. The B16 ran Cosworth Fords, BMW M10 M12 and Mazda R12- 1600 to 2.2 L. I am going to use the cable type shift and mount it on a raised console between the seats. I am doing the car LH drive.
Dave
 
R

kiwi ka

Russ
Talking of gear shifts, I was at the wreckers looking for my elusive remote fluid bottles when I spotted a manual Audi still with its gear box and changer, so I promptly wipped out the changer and gave it a new home. I have already built a set up the same / similar to the Mclaren how ever I may use the AUDI unit as it gives me a reverse lock out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top