Chevron B16 Replica

This is the remote clutch fluid bottle that I am looking for. Silly me found one on my first visit and when I got it home found that it would be perfect for all three master cylinders mounted on the front bulk head. When I went back to see what model Toyota? it was gone. I proceeded to lift more than 250 bonnets that day and nowt. Any clues any body.
Cheers Russell
 

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Russell
Here is a parts list of what I am using so far. I am just getting my garage in order so I can get a table set up to start on the chassis. I also ordered a new set of front Cortina uprights from GTM tuning in the UK. These come with the steering arms to mate to my Escort rack that arrived today.
Rotors
-Delta/AP Front Vented BG2335 245X20 mm These are Dephi Europe(France)
Rear Solid BG2052 247.5X10mm
Calipers
Front M16 Powerlite 120-8279 M16 (Wilwood)
Rear w/ Handbrake 120-8724HB

also Outlaw Front 170-4315 (Outlaw)

M/Cyl
Front 0.625
Rear H/B 0.625
wo/H/B 0.70

Hub Alloy Cortina 108 PCD
Rear Ford Sierra Hub 108 PCD on Sierra shafts
Dave
 
Russell,
Rack 81-90 Ford Escort Topaz EXP (560610) One piece alloy manual rack with TRW gear set.
The Sierra rack will also work and you guys that race this can be modified wth Quaife rack and pinion gear set.
Dave
 
Dave
I have used an Escort rack, highly modified... I was given a quick rack so had a new shaft cut for it with the correct length and set to fit Mazda tie rods. I had to lengthen the tube and then set it up resulting in supposidly the correct bump steer measurements. It only cost $120.00 to cut the new longer rack which fits the standard quick rack pinion.
Cheers
 
Just an update. Welder is up and running tubing bender and dies on there way notcher next. I have a metal platform that I am going to adapt for a chassis table and add adjustable casters so it will also roll and also level. I just have to pick it up. Drill press mounted to the floor grinder also. The only thing I need now is a larger garage with heat. I guess this is what it is all about. (printed with permission Zul Racing)
 

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Well my tubing bender arrived today, put it together and now I have to fabricate spacers for the backing dies(Block). Now I am making tools for tools. I will dig into my DOM tubing fire up the chop saw and make all of them up. Hopefuly I will start on the radius for the side pods in .5" square DOM and .5" round for the lower door hinges. I will keep you posted.
Dave
 
Hi there. Spotted this last week end at the Tasman Revival meeting where they had 18 Formula 5000`s and 34 Formula Juniors running. The FJ were celebrating 40 years.
The Chevron is a true classic as it took 37 years to complete being fully documented authenticated as to its construction period. The car is a credit to the constructors as the workmanship is faultless and was very quick.
 

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Russ Noble

GT40s Supporter
Lifetime Supporter
That lovely little B16 was at the Ruapuna round of SFOS today running with the CanAm cars. Beautiful wee car and very fast.

I was talking to Murray Sinclair (owner/driver) and was told the story that in 1975 the original owner wanted to buy a new B16 from Chevron. By 1975 a 1970 Chevron was an obsolete race car and the factory weren't interested but they offered to sell him a body. They also offered to sell him a set of plans for, get this, thirty five quid (or about $US70) on the understanding that he only built one car. The car is regarded as the last B16 to come from Chevron although in fact it was completely fabricated here in NZ at Darfield near Christchurch and has supporting FIA papers.

It is 100% nut and bolt period accurate and one of the reasons for the long gestation period was finding the dead accurate parts to finish it. e.g. the original carbs on the BMW as fitted to the Chevron were 48DCOE's, as scarce as rockinghorse shit, also the FT200 trans they used was a rare early model which had a different housing, also virtually unobtainable. It is correctly fitted with both these items.

Absolutely beautiful car and a credit to the local guys who built it.
 
Russ,
Look's good, now you have seen one close up. I could not afford to build a true race version. I'll stick to the road car. I wish I had one for reference. I do have the chassis plans, but control arms specs and upright heights would help. I would like to keep the suspension geometry as close as possible to adapt what I am using. I can get them from the US just more money. I will leave the race versions to Vin Malkie and Chris Smith. Right now I am looking at some 3Pc Compomotives so I have something to roll it on hopefuly by this time next year. Just a hint get yourself a B34 and most of your suspension is solved should you wish to do one of these cars.
Dave
 
Marauder Cars Information,
I'm looking for info for Jim in the US on the car that Randy Berry owned. It is one of the original 23 B16 Coupes and my bodywork was made from it. He wants any info on the Marauder B16 and the car from the time period when Randy owned it. Contact me through the site and I will relay it to Jim.
Dave
 

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The latest aquisition and project. They will have to be Media blasted (centers) magnafluxed and chromated.
Sorry guys the picture of my Compomotives does not want to take.
Dave
 
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Brian Hamilton

I'm on the verge of touching myself inappropriatel
Nice build, beautiful car!! Keep us current, I love watching these scrap builds. You have major talent sir!!
 
Not much scrap used here most of the parts are new or will be fabricated. The engine and transaxle (Used)will be rebuilt. The wheels are used and no longer made. I can't find a 13" 3 piece in North America, The max size I would use on this car would be 15" and it would be easier to find tires and I could push the tire width.
Dave
 

Brian Hamilton

I'm on the verge of touching myself inappropriatel
Haha, I meant SCRATCH build not scrap build. That's what I get when I don't proof read my posts. SCRATCH built cars are awesome, really shows the inginuity and devotion of the builder. I'd love to see your skills on the chassis build, that's where you can go crazy and make small improvements that no one will really see. Keep up the good work!
 
Jongbloed Wheels had quite a good write up on care /protection of Mag/Alloy wheels etc with what types of paint to use etc, dont know if they have it on web-site- PM if you need it & I will Email the article.

Jac Mac
 
Jac Mac,
I have a writeup from Compomotive UK for the care of the wheels. I have not received the wheels as of yet they were just shipped. I am going to media blast the centers with Aluminum Oxide 220 grit(only media recomended) with a small hand held sand baster I have. I am using the finer stuff so I don't degrade the casting. I have a Magnaflux kit to check for cracks then chromate. My main concern was that the wheel centers were not bent in any way. I can repair cracks and chips and build up areas with tig and remachine but bent castings are scrap in my book. I also have some spare rims from e-bay UK that I purchased. I will make up some nylon tools to clean up any of the rims.(respin would be best) What I would like to know is do I need some type of sealant for the rim halves. I will also see what shape the nuts and bolts are in and either replace them or tumble them in a cleaner and have them cad/plated. As for paint I like powder coating and may use that for the wheel centers after I am happy how they turn out. I don't like using powder for chassis or suspension arms because of the elasticty of the paint too hard to detect cracks or flaws.
Dave
 
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