Chevron B16 Replica

Russel, alias Kiwi Ka. mate any chance of catching up with you in some way, I,m in Feilding, 200 yards from Manfeild
cheers John
Any time you would like to call, be glad to have a chat 09 479 3385 is my home number. Just waiting for my short block and heads to come back then we can throw it all back in the car and make some noise.
Wheels have arrived. These are the older Compomotive CX style 13 X 8.5" rear 13 X 6.5" fronts. I have some more outer and inners spares coming from the UK. Fresh plated bolts washers and ovallock nuts.
Also my new front uprights have arrived this all sitting on my chassis table. Chassis work to commence soon.


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Few pics of the bottom section of the chassis with a few more welds and two trailing arm mounts to add at the rear and a cockpit nose section at the front. Then I am going up, side pods, dash section and rear shock mounts and braces. I will add the upper and lower control arm mounts to the shock towers first then weld on the rear.


Here are a few more pics of the progress so far. As you can see from some of the previous pics in the series a few changes have been made. The drawings I have are 40 years old and a condensed version (4 pages)of the originals(probably12 pages) at 1/3 the original scale. They are also 2D and overhead and side view. One rear view less rear suspension and one front view less front bolt on section. I would be further ahead but I am waiting on some bushings for the suspension mounts I am having made up. Looks like I will be making up body tabs in the meanwhile. Also please excuse the mess, working in a shoebox means to clean up regularly.


Heres the latest update. Front firewall less bushings(still waiting) for lower control arms and shocks. Upper control arms mounts in. Hope to have the front done by the end of the week and I will start on the rear suspension towers and the next level up braces and supports. The side pods will be left for last. I can stand the chassis on its side to reach the underside for welding the way it is now.


Fran I posted that one yesterday in the paddock. That's a Chris Smith/Kelvin Jones MotorSports special. Chris Smith bought all the drawings off Roger Andreason last year. Kelvin has preped alot of Chevrons and is building for Chris. The price makes the Superlite Coupe a bargain eh.

Fran Hall RCR

GT40s Sponsor
Sorry Dave,
I did not realise you had posted I dont have time to follow the forum that closely at the moment...busy building SL-C's ...wink
Ch-Ch-Ch-Changes,(Bowie Man) just an update. I cut the kickpads out of the cockpit section to fit it to what I had done so far. The kickpads are glued in after the final assembly, but the bodywork I purchased they were bonded in already. They attach to dash section on the inside of each door and cover the braces. The front section was too wide and not high enough. It was the same rear firewall section. So far I have the rear firewall section correct, I will add the recievers for the roll hoop and I will correct the front end as per fitment of the body. Look's like this will be a refference chassis and when I get it done I will start a fresh one and use that for my build.
Corrections to the front end done. As you can see by the fitment of the cockpit section. I left a little bit of space for alignment of the body and there is also the panning to account for. time to get back to where I was before.


David S
Nice job!
word of caution/advice (fwiw) on the link mount tabs on the rear frame. The lower ones on real Chevrons crack from slight impact situations. I.e.- pot holes, bad bumps, etc. My brother has a B-23 (bmw M-12 power) and the tabs cracked on it. Suggest you make yours slightly thicker if you are using spherical bearings ala race cars.

Following your progress and it is inspiring!! Now you've given me something to think about building. You've made it look easy
I was thinking of doing them the same as the top mounts instead of the two tabs inboard on the bottom, 3/8 bushing with brace on top. The problem of doing my way means a jig with pins to make sure of proper alignment when welding. This chassis will be for reference only. I am going to order new steel thinner wall and the same diameters as the original. I am going to gas weld with nickle-bronze rod instead of tig. I can't get consistantly good enough welds with the welder I am using(no pedal DC air cooled). I can control the heat better with gas and get a nicer looking weld.
The gas weld with that rod is surely a nice way to go, given the other limitations. It won't be brittle and the penetration will be decent. Your idea of a braced bushing will be sufficient, I'm sure.

You really got me thinking of building a race version with a built 13B rotary. A properly set up mazda will put out just as much hp as the ford or bmw units. Where did you get the plans for the chassis? would you be willing to sell me a set? Sell me a body? the molds and parts look pretty nice. You can contact me at [email protected] to keep this part private.

As a street car, your b-16 quad 4 will be a blast. Just be careful of those suv's and pick up trucks! The Swenson brothers (PBS Engineering- big Fiat Abarth guys in the 60's/70's ) built sports racers based on small displacement fiat mills. One of the coupes was used as a street car, very similar in size/ shape to the B16. It was totally dwarfed by a datsun 510 ! At 800 lbs, 50 mpg was the norm with close to 120 mph top speed
Hello Dave,

You mentioned early on some front uprights "Racelead by MVR"

I am not familiar with these, and i am curious. Any more info available?