Classic HorsePower Scratch GT40

[Devin]

Not a lot of pics & visible progress since my last update. However, it was time to finalize AC hose fittings and lengths as well as crimping them in final form. Made the drier bracket and installed onto the front RH side panel after checking clearances and hose routing. Awaiting for the engine to be placed back into the car for the last two hoses from the rear bulkhead to the compressor.

Also spent time repositioning the rear clamshell now that the ride height and wheel alignment was mostly finalized. I found that I need to lower the back of the shell about 5/8” to make things line up better and more level/ reduce fender gap over the rear tire. While doing this work I snapped a good pic with how the underside is super flat and smooth. I do have plans for a full covered pan with removable front and rear sections and possible rear diffuser.

Also most recent work was on the cardboard mockup of the inner rear wheel well liners before fabrication and fiberglass into place. My biggest concern was leaving enough room for the bundle of snakes and best direct airflow for the side scoops to provide flow to the rear openings.

 

[Devin]

Jumping around various tasks lately. Today’s effort was starting on the center console & tunnel cover. Figured I needed to get the electrical cutoff switch location finalized and how all the remaining system cables, hoses and wires will be routed and secured in the footwells.

 

[Devin]

Almost a month since my last update…life gets in the way sometimes. Just been working (again) on getting the spider bodywork closer to a “finished” status enough to mount hopefully for the last time. It needs more work with another coat of sandable primer before the final black on the inside is the goal before mounting. I would have loved just buying a spider and windshield ready to go however I knew that even that would have required many hours of work as well to mount my existing clamshells and then the challenge of doors as well. It is what it is.

 

[Devin]

Finally had a half day to get back to the build. After spraying some more black on the underside of the spider a couple weeks ago, it was time to remount it for some final placement work of the doors and clamshells. The next time it gets lifted (hopefully front only) will be to seal it to the cowl.

Man has it has been hot in Texas the last couple weeks!

 

[Devin]

Been working on the “final” bolting down of the spider rear base, door gap/hinges, clamshells and sill adjustments. Need to start work on the door strikers and clamshell alignment pins soon.

 

[Devin]

After getting the lower door fit to the 98% solution, I am doing the initial layup to the upper door section (outer skin only). Looks like the rear portion will mount almost directly to the lower door section and I will have to split the top portion of the lower door to raise it about 1/2” (13mm) to raise the front top to be level and meet the style line that extends from the bottom corner of the windscreen. I will also need to split the back corners of the front clamshell that extends above the door. Essentially I have the challenge of making these (driver & passenger sides) four corner junction area into a seemless and naturally flowing area…all while making it look as close to original as I can.

What are folks thoughts of adding a steel reinforcement brace into the door (from hinge to latch while I’m splitting the door open? Opinions on the effort involved and if one can really make a safe difference a potential impact?

 

[Douglas]

Well, it is official, I have zero reasons to get aggravated by the adjustments I am having to do to make my body parts align and fit.

 

[joe]

That's what I was thinking as well! The question I keep asking myself as I fiddle with body panels is: When do I just start cutting and grinding.

 

[Ian Anderson]

Pit your windscreen in the hole and hold in place with tape. It makes sure it will fit once you make any other adjustments.

 

[Devin]

Pit your windscreen in the hole and hold in place with tape. It makes sure it will fit once you make any other adjustments.

You are ahead of me…my very next thought! If it fits as expected (and as before) I may very well seal and rivet it down to the cowl after one more windscreen fit.

Well, it is official, I have zero reasons to get aggravated by the adjustments I am having to do to make my body parts align and fit.

You are right…I would have love to just make “adjustments” At times instead of essentially making the whole part, but what’s the “fun” in that?!?

 

[Devin]

Pit your windscreen in the hole and hold in place with tape. It makes sure it will fit once you make any other adjustments.

The one thing I did do today. Since the A
Pillars and substructure is made in steel, I didn’t expect it to change fitment (it didn’t). The glass has about 1/8-3/16” gap around the edges.

Rubber edge moulding or not? The great debate.

 

[joe]

Did you use nutserts in the fiberglass for your headlight covers?

 

[Devin]

Did you use nutserts in the fiberglass for your headlight covers?

I haven’t got to that just yet…what you see is the previous owners effort at their attempt to secure poorly made covers. I have filled the old holes with resin and will fix them better during the bodywork phase of the front clam. Not sure how I will end up securing my properly formed covers, so am looking at best practices for these and the side windows.

 

[Devin]

Did the splits today.

Hard to comprehend how low this thing is until it is side by side with the Cobra.

 

[Jean-Marc]

impressive work on this door

 

[Devin]

Yeah!! I have a complete (looking) door! Unfortunately there is a ton of work yet to make it a finished & completely functional (and mostly weather tight) door. This was my #1 concern when starting this entire scratch build…the doors. I will most likely pursue one at a time and learn the process on the passenger door before starting the drivers (LHD) door. The hinge and latch are mostly complete with the except of the door post/striker and may pursue that in conjunction with the interior upper panel.

On a separate note…I found some vintage aircraft mirrors, not unlike my former mistress from my military aviation days flying the Bone. This pair of canopy mirrors will be mounted on the inside corners of the doors. Front some initial test fitting they will serve the purpose of blind spot and side rear view and plan on a rear view camera in place of the center mounted rear mirror.

 

[Kyle]

Hopefully you can get access to the inside of the door to tab it in. Then go back to the outside and grind off all that gel coat at least 3-4in on either side and bevel the fiberglass some, then lay your fiberglass down in successive widths.

 

[Devin]

Hopefully you can get access to the inside of the door to tab it in. Then go back to the outside and grind off all that gel coat at least 3-4in on either side and bevel the fiberglass some, then lay your fiberglass down in successive widths.

Thanks for the great advice Kyle. I can definitely get to the backside and will grind off more taper on both sides and lay a couple successive layers of mat and epoxy. I was also just researching gelcoat and opinions/methods of applying that once it’s perfected in final form.

I also have to plan and foam & shape the interior side of this skin as well as a layup over that when it’s in the proper form. Lots of work x2. I am no expert on fiberglass work to this extent so you all please keep the support coming! I do appreciate each one of you.

 

[Devin]

The splicing and dicing continues, more mending to go as well as foam shaping to finish the upper inner structure.

Swings effortlessly & aligns consistently. Now it’s on to trimming the roof gaps and figuring how to shape/contain the expanding spray foam.

 

[Devin]

Refined some of the door splice with my inline sander and door top/ roof gaps with my 4” angle grinder today. Then came part 2 to the Frankenstein chapter of making the front clam fit the door & windscreen portion of the spider. After some thought and a strategically placed line, the clam extension was liberated from its misaligned position.

During the liberation, a stress crack was uncovered and will be dealt with during the final bodywork. Using some scrap aluminum strips secured with self-tapping screws helped to keep things in place for the initial relocation & repair of the clam extension.

First application of the bonding epoxy mix and initial fiberglass matting secured the old piece into its best aligned position. There will be additional door gap corrections needed on both the clam extension & door itself.