Custom transaxle

Just to address some concerns with over bending the dog rings, the top sift rod has stops at both ends of the travel so you can't over exert pressure on the rings or other parts. The only concern with that is if you are a Gorilla you could smash the back out of the housing so some responsibility is on the driver to treat it with some care.
 
The Shift rods slide in a Steel guide that has oil holes drilled in their length, the top shifter rod has bronze bushes at each end. I thought about the bending of the rods as well, they are made of Chrome moly and the tongues are made of stainless and at full travel they only stick out from the guide 15mm and they are 9/16" dia so I don't think there will be too much bending. I have no doubt there will be some teething issues with this first one, just hoping they will be minor. Bottom line is, its finished, it seems to work and it looks right which is a lot further than any other Transaxle build that I've seen on this site. As for the quality of the castings that will improve even more in the next ones as I will be fettling the pattern more to get an even better result and ***I'm going to address the concerns of the tongue length by moving the rails a little higher.****

Moving the shifter rails higher would make the situation worse, all you should need is shorten each of the 3 lower rail tongue receivers down as close as possible to the rails/shafts c/l ( or even on c/l with a minor rethink) and then lower the single shifter tongue shaft c/l down by a similar amount, this would remove any bending load imparted to the shifter rails by the external shifter action.
With regard to your comment in post 282 with a dog face like jerico use you can get a situation where the slider dog face can strike the dog ring face at mid shift, this tends to happen more when drivers 'baby' the shift or use too much clutch, has nothing to do with over shifting.
 
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What I was thinking with moving the rails up was that the tongues would be shorter I need the tongue on the external rail to be long, if it is short then the arc at the lever would be wide and that is not desirable
 
If you move the rails up you must end up with longer selector forks inside which builds more friction., Just shorten the lower 3 tongues and lengthen the upper one should acheive the shorter arc at the same time, could narrow down width of the lower three and the upper by a similar amount to narrow that arc even further if desired.The tip on the upper tongue should also be re-aligned/rotated 90°, less likely to fail like that as major forces are fwd/aft, not across the gate.
 
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Looks very good you will get all of the bugs worked out my hat is off to you this is a very hard project point in case how many options are out there period and especially from a private individual ! Be proud!
 
I'm listening to you Jac, I'm hoping to ship it today but will look at the tongues before it goes. I know what you are saying about the tongue tip being rotated but room is an issue but will have a quick rethink before it gets boxed up for shipping. I'm sure John won't mind another day if it cures a potential problem before it begins.

Cheers Leon
 
For sure mate, I would much prefer you to be 100% happy with it before you ship, another day or two wont hurt.
cheers John
 

Kelly

Lifetime Supporter
Looks very good you will get all of the bugs worked out my hat is off to you this is a very hard project point in case how many options are out there period and especially from a private individual ! Be proud!

Indeed, result so far looks great and hopefully will perform equally well, not to mention the perseverance considering Post number one's date. Well done Leon.

Best,
Kelly
 
Hi John, shipped today, Changed the tongues so hope its a little better long term.
Thanks Kelly there are a few people hoping it performs as good as it looks.
Some photos of the re-configured tongues are attached
 

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Leon I think long term that will be better! 300m would work if you have any failures I have also used spring steel out of big truck leaf springs to make things that have to be tough.
 
Aaahhh !!! I work for a large trucking company, good thinking. I have finished the front uprights and will be getting into the rears asap. I now have 4 days 4 nights work and then off for 4 days so will get it all finished then. Udo sent me the PCD info for the 934 CVs are you wanting to go that way? if so then I will get a firm price and you can decide. I think I will start a separate thread for the uprights.

Cheers Leon
 
Absolutely amazing job and very nice concept - looks great for the Can Ams - very authentic. One small request if I may - sideplates with mounting ears would make application quite versatile. Does the box also have mounting points at the bottom ?

Keep up the great work !
 
Hi Wolf, thanks for the positive comments, I can easily add some mounting ears and have thought about it a couple of times, may do it for the next one and yes it has mounting points on the bottom if you look you will see 2 bosses cast in and they are drilled and tapped

Cheers Leon
 
Hello guys, been quite a while since I last posted on this and we all know that there has been some problems with the trans that is in Aussie. I don't see them as failures as much as teething problems, I still believe the design is good it just needed development which is hard when I'm in another country. Anyway I'm still pressing on with the earlier housing that was made. I have changed the R&P to a Winters mounted on a Nissan R centre section, using the Winters R&P gives me the Zero hypoid so I can clear the diff easily. I'm using a Nissan gear set as well and have used a new method to connect the pinion to the main shaft there is NO spines with a nut to hold it on!! There are no mods to the R&P at all so replacement is off the shelf purchase. I will put up some photos as I progress. Cheers Leon.
 
{Hello guys, been quite a while since I last posted on this and we all know that there has been some problems with the trans that is in Aussie. I don't see them as failures as much as teething problems, }

Leon may i suggest you let everybody no what these "teething" problems were, with both the T/A and the rear uprights., because quite frankly if you dont, i will, and as you are well aware none of it was very pretty, .and some very ordinary engineering and machining practices.

cheers John
 
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