Darrin's MMR BOSS based GT40

[Bill Musarra]

Budget,,,, did you say Budget..... Surely you are kidding. I had a budget for at least 6 months(out of 11 years), I thought I was doing good. Then came to realize teenagers(and what they can get into), and budgets don't mix well. So I worked on it when I could or when I felt I had enough to buy something, without cutting into the rest of the family money. Do like I did, and work a lot of overtime. Then you won't have time to work on it much, and when you do you can splurge with all the cash you accumulated!!!

Bill

 

[Jason Ferraro]

Darren the budget building these cars is a funny topic. My financial manager (wife) requested me to run an Excel list on every dollar what it was and when it was paid for. Separate one for tools. After milling machines, lathes etc. and a nearly complete car holy crap! Budget blown by a crap load!

Just build them and DO NOT track cost. Just spend what you can to get it to a level you are happy with.

 

[Nick]

Darrin, think we have all been in your situation at some point, from my own personnel experience I fired up my engine last week and it gave me a real big boost to get it finished.


Regarding a budget, my biggest concern is if I go before my wife she will sell my accumulated cars and Automobilia for what I told her I paid for them.

 

[Darrin]

Thanks again guys. More tweaks to the mounts were needed but now all is good with them. The engine is back out of the car so the final wiring can be done then it will go back in "permanently" (I hope).

I hear you all about budget. I was looking at the cobalt drill bits alone I've accumulated and calculating the cost versus what I "budgeted"...it's about 10 to 1...so far. LOL

 

[Bill Musarra]

Darrin,
Just gotta start thinking economically. Then you can save your money for the really important things.http://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqn2VPGYA9c

Bill

 

[Peter G-Pete Fritsche]

Darrin, just come on out on the 3rd sat of October and will cheer you up!

Bill, the link is broken...

 

[Peter G-Pete Fritsche]

Darrin...

 

[Darrin]

Well, a CAD drawing, third party fabrication, several tweaks locally and then final welding, and the mounts are done and installed along with the engine.

Now it's a bundle of wires and header fabrication to contend with. Mandrel bends are in. Guess that's next then.

 

[Jack]

oooh, Ahhh

 

[Bill Musarra]

Sorry I posted the link incorrectly. Have a habit of not removing the first http when I post videos.
Darrin you need to stop buying cobalt drill bits. The coating is nocked off after the first couple of uses or when you attempt to sharpen it. Just get one set of high speed bits and follow the technique in the video. It is easier than you think and it last for the length of the drill bit, which is long after I am gone from GT 40 land. Here is the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqn2VPGYA9c

Bill

 

[Darrin]

Thanks Bill! I thought Cobalt bits were made largely of cobalt where as the titanium ones were just coated (and pretty much the same as HSS).

Although I've broken several, I used two or three cobalt bits to drill well over 1,000 holes into my chassis for the paneling. One is still good...one broke...and the other it just a bit dull now.

 

[Bill Musarra]

Guess I stand corrected. Glad mine was steel framed. Ripped out the steel panels and welded stainless in their place

Bill

 

[Randy V]

Interesting link on Cobalt Drill bits--
What are cobalt drill bits? - HowStuffWorks

Cobalt drill bits are not made of pure cobalt, but rather a steel alloy with 5 to 8 percent cobalt. The 5-percent alloy is known as M35 grade, and the 8-percent alloy is M42.

 

[Darrin]

Engine in place. Working on fabricating the headers now. Just finished up the intake setup sans one hose clamp I have on order. Had to hand fabricate it. Not the most beautiful thing, but it should perform very well albeit it might be a bit noisy.

 

[Darrin]

Headers are now being TIG welded. Here they are tacked up. Took a very long time to complete them. After the welding, they will go get ceramic coated, then wrapped (in Ford Blue).

They ended up being 1-7/8" mandrel bent primaries going to a collector that necks to 2.75" and then expands out to about 3.25" (a venture). I'm working on the exhaust now. It will be using a custom built X-pipe muffler short enough to fit.

Shout out to A&E Automotive who really, really, came though and helped out with the fabrication of the headers and will be welding them up.

 

[Dave]

Good to hear Eric is doing the right thing now.....

 

[Darrin]

While the headers are being welded, I thought I'd mock some things up to see how things fit. Looks likes there is just enough room for the X-pipe muffler.

The engine and transaxle ended up being lowered about 1/2" to get it to fit. I'm planning to relocate the oil cooler to the left (driver's side here in the US) of the intake where others have done to reduce the line length 30% or more. Will probably route the right side vent to a yet to be fabricated air box and the left side to the oil cooler.

 

[Peter G-Pete Fritsche]

Darrin, how about to split the intake in two - reroute under the hatch glass and get dense air and not air from the hottest spot....

(I know you have plenty on your plate - but that gives you a few ponies more and a better gas mileage) :idea:

 

[Darrin]

Darrin, how about to split the intake in two - reroute under the hatch glass and get dense air and not air from the hottest spot....

(I know you have plenty on your plate - but that gives you a few ponies more and a better gas mileage) :idea:

I have thought about this, or just routing to one side (once I move the oil cooler to the rear, the passenger side right behind the inlet vent is WIDE open and could make a great spot).

I'm debating between doing one of those options (split, or to the passenger side) or just doing some duct work to route air in from the side vents into an air box that will have the top and sides mounted onto the rear clam shell and the bottom under the intake.

Either way a good bit of work, but I'm thinking this would be the easier to do and get the correct data to the computer from the single MAF sensor.

 

[Darrin]

Headers back from the ceramic coating shop. Great result for the money.

Have them wrapped, high temp sealant applied, and ready to install now. They barely fit. Have to insert a couple of the studs into the flange before slide them in due to space limitations.