David's Monocoque Build

If you made it according to the print it will not fit properly. The 3,75" dim needs to be approx 4,06", will have the dimension verified during this week.
 

JimmyMac

Lifetime Supporter
David
Well done and I look forward to your Monday morning posts.

Good advice above. ^
2033 and it's closure piece are one of the the last two assemblies to fit because the final location will depend upon your door striker height so I would not worry about the precision 0.06" for now. (The door striker height depends upon your fibreglass fit )
I would treat this as a trial fit job for later on, before you box up the B-pillar.

We did the same thing.
IMG_2069.jpeg


Same 3.75" piece in 2009
Order 1005 - 7 Mar 2009 009.jpg
 
You need to make a small cutout for the fuelcell flange on the rh one. Probably best to do it when assembling. Can put out the dimension for the cutout if you want it.
 
You need to make a small cutout for the fuel cell flange on the rh one. Probably best to do it when assembling. Can put out the dimension for the cutout if you want it.
That would depend on if you are doing a road car with the battery in the left rear, or if your doing a race car or early prototype, that had fuel cell flanges on both of the sill tops?

Or have I miss understood the statement about the cut out?
I think the drawing is in GT40 Uncovered, if I remember correctly.

Ryan
 
You need to make a small cutout for the fuelcell flange on the rh one. Probably best to do it when assembling. Can put out the dimension for the cutout if you want it.
That would depend on if you are doing a road car with the battery in the left rear, or if your doing a race car or early prototype, that had fuel cell flanges on both of the sill tops?

Or have I miss understood the statement about the cut out?
I think the drawing is in GT40 Uncovered, if I remember correctly.

Ryan
I'll do the cutout closer to assembly time , it's easier to cut out than put back. Dimensions for the cutout would be appreciated.
 
looking great David. Is that just a cold rolled body steel your using? I know it calls out EN2B, but that grade is not readily available in most places.
Have you had to add any heat to get these parts done?
 
looking great David. Is that just a cold rolled body steel your using? I know it calls out EN2B, but that grade is not readily available in most places.
Have you had to add any heat to get these parts done?
I would have to check the bill to be sure but off hand 1018, no heat on 2087-8 or 2051-2.
 
Thanks David.

From the internet....
https://kobelcosteel.com/bs970-specifications-india.html

BS970 - 1955 SPECIFICATIONS
GradeCMnSiCrNiMoS P Others
EN1A0.07/0.150.80/1.200.10 M 0.20/0.300.07
EN1B0.07/0.151.00/1.400.10 M 0.30/0.600.06
EN1AL0.07/0.150.80/1.200.10 M 0.20/0.300.07Pb-0.15/0.35
EN20.20 M0.80 M 0.060.06
EN2A0.12 M0.50 M 0.050.05
EN2A/10.10 M0.50 M 0.040.04
EN2B0.15 M0.50 M 0.050.05

https://www.atlassteels.com.au/documents/7-EngineeringSteelBar.pdf

Grade 1018 is not in AS 1443. Composition limits listed are according to ASTM A29.
GradeC Si Mn
P
S Pb
1018 Min0.15 - 0.60---
1018 Max0.20 0.35 0.90 0.040 0.050-

Its been a long time since I last sat in a materials class and its not an area id stake any credentials on, but my understanding is that the carbon and Manganese are what typically effects strength, the quantities of the other elements are related to workability, weldability and machining conditions.
1018 looks like it should work quite well.

I'm going to have to ask the local suppliers what it is exactly that they have, as its not listed on their web site.
Cheers.
Ryan
 
I am not used to AISI qualities but seems like 1018 has a higher yield than the en2b. Not a bad feature but requires more violence when forming.
The en2b quality is by todays measures one of the lowest qualities of construction steel.
In european standards it is similar to S235.
 
The 20ga 1018 forms very well and works good with MDF , 18ga is good with MDF to a point. When making a hammerform you need to consider any sharp radius that may need some help from the torch and make a steel hammerform.
 

Neil

Supporter
The 20ga 1018 forms very well and works good with MDF , 18ga is good with MDF to a point. When making a hammerform you need to consider any sharp radius that may need some help from the torch and make a steel hammerform.
If you can find that in an "aluminum killed" or "silicon killed" grade, use it. These have good forming and drawing characteristics.
 
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