Dean's GT-R build thread

[Dr. David]

For reference....here is a correct and safe wheel adapter. The center protruding lip is machined to fit the center barrel of the wheel. This takes the load off the wheel studs. Almost all OEM hubs are machined like this.

Thanks for posting this. I noticed it as well and agree. (just my novice opinion).

 

[Dean Lampe]

I will be changing the adapters. I should have known better myself. I'm going to talk to Fran tomorrow and get his thoughts.

I did finish up the A/C lines last night. It was a little more difficult because I chose to use a Ford compressor.



There was also a post last month maybe about some alignment pins between the Graziano and the adapter plate. I checked and mine were missing. Ron McCall hooked me up with a set and I put those in as well. To make the job easier, I ran down the Ace Hardware and bought 4 longer bolts. I simply removed all the other bolts and slid the gearbox back. You can really put those 4 long bolts anywhere other than in the holes at the 1 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions. I put a zip tie around the pin and put it in place. Dropping the pin could make an easy job much much harder!

 

[Dean Lampe]

It is exhaust time! What should we do? I bought those shorty BBK headers that look really cool and they will work but the exhaust will need to run under the axles then back up on top. I found some brake ducting to help with the mock up. Let me know what you thing!









What go you think? There is also not much room on top of the gear box.

 

[Dean Lampe]

Maybe like this.

 

[PaulProe]

Dean
Will the bolt pattern of the flange allow you to mount the header upside down on the opposite side? That would allow tubes to run over top of axle. Just a thought

Paul

 

[Dean Lampe]

No, unfortunately the coyote flanges are not "flipable".

 

[Tom]

is that due to the port shape on the flange? If so, it might possible to test the fit in the upside down direction, and if it is better, cut the flanges off and reweld on the opposite side, assuming the primary isn't dented to match the D port.

I don't have any experience with this, but seems like it would be a good idea to get radiant heat away from the driveshaft and CV joint for a track car. Maybe not a big deal if you don't have to package a catalytic in there.

 

[Scott Davis]

I'm curious about this too. I have the same dilema with the Apex (but appears I can run along the bottom the entire length). But the question for me remains is it better to run closer to the cv joints driveshafts along the bottom or over the axles and above the transaxle away from them. I figured it easier to shield the cv joints and keep more heat out the engine bay and away from the body.

 

[Charlie]

I have read your build threads many times and will continue doing so because of the vast amount of knowledge one gains from not only your experience but those who contribute as well. The work of Fran and his team has raised the bar and the manner they approach to provide a quality product and customer service can only serve the less experienced the "can do" attitude. I thank you Dean for your talents and your willingness to document this build so we may have a quality build that is also safe. Blessings to you an yours.

 

[Dean Lampe]

Changing directions.....

I'm going to bring the exhaust up over the top and return the headers. That's what I really want to do anyway. I felt in my heart that I was taking the easy way out. So I ordered flanges and a bunch of 1 7/8 exhaust bends in mild steel, not coated from Jegs. I thought I could risk this much to see if i can make it work. So here we go!

Let me say it is a very tight fit. I will be adding more heat shielding to the engine and gear box. Here are the pipes just held in place to show the clearance.





I Think it will work. I sat up a little welding shop in my wife's garage so I didn't have to walk out to the shed every time I needed to make a cut or a weld.







It might not look like much but that was a lot of hours of fitting, cutting and tacking! But they fit!

 

[Charlie]

LOOK WHAT THE FRIENDLY UPS DRIVER BROUGHT!!!!!!!!!!

(yes I'm screaming)



This is the new Borla 8 stack for the Coyote. Do you see the Dr. Pepper can? Look at the size of the horns compared to the can! This thing is AWESOME!!rockonsmilerockonsmilerockonsmilerockonsmile

I am sure Jon Kasse Racing Engines uses Borla as well on their P-38 engines.

 

[Dean Lampe]

Exhaust work continues.

Now that I have the flanges and first few segments of pipe tacked together, I am going to position the collector and work back to the primaries.

I am not going to build a true cross over 180 degree system. Instead I'm going to use and x pipe immediately following the collectors. I'm not convinced that my welding and fabrication is up to that challenge and I don't think there will be a noticeable change in performance given my lack of ability to drive this car at the limit anyway.

So I took two pieces of 3 inch bends and built an x pipe. Another first for me but it wasn't to bad. It should really flow!





I'm using the V-band clamps to hold it together. That way I can remove the x pipe and race mufflers and connect real mufflers to run on the street.

 

[mark b.]

Here's a thought Dean. You really don't need to split the exhaust after the merge, usually done to run two exhaust pipes to the exit. I had a car with the 180* headers that ran into a merge into a single exhaust muffler with single exit. I don't know if it was the 180* or merge but it was quiet and sounded really good, got quite a few compliments on the sound of the car. This is pretty close to what I used with a 5" turn out after the muffler.

Muffler, 14" Stainless Steel, Pro-Lite

 

[Troy]

Hi Dean, The build is looking fantastic! :thumbsup: I was wondering if the structure would allow a set of headers with some type of small street or race muffler with an exhaust exit in front of the rear tire as some have done with the SLC? It seems this would alleviate some concern for excessive heat around the axle shafts or the transaxle. If feasible, this might be an option for those with track only cars?

 

[Mesa]

Hey Dean
Looks like some good work going on there, I didn't realize you had posted this much stuff. Gotta catch up at some point. Really too bad there aren't any Ricardos left,eh? Would have made the perfect trans for this engine in this kit.

 

[Charlie]

Maybe like this.

Does this perforated screen come with the package? If not; what are the specification and where purchased?

 

[Dean Lampe]

Troy, there would be room to run the exhaust out the side. You would have to take a different approach to the headers but it might be easier than what I'm doing!

Charlie, The screen in the picture is not from RCR. I wouldn't know where you might find something like that but you can bet it would be pricey!

Mark, I'm not looking for quiet! The exhaust was more about the look I wanted than anything else.

 

[Mike Giblin]

Mesa,
My GTR should arrive next month and I will have a Graz behind a Coyote. The Graz gears are selected to support an 8000 RPM engine, the Ricardo is not.
Just thinkin'
Mike

 

[Mesa]

Interesting point Mike. I was thinking more on the no need for an adapter Ford on Ford part synergy. But since you mention it my Ricardo does seem to have a fairly tall first gear when actually driving the car. Note I have only been able to 'drive' it 200 feet at a crack so far (parking lot). My LS engine is supercharged with a comparably low rpm power curve, so maybe I just lucked out that the Ricardo was the only high torque high HP transaxle at that time.

Dean,
That Coyote is a manly looking hunk and the Borlas on top - a crown jewel. Great looking set up for a proper Ford in the GTR for sure!

 

[Dean Lampe]

Thanks Mesa! As for the gearbox, it is really a none issue just because that's what is available and serviceable. There are gear changes that can be done if someone thought they needed taller gears but I'm going to drive it first and then decide. I hear a lot of theory around here. I would like to get some first hand experience.