drag strip

[dave harris]

you can always do the "cheap fix" we all did back in High School -

drill a hole between the two sandwiching metal parts and the rubber mount (through all 3 parts) and place a long bolt thru it. put a lock nut (nylock) on the bolt but don't tighten it down tight, let it have a 1/2" - 1" gap between the nut and bottom metal plate.

this way, if the mount lets go, the bolt catches everything, but you still have the benefit of rubber mounts if you don't want any potential vibration.

(but with well balanced motors - vibration is usually minimal).

just another option.

Dave Harris

 

[Jack Houpe]

you can always do the "cheap fix" we all did back in High School -

drill a hole between the two sandwiching metal parts and the rubber mount (through all 3 parts) and place a long bolt thru it. put a lock nut (nylock) on the bolt but don't tighten it down tight, let it have a 1/2" - 1" gap between the nut and bottom metal plate.

this way, if the mount lets go, the bolt catches everything, but you still have the benefit of rubber mounts if you don't want any potential vibration.

(but with well balanced motors - vibration is usually minimal).

just another option.

Dave Harris

Dave thats an excellent idea and would work well.

I use to live in Rohnert Park in the 60s then Petaluma before going into the service, its all changed a great deal since then.

 

[DaveM]

Can't tell from the photo, but are we talking rubber motor mounts or urethane? My urethane ones don't seem to move much.

 

[Kirby Schrader]

Can't tell from the photo, but are we talking rubber motor mounts or urethane? My urethane ones don't seem to move much.

I believe they are rubber, but could be wrong.

Of course, just to wind you up... Jack and I might have more HP.
:laugh:

Regards,
Kirby

 

[Jack Houpe]

Mine are urethane, big block chev but I'm certain they have broken loose from the steel plates. I also have a urethane mount just under the transaxle which helps support the transaxle during hard acceleration which are seldom. :laugh:

 

[Bill Musarra]

Jack,
Sounds like you are a fan of flex, with all that movement. Why don't you join those of us with balanced motors. Mine is internal and with solid mounts fore and aft, the torque of the motor when idling makes it more of a dance. It gets a lot of attention at red lights.

Bill

 

[Mike]

Mine shakes plenty at idle too. It's not vibration as much as it is power pulses. If its an easy job I'll just swap in new ones each year to keep it more isolated.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYDQRHreLbM]GT40 - YouTube[/ame]

 

[Jack Houpe]

Jack,
Sounds like you are a fan of flex, with all that movement. Why don't you join those of us with balanced motors. Mine is internal and with solid mounts fore and aft, the torque of the motor when idling makes it more of a dance. It gets a lot of attention at red lights.

Bill

No Bill not a fan flex, I'm going to make mine solid soon as I get my wife's car off the rack. I don't have a problem with balancing or vibration Bill, my mounts are torn loose.

 

[Terry Oxandale]

Based on the amount of engine movement you've described, I believe you'll notice a more pronounced difference in the way the tires grip on takeoff (with the solid mounts). Without the give of the current rubber mounts, the tires no longer see that buffer (i.e. shock absorber) as the torque is applied to the rear tires. Personally, I like the more crisp nature of the solid mounts, but it will drive a little differently.

 

[Ian Anderson]

And
You will probably need to reset a rod gear change
If you get movement at the engine the gearbox is also moving so when you tighten one the other gets "crisper" and more accurate but could in turn mean the gate at the cockpit end is in the wrong place!



Ian

 

[Wally]

I take Dave's fix one step farther and do two 3/8 bolts with shock grommets and the heavy washers for them snugged down that way I don't end up like the Mustang I bought that had solid mounts and pulled the boss off the block ( 351 C ) and also had to repair the frame mount that was tearing off the frame. Most of the FE engine have three bolts on there motor mounts so there more stable so the solid mounts don't stress the block like on the small blocks, Just need to make sure what they attach to is up to the job ( that's why the 427 fairlane has a subframe / engine cradle in it )

 

[Rick]

Jack, this what you have and what you need. Regards, Rick

 

[Jack Houpe]

Jack, this what you have and what you need. Regards, Rick

Big Block Chev?

 

[Rick Muck- Mark IV]

Big Block Chev?

Yup. BB Chevy with an adaptor to the Ford Windsor bracket.

 

[Paul fortin]

Man that is a fast time in a car not set up for it. Grats.

 

[René]

its looking very stable and pretty fast nice.

 

[Darrin]

What engine are you using? I think mid 11s, with how you started out, is pretty good and you could get that down a bit as mentioned here.

BTW, with my gearing, I should just be shifting into 4th at about 120 so I am guessing yours is a bit lower geared than mine (made it so I can go 0-60 in first).

 

[Jack Houpe]

What engine are you using? I think mid 11s, with how you started out, is pretty good and you could get that down a bit as mentioned here.

BTW, with my gearing, I should just be shifting into 4th at about 120 so I am guessing yours is a bit lower geared than mine (made it so I can go 0-60 in first).

351W dart aluminum block bored to 427 cu in, AFR225 heads, solid roller cam, twm throttle bodies, electromotive tec2 with individual coils. I have M1 ZF with the same gearing at the panteras.

 

[Darrin]

351W dart aluminum block bored to 427 cu in, AFR225 heads, solid roller cam, twm throttle bodies, electromotive tec2 with individual coils. I have M1 ZF with the same gearing at the panteras.

I thought about that exact combination (even down to the AFR heads..believe them to be the best) but am going modern for a couple reasons. Great sounding engine though and it seems to make good power.

 

[Jack Houpe]

I thought about that exact combination (even down to the AFR heads..believe them to be the best) but am going modern for a couple reasons. Great sounding engine though and it seems to make good power.

If I had to do it over I would go small block 331 everything else the same.