Engine Parts for DRB #5

It has been a while and work is slow(or so it feels like). Almost all of the engine parts have been purchased and will be assembled soon. All the numbers will be posted soon. The induction system has just arrived, and I can't say enough about it. These guys have thought of all the things that are needed. The fuel rails are on the inside away from the heat, the throtle position sensor is mounted, 50mm throtle bodies, vacumn chamber, regulator, etc.
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http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/135/135525/folders/130756/1405687P1010240.jpg

The guys at TWM were even going to mount the throtle bodies reversed, but I guess they forgot, so I did that myself. no problem at all. Reversing them lets the fuel lines come from the front of the engine. The throtle cable mounting is even easy to turn around. The trumpets come as cast items, but a little Mother's Billet polish and a polishing wheel turn the cast items into something sparkling.
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Bill
 
Charlie,

It's a TWM induction EFI manifold. Attached is a photo of what one looks like finished and in place. It did require
a few minor modifications to fit, but nothing too troublesome. Well worth the effort!
Throttle response is incredible! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

The Other DRB Bill
DRB Chassis #35
 

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Welcome to the world of 8 stacks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Better setup than my Aussie DC&O unit. I hope you are going to run filters. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

I think we should now be calling you "Bad Bill". That engine looks mean with those stacks on it now. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
Paul,
We haven't selected the injectors yet, but they will be either 32# or 36# fired sequentially with an electromotive setup. I really like the distributorless setup for several reasons. first there is the tight fit of the distributor with the fuel/water lines. second The system is very simple and gives a better spark and duration than distributor or CD units. It uses a 60 tooth crank sensor for tighter control. The spark is for a Full 2 milliseconds up to 15,000 RPM as oposed to the .1 to .3 for the other sysems. That equates to 90 degrees of spark. Better burn, more power, easily tuned with a lap top. Setup the A/F ratio and you are good to go regardless of the altitude. Check out their web site for the complete story.
for filters I plan on installing the 1/4" stainless mesh in the side air vents both upper and lower. There are a few tricks to doing this. Use 3/8 " vacumn tubing. Slit it down the middle(has to be 90 deree cut), and then strech it to break the fiber thread that keeps it from kinking when bent. Once slit it will buckle the edges if the thread is is not broken loose. Here's the right way

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Here's what happens if you don't and have to make sharp turns

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Notice the corners!!! Since my car is a dark color the mesh/tubing will be sealed with black elastic sealer(window stuff from Home Depot). Since I'm in anesthesia, I can use the long(6") epidural needles for the placement of the sealant where it won't be seen. Then clean it up with some Armour All and its done. Filtering will be with a scruffy pad attacked to the outside of the mesh with black or clear nylon fishing line.Might consider a soft rubber skirt around the opening for the injectors to force the incomming air to go through the upper side vents. Still thinking about that one.
Bill
 
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