A punch and a hammer...not too difficult. You may not even need a hammer if you can leverage the retaining spring down some.
Fling SLC Build Thread
- Thread starter mcfling
- Start date
Michael Fling
Supporter
Calipers off to powder coater. I will be sure to place new rubber boots when I put the pistons back in. The rear corners have been removed, and the engine tranny comes out tomorrow. I just today received my cd with parts inventory. I will go through that tomorrow to ensure all is present.
I am going to modify my dash and use these:
Speedhut 6 GAUGE CUSTOM SET
GPS Speedometer Gauge 200mph, Tachometer Gauge 8K RPM Shift-light, Oil Pressure Gauge 0-100psi, Water Temp Gauge 120-260F, Fuel Level Gauge, Volt Gauge 0-18V
. Auto From Speedhut.
Is there a reason to consider the 10K rpm tach? I will talk with Jay on Monday to ensure the ISIS system can support these gauges. I will also use a push to start.
I am going to modify my dash and use these:
Speedhut 6 GAUGE CUSTOM SET
GPS Speedometer Gauge 200mph, Tachometer Gauge 8K RPM Shift-light, Oil Pressure Gauge 0-100psi, Water Temp Gauge 120-260F, Fuel Level Gauge, Volt Gauge 0-18V
. Auto From Speedhut.
Is there a reason to consider the 10K rpm tach? I will talk with Jay on Monday to ensure the ISIS system can support these gauges. I will also use a push to start.
ISIS will support the gauges, as all they really do is supply power to them (and in the SLC, provide wires in the harness to send signals from the engine back to the gauges- but you can use them for the same purpose for any gauge set).
I like the Speedhut gauges, but there really isn't a lot of room in the two center stacks for them, unless you are planning radical surgery for the dash.
Also, you'll likely need to design a new fuel level sensor for the Speedhuts as they use a different resistance range than the Koso, as well as compensate for the shape of the tank (assuming you want it to be reasonably accurate).
Have been thinking through details I would like in an SL-C. Am also very drawn to the SpeedHut gauges for the very clean euro apperance. Here is really rough mock up with a CF mounting plate. Have no idea about fit. Was just checking out how it could look.
Peter
Peter
That looks great!
'Eyeballing your rendering, if I remember the size of the S.H. gauges correctly, I believe you'd probably have to widen/rework the 'hump' in the dash a bit to fit them in this configuration. 'Don't see why that should be/would be any big deal though.
I like it. 'Very sharp and 'clean' looking.
'Eyeballing your rendering, if I remember the size of the S.H. gauges correctly, I believe you'd probably have to widen/rework the 'hump' in the dash a bit to fit them in this configuration. 'Don't see why that should be/would be any big deal though.
I like it. 'Very sharp and 'clean' looking.
Michael Fling
Supporter
I do intend on some surgery. I love the rendering! I am not sure it would fit. I will investigate. I also want to make room for a drink holder like the one in my Porsche. we will see?
PeteB
GT40s Supporter
Another option to make the Speedhut gauges fit would be to meld in some gauge pods like these:
3 3/8 - Aluminum Gauge Pod 3 3/8" - Dana Marine Products
2 1/16 - Aluminum Gauge Pod 2 1/16" - Dana Marine Products
3 3/8 - Aluminum Gauge Pod 3 3/8" - Dana Marine Products
2 1/16 - Aluminum Gauge Pod 2 1/16" - Dana Marine Products
Michael Fling
Supporter
The engine /Graz is out and I am "Getting my YOS on". Reflect-a-gold.
The brake and coolant system will be next. I intend on layering the frame under the brake lines with Boom Mat. I will be Using Boom Mat Tunnel Shield in the front nose area. I will use metal spacers in that area as the tunnel shield has a reasonable thickness to it.
The brake and coolant system will be next. I intend on layering the frame under the brake lines with Boom Mat. I will be Using Boom Mat Tunnel Shield in the front nose area. I will use metal spacers in that area as the tunnel shield has a reasonable thickness to it.
The engine /Graz is out and I am "Getting my YOS on". Reflect-a-gold.
The brake and coolant system will be next. I intend on layering the frame under the brake lines with Boom Mat. I will be Using Boom Mat Tunnel Shield in the front nose area. I will use metal spacers in that area as the tunnel shield has a reasonable thickness to it.
Is it just me, or does the top pic remind anyone else of a pretty powerful pedal-car?
Michael - looks great so far - keep posting pics, I'm living vicariously through you at the moment
Michael Fling
Supporter
Gathering goodies for the weekend. After I finish the Reflect a gold, I will finish the front dress and get the engine back in place. Then it will be on to the brake and coolant systems.
Can someone give me recommendations for rubber stripping for the frame rails in the gas tank area?
Can someone give me recommendations for rubber stripping for the frame rails in the gas tank area?
Michael, while you have the engine and transaxel out of the car, you may want to take advantage of this opportunity to look at the possibility of switching the rear motor mounts from left to right.
I was not happy with the design of the rear motor mounts for the Graziano application and felt that a LS3/Graziano package specific mount should have been made rather then the “one size fits all” approach. Presently, there is a 2” spacer supporting the weight of the engine and trans on a 1/2” bolt. In my opinion, this is a problem waiting to happen.
I'm not sure if the brackets are symmetrical, but if they are; a simple solution would be to switch the brackets from one side to the other. Actually, a better solution would be to design “fork” shaped mounting bracket that would mount on both sides of the engine block mount. A properly designed bracket would eliminate this large spacer and put a lot less stress on the mounting bolt, thus reducing the possibility of the bolt snapping!
Jim
The engine /Graz is out and I am "Getting my YOS on". Reflect-a-gold.
"Getting my YOS on":thumbsup:. LOL. I have to find a way to use that phrase today.
Sorry Jim,
I disagree we run FEA and our results exceed all current OEM levels....being in Detroit has its benefits.
I disagree we run FEA and our results exceed all current OEM levels....being in Detroit has its benefits.
McMaster-Carr sells "extreme temp silicone" rubber strips in various thickness. I used the 2" wide 1/8" thick stuff...but I'd imagine there's other sizes that would work too. It also comes adhesive backed, so its fool proof. Here's a link to the rubber sheeting/strips section...
McMaster-Carr
Michael Fling
Supporter
Got the alternator and AC compressor in place. Still waiting on 1 belt. The Reflect a Gold is near complete so the engine will be reunited with the car soon. Before I reinstall it, I was wondering about the elbow for the water pump inlet. There is a 45 degree fitting now that will not allow enough spacing. I purchased a 90 degree adjustable fitting from Jegs. Three questions:
1.Should the 90 degree adjustable fitting work fine?
2. I understand that Speedworks may have one that exits in less space than the 90 degree fitting from Jegs?
3. I have read where many have an AN fitting welded on??? Is this recommended?
1.Should the 90 degree adjustable fitting work fine?
2. I understand that Speedworks may have one that exits in less space than the 90 degree fitting from Jegs?
3. I have read where many have an AN fitting welded on??? Is this recommended?
Ken Roberts
Supporter
I've never seen an adjustable LS3 water elbow. Be careful in your purchase as the LS3 water elbow is unique and different then a LS2 or LS1. It has to do with how the thermostat fits inside.
I cut mine apart ...reclocked it then welded it back together.
I cut mine apart ...reclocked it then welded it back together.
I got mine from Fran. I don't know if he still has the custom units available but it was stainless and worked good.
