Fuel pump placement

[Richard]

I’d like to get my car running and maybe drive it to Road America but I still have a ton of things to take care of.

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I see most people mount one or more fuel pumps on the left rear bulkhead and some have one down near the tank with all sorts of swirl pots and filters. <o></o>
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The problem is at this point I just want to get the car so I can drive it, right now simple is good.
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I bought a 100GPH Carter fuel pump and the instruction say to mount it as low and close to the tank as possible. Apparently it’s better at pushing than pulling. Does anyone have a different opinion? Also if the pump is down by the tank should the regulator be down with the pump or up by the carb?
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I currently have the gas tanks out of the car and plan to clean them. Will vacuuming them out be good enough or should I also slosh some solvent around in them. I read somewhere on the site that someone had a fuel filter they could take apart and clean, does anyone know what the make and model is?
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Thanks again for the help.<o></o>
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[Randy V]

http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tec...e-cooling/28143-fuel-pump-recommendation.html

The original Stewart Warner and Facet pumps were a positive displacement pump that uses diaphragms and/or pistons. Vane type pumps like the one you have are typically not long lived when forced into service as a "lift" pump.

The old Stewart Warner pumps are very expensive when you find a good one. The Gerotor design pumps work very well in a "lift" situation. Some better than others.

I have altered my strategy and have secured the SW pumps for my car. I have a few of the Facet pumps left and will part with them if someone needs them. However, they do not have large enough ports in them to feed a large engine with only one pump running - it will take two.

If you plan on driving your car cross-country, I would urge you to consider one of the various gerotor pumps on the market..

-edit-

Cleaning.. Yes, you should see if you can vacuum and then flush the tanks out first. Make sure that you have a pair of filters. One before the fuel pump and one after.

 

[Steve C]

Richard,

The large filter I have in the sponsoon is a Canton (replaceable element)...see pics in the SPF forum under P2125 ect.

I would flush the tanks not rely on vacuming.

I have what I believe is best fuel supply for a CARBED car: tank to large Canton filter to Carter pump low in the sponsoon to swirl tank with overflow back to the tank then 2 Carters on the bulkhead with a SPDT switch that lets me use either one (I alternate the pumps ea ride and therefore always have a spare). Low pump in the sponsoon doesn't lift and should last a long time, bulkhead pumps by nature of the in sponsoon pump putting a positive flow through the swirl tank to the bulkhead pumps doesn't require the bulkhead pumps to operate without a suction head so should last long too. Sponsoon pump is always on when the dash fuel pump switch is on as well as the selected bulkhead pump via the SPDT bulkhead switch that is mounted above the bulkhead pumps (see pics).

Steve P2125

 

[Ron Earp]

Hey Richard,

While I agree with Randy in principle I know the vane type pumps can work well as lift pumps.

I have tested some Holly Blues and they had no problem lifting enough water to soak my garage in no time flat from a height of six feet. In addition, I have been using two Holley blues on my 260Z race car for over five years as lift pumps and neither have failed (one required a rebuild but it would still work). They are pulling from a cell up about a maximum height of 17" (measured this time). I doubt you could possible pull higher than 17" since the car is only 40" tall!!!

I think you'll be fine. Get yourself to Road America!

Ron

 

[dave harris]

Please be VERY careful if you intend to use a vacuum on any tank that has gas or gas fumes inside !!! make sure that the tank is completely free of gas fumes of any type before you stick a vacuum hose in there!! (too many potentials for sparks from the motor, static etc for that to be safe). if you do, pre-flush with water then let air completely out before you try it, then use your solvents to get out any residual moisture.

 

[Jack]

After cleaning a fuel tank, I usually purge with an inert gas such as nitrogen or carbon dioxide. Assuming welding equipment is available, this is easily done.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Molleur,

If you have welding equipment at hand, why not use it to illuminate the space you are cleaning ?

:thumbsup::shocked:

 

[Jack]

Funny, I'm sure someone has already acomplished that task...

 

[Wally]

HI I use the vacuum exhaust to evacuate any fumes before repairing fuel tanks, I remove the sending unit and also flush them with a pressure washer after the repairs to remove any scale or ??? As you have these off if you need take them to the car. wash as they have hot water which will aid in drying them out for reinstallation. The more positions you can change these to the better, I hang them to flush them. Hope to see all at Road America

 

[EGLITOM]

Funny, I'm sure someone has already acomplished that task...<!-- google_ad_section_end -->



I admit :sad:

almost 15 years ago i had to weld the tank of my wives vw rabbit.
I flushed it over 30 min with 50°C hot water. Than i emptied it ( probably the biggest mistake). I lighted the torch and was smart enough to give it a test. So i held the torch in the tank opening and booooom it flew for app 15m ( i had it leaning upright on a wall) and my eyebrows had a nice curly look. I had to "fire" it like this for about another 10 times ( effect getting smaller every time) until i was able to weld it. Great learning.

TOM

 

[Ian Anderson]

Can anyone tell how much pressure the fuel surging backwards under hard acceleration will make and thus give additional pressure over that designed into the pump system?

Ian

 

[Richard]

I'd like to thank every one for their input. The tanks have never had fuel in them so I don't have that issue. The car wash is a great idea after I get the big chunks out.

 

[John Fitzpatrick]

Probably not applicable to automotive tanks, but an old-time welder I knew in the Oklahoma oil patch refused to put a torch to most any container, but especially 55 gallon drums, that hadn't been filled with sand first. Could be why he was an old timer.

 

[Richard]

I still need info on where to place the regulator or if it doesn't matter I need to know that too.