G50 H pattern is this correct?

[Thomas Rouw]

Hey all,

been shifting my G50-03 box for test purposes today, I'found out where 1 to 5 live, but cannot find reverse.

I simply stuck an old screwdriver in the little bolt hole and shifted around counting revolutions on the driveshaft flanges.
is it very hard to get to reverse in this way? (need I push harder?)
I allways thought it was on south of 5th gear but I understand from a video of a fellow member that reverse lives next to 1

can anyone confirm that this piccie is correct? it also seems unlogical (tired at the mo) that with the box inverted or not the shift pattern stays the same, but it sure seems to be.....

regards Thomas

 

[EGLITOM]

From the experience i had with my 964 this should be correct. As far i know the reverse block is in the Shiftermechanism( one had to push the shifter down and then go to the reverse on the left hand side to first gear) not in the gearbox. so you should be able to put it in

TOM

 

[Randy V]

Confirming that this is the correct pattern. I used a 6" long bolt in mine and had to push REALLY hard to get the detent to allow me that far into the neutral gate..

 

[Thomas Rouw]

sorry bigfoot, I don't completly understand what you're saying,

the H-pattern is correct.

but the measurements with it are not? (seriously they are correct it's mm not " as I'm in europe)
or do I also need a 6" bolt in oder to aply enough force to get it into reverse?

Regards Thomas

 

[Randy V]

sorry bigfoot, I don't completly understand what you're saying,

the H-pattern is correct.

but the measurements with it are not? (seriously they are correct it's mm not " as I'm in europe)
or do I also need a 6" bolt in oder to aply enough force to get it into reverse?

Regards Thomas

What I was trying to say is that I confirm the location of reverse gear as in your illustration.

The longest bolt I had in 8mm thread (I think that's what it was) was about 6" long. Even with that long of a bolt - it took considerable force to overcome the pressure in the detent spring to move the bolt to the position where I could pull it back - thereby putting the transmission into reverse gear.

 

[Thomas Rouw]

Aha thanx for explaining,

I just had a new go at trying but I keep hitting a brick wall,
I can pull the lever to the left en then back wich engages 1st
I cannot pull the lever to the left any further in order to get the neutral shaft/motion in the correct posistion to pull back for reverse gear.
I move to the left and the a light clonk

should I be starting to worry about the box?

regards Thomas

 

[EGLITOM]

Randy

so actualy there is a resistance in the gear box to come into reverse. Do you think it is save enough with out a additional blocking device on the cable shifter ?

TOM

 

[Randy V]

Thomas - I thought I was going to break the bolt off - there is that much resistance.. You will hear a loud "Clunk" as the detent allows you to pass into the neutral gate above reverse and then into reverse.. There is an adjustment for the detent on the rear of the transmission that may help - although I am told that it is a very fine adjustment and that it's best to mark the position it was originally in.

Tom - Since reverse is next to first gear and the detent is very strong - I don't think you will need any sort of lockout. I know that I'm not going to worry about it..

 

[Thomas Rouw]

Big foot, thanx for the help I found it.

I also was a bit afraid I would break something inside the box, don't know why exactly never did before, maybe because it cost some dear money, but at least reverse exist on it and it's working.

thanx again for the help and confirmation of the drawing/photo!

Tom I would not be happy driving a car without reverse lock-out.

grtz Thomas

 

[Randy V]

Glad you found it Thomas...

Happy to be of assistance!

 

[Adam Hennessy]

While the force of moving the selector rod is quite a bit at the rod itself, leverage at the lever makes it a bit easier. I'd be a little warry about running a G50 w/o a reverse lockout. It's not that difficult to slip into R with it disengaged, and could do some good damage if done at forward speed.

 

[Randy V]

I'd be a little warry about running a G50 w/o a reverse lockout. It's not that difficult to slip into R with it disengaged, and could do some good damage if done at forward speed.

Just curious - With reverse gear being parallel to the first gear gate - I'm wondering what the odds are for accidently shifting into Reverse while underway at any speed.
Also - Is there a reverse lockout in the Porsches these transmissions come from? Can it be somehow adopted / adapted to our use?

 

[Adam Hennessy]

Just curious - With reverse gear being parallel to the first gear gate - I'm wondering what the odds are for accidently shifting into Reverse while underway at any speed.
Also - Is there a reverse lockout in the Porsches these transmissions come from? Can it be somehow adopted / adapted to our use?

spring assit detent in the transmission You pull towards the reverse gate and lever seems to hit a dead stop...that's the spring "lockout"....you then pull through that pressure and then push up into the reverse gate fully to engadge the gear. however that's with the stock lever and shift lever effort/leverage

It really just depends on the shifter you're using though. If it has more leverage over the detents(longer throw) it'll be easier to knock reverse. I've accidentally done it once in a 911 before and did some damage to the reverse idler gear. Happened because I was driving a porsche 928 S4 hours beforehand and that has the shift pattern the exact opposit of the G50(R is where 1st is in the 911).

shorter throw shifters tend to put more effort on the driver to get into the gate fully, and the internal detent spring may be enough to provide a "lockout" type feel where you won't/can't accidentally slip into R.

It's not a necessity(reverse lockout) but just knowing the cost of these gearboxes and the repairs that are necessary if it does happen taking the time to add in some sort of protection is better than nothing. It doesn't need to be extravagant. you could simply build a torsion spring block that doesn't allow the shifter to move into the reverse gate without using a good amoutn of force. enough force that if you tried doing it while driving, you'd notice it right away and stop forcing the lever.

lockout collars and cables can get complicated. i've seen some setups with simple electric plunger solenoids hooked to a button solenoid just has a pin on the end that prvents the lever from passing by it. push a button and the solenoid retracts/gate opens

 

[Red9]

Not much chance of getting reverse when moving.It is a fair way out of the way.