Just like many the economy has hit me a bit harder than I would have liked. So in the inertest of trying to save where I can. I decide to try and make my own brake disc mounting bells oy of the Merkur Scorpio solid rear discs. Here a couple of pics while machining one this weekend
Good bye Locost 7 Hello GT40!!
- Thread starter RacerDave
- Start date
One of the major things with a scratch build it seems like you are constantly collecting parts. You always have to keep in mind will this part work with that part.
I ordered my crankshaft and I forgot about the balance weights varying with the windsor block crankshafts. I ordered a 28 ounce weight fly wheel and ordered a 50 ounce crankshaft. So I am off to the engine machine shop to see if he can help me.
other parts I have collected lately are.
SPA AFFF fire system..
Clutch pressure plate and disc
rear uprights and lower control arms
I ordered my crankshaft and I forgot about the balance weights varying with the windsor block crankshafts. I ordered a 28 ounce weight fly wheel and ordered a 50 ounce crankshaft. So I am off to the engine machine shop to see if he can help me.
other parts I have collected lately are.
SPA AFFF fire system..
Clutch pressure plate and disc
rear uprights and lower control arms
The one thing nice about being inside racing is that once in a while you find products to help your project. I am going to use this on my rear bulkhead. It is called Teknofibra. I think it will help in a couple different other areas also. It has an adhesive backing which will work nicely for my application.
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Dave,
I wouldn't worry about the .060 over on the block. My 351Winsor came with my car and was .030 over and freshly rebuilt. It had never been cranked. When I inspected the engine, Ifound water everywhere. He had let the car sit out in the rain. After negotiations I kept the engine and he paid for a fresh rebuild. My engine guy(Charley Peppers) an old fellow up in Cummings Ga. that has his shop in a barn and has been doing engines for many years. He supplies all the drag and roundy round guys with their engines. He took a look at my block and said a hone job would remove the stains(rust). After honing he said it would have to be bored, as there was pitting of several cylinders and .60 was the target. I allayed my fears about the .060. He said that .06 would not leave the walls too thin, and he had done many engines this way. It was the catalyst to building my engine the way I wanted it anyway. Bored, stroked and internally balanced.
It will bump the power up a bit, to around 408CI. I will dyno the engine on a chassis dyno on Wednesday. I will shoot you the results, but you can do .06 without any fears.
Bill
I wouldn't worry about the .060 over on the block. My 351Winsor came with my car and was .030 over and freshly rebuilt. It had never been cranked. When I inspected the engine, Ifound water everywhere. He had let the car sit out in the rain. After negotiations I kept the engine and he paid for a fresh rebuild. My engine guy(Charley Peppers) an old fellow up in Cummings Ga. that has his shop in a barn and has been doing engines for many years. He supplies all the drag and roundy round guys with their engines. He took a look at my block and said a hone job would remove the stains(rust). After honing he said it would have to be bored, as there was pitting of several cylinders and .60 was the target. I allayed my fears about the .060. He said that .06 would not leave the walls too thin, and he had done many engines this way. It was the catalyst to building my engine the way I wanted it anyway. Bored, stroked and internally balanced.
It will bump the power up a bit, to around 408CI. I will dyno the engine on a chassis dyno on Wednesday. I will shoot you the results, but you can do .06 without any fears.
Bill
Spent some time working in the garage this evening. I removed the the Ford Granada hubs from the front of the chassis. I needed to remove the brake discs from the hub. The Hub and discs were one piece castings. Clamped the hubs to the bridgeport mill fired up the phase converter and machined the brake discs off. Now I can take the hubs to the lathe at work and finish the job. The bonus is I will lose a bit of weight on each hub.
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Thats a big chunk of alu.
Hi Frank:
It was bigger cut it down a bit!
I got the center of the shifter mounting bracket machined the rest of the way out today. I am going to have to invest in a machine vise. It was a real pain to do with out one. I may finish it up at work on my lunch breaks. But at least we have progress.
It was bigger cut it down a bit!
I got the center of the shifter mounting bracket machined the rest of the way out today. I am going to have to invest in a machine vise. It was a real pain to do with out one. I may finish it up at work on my lunch breaks. But at least we have progress.
Is that the right grade to use? Carroll Smith (in Engineer to win) suggests not and that 2024-T4 is the grade to use.
Not sure if this link will work or not but here we go... Should be page 46
Engineer to win - Carroll Smith - Google Books
Not sure if this link will work or not but here we go... Should be page 46
Engineer to win - Carroll Smith - Google Books
David:
Since being in the racing parts business starting in 1995. The most common material I have seen used is a 6061-T6 aluminum. Some high end hats are made from aircraft grade 7075.The old grand national style hats (nascar) were just castings. Availability and cost are always issues in production parts. I personally think 6061 will work fine for my application. I quit reading engineering books years ago they put me to sleep;-)
Since being in the racing parts business starting in 1995. The most common material I have seen used is a 6061-T6 aluminum. Some high end hats are made from aircraft grade 7075.The old grand national style hats (nascar) were just castings. Availability and cost are always issues in production parts. I personally think 6061 will work fine for my application. I quit reading engineering books years ago they put me to sleep;-)
