Good bye Locost 7 Hello GT40!!

Randy V

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Dave - Looking good my friend!!

Jac, with Priority Main oiling and the pee hole for the distributor gear - what are your thoughts on HV pump? I still think std vol would be fine for street and occasional track, but sustained track time?
 
Dave - Looking good my friend!!

Jac, with Priority Main oiling and the pee hole for the distributor gear - what are your thoughts on HV pump? I still think std vol would be fine for street and occasional track, but sustained track time?

Good question, depends on how much oil we are bleeding off to feed stuff like spray bars for valve springs, lifter bore grooving, & the lube for dizzy gear, lot of other variables like rod bearing dia with the stroker cranks, cross drilling, 360°,270°,180° grooved main bearings, & other internal loss's.
All those factors have to be considered & if your 'loose' on clearances with most of the items mentioned then the HV pump might be necessary [ but in that instance your using it as a crutch or ambulance at the bottom of the cliff ], cooling is more important for sustained track time to give you a consistant oil quality. If your just using a large amount of oil and the temp is gradually increasing throughout the event then the oil quality will be degrading the further you drive..... bit like a rum n coke thats not stirred, first sip tastes good, perhaps a little weak, last one nearly curls your tongue!!:)
Bottom line, a pump capable of maintaining ~10 psi for each 1000 RPM is enough, the fact that the priority oil line improves the SB ford system suggests that the original setup has a flow restriction within the block/filter area so adding a HV pump with no other modifications will only increase the load on the dizzy gear...see where I am going with this??
 
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Randy V

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Yup - I know exactly where you're going Jac... Fact is that I have done HV pumps in situations like this, but I also went to great lengths to improve overall flow (reducing resistance) by using -12 or larger oil lines, HP filters / Oberg filters, large radius angle fittings, high flow coolers and such.. That's when you really need the piss hole over the drive gears and a billet drive shaft. Also I would bond a Moroso heater pad to the oil sump and pre-heat the oil whenever possible.. So yes, all of these are required, in my opinion, to save you from having to spend a few dollars more on a dry sump or at least an adjustable external pump where you would still do most of these things anyway..
The 10 PSI per 1000 RPM has been a good rule of thumb..
 
Started to machine the front brake brackets for the Mustang II spindles today. First cut an angle of about 3 degrees on the 1" x 3" x 5 7/8" Block of aluminium,
 

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Dave:
Looks like you are in overdrive!
What brakes are you using on those uprights? Reason I ask is I went the Wilwood route but modified a lot of stuff, but there is always room for a few changes.
Keep it coming
Cheers
Phil
 
Phil:

Using AP racing CP7751 lug mount calipers on 3.5" bolt spacing. AP replaced those with CP8250 forged calipers basically same dimensions. They will fit under a 15" wheel. They also make a radial mount version CP8350
 
They sound expensive....
I did a custom alum. hub to take a wheel adapter directly, and the rotor hat is set up to bolt directly to the back of the hub. Right now I am looking to upgrade to 1 1/4" thick rotors from 1"...but I am going to run what I got for now and do that after the first start-up and shakedown. Soon I hope, but you might catch me at this point.
Keep posting...looking good.... here's a photo of my setup.
Phil
 

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Hi Phil:

CP8250 are not too expensive. Keep in mind if you decide to go to 1.250" x 11.75" or 1.25" x 12.19" discs to use an 8 bolt on 7" bolt circle .312 holes. This is the most common bolt circle used on high production racing brake discs. It will really keep your costs down on replacements no matter which companies brake system you use. Plus you can get them in a day if you need to.
 
I realized I had forgotten to buy a fuel pump block off plate for the 351 Windsor. Saw some for $15.00 plus freight and others for $30.00. So I just made one on my lunch hour
 

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Got a chance to work on the 40 today. Because of the blizzard :laugh:
The engine block is painted gloss black. Real struggle as I like Ford blue. Thought it might clash with the Daytona Blue pearl I have chosen for the body. Test fit the distributor I got from my wife for Christmas fits fine.
 
Got an e-mail today for a discount from Speedway Motors. I have been putting off purchasing the fuel caps for the car. Speedway sells the Cobra domed flip caps so I purchased both and a couple other items.
 

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Dave:
One of the original cars I had access to had the block painted black, and I went that route also..I think it looks good in the chassis. Used my old favorite Barbecue black...not too flat not too glossy.
How did you do your masters..? balance bar or dual master in single body.
Springs comin' and I was hoping to see you go for a startup soon.
If we ever get rid of all this snow up here I will be ready myself soon.
Cheers
Phil
 

Randy V

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Dave, I wonder if there's enough material in the dome of those Lemans fuel filler caps to mill them flat like the original GT40s are?

I wish winter would finally give up.... We're having Ground-hog for dinner... :eek:
 
Hi Randy:

I received the gas caps. They nice are die cast units. From a quick survey it does not look like the dome is thick enough to mill flat. But I may at some point write a G code program for my friend's cnc to make Flat Tops. If I do this It will be open source for the forum.
 
Been looking for some nice driving lights. Seemed most I ran across had angled mounts. These are for a Chrysler 300.
 

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Found that Speedway motors has a nice light switch with a black labeled knob for Headlights. It also 2 accessory blades for parking lights and maybe Roundel lights
 

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Been steadily working on the engine. Short block is together and one cylinder head installed. Hope to get the second one done and installed before Friday.
 
Both heads are now installed. Taking the intake manifold to get bead blasted tomorrow.
 

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