Homebuilt Mid-Engine Sports Racer


Hey Neil, Anyone can go out and buy a Ferrari or a Rolls. But not everyone can build a car like you've done. That's what makes it special.
I too, would have been hanging around your car, without much interest in the other cars around you. You should be proud.
Regards, Udo.
Thanks, Udo. It took a long time to build but I can honestly say that I learned a lot during the build. I met one young fellow, Tristan, at that show who spent quite a bit of time carefully inspecting my car. He told me that he was just starting to build a car himself and was interested in how I had done it.
Still on the build take. Engine will be done In November December. Lots of work left. Front suspension is about done but I'm going to back half the car and start in the rear in January I hope. How was your run at Bonneville?


Rod, go back one page to my posts of 13 sept 2021. I posted some videos that I put on YouTube. I ran 157.458 mph in the "150 Club"and I was just loafing along. I could not go 160 or higher or I would have been disqualified in that class, so I thought I'd better quit before I went faster. I had lots more power so 157+ was easy.
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Yesterday I stumbled on a fascinating interview with Jim Hall, one of the most important innovators in the history of auto racing. He goes into detailed descriptions of his cars and covers interesting details of their design and construction.

In 1970 or '71 I moved to Tucson and passed through Midland, Texas on my drive across country. I asked a local gas station attendant where Hall's shop was and headed south a few miles to where it was located. Someone met me at the closed gate and I explained that I was designing and building a small sports racer and wanted to know about what they recommended for shock damping ratios. I was admitted and introduced to Jim Hall who was with a few fellows trying to balance a crankshaft on a machine whose normal operator was off work because it was the weekend. Hall took time to talk to me about suspension design among other things. I appreciated his interest in what I was doing. Jim Hall was, in addition to being a first-class race car engineer, a very nice, soft-spoken person.


The Motive Power 0100 European Power Brake Bleeder Kit is a basically good idea but is a PITA to use, Why? Here's the problem;

The pressure tank hose is provided with a male brass 1/4 NPT fitting that is intended to screw into a female brass 1/4 NPT fitting on the end of the hose connected to the fluid reservoir cap. Simple, right?
No, screwing the pieces together winds up the hoses since there is no provision for rotation- the plastic hoses are crimped on both ends.. Screwing the two hoses' pipe threads together first and then threading on the cap winds up the hoses. too. A simple modification will solve this problem. Here is how:

Thread an air hose fitting on the tank hose end. Seal the threads with Teflon tape.
Buy a replacement brake fluid reservoir cap or sacrifice your original cap.
Drill a 1/2" hole in the center of the cap with a step drill and thread in a 1/4 NPT fitting as shown in the photo. This will probably seal in a plastic cap but for added insurance against leaks I added some JB Weld epoxy around the threads inside and out.
Now you can screw on the cap, connect the push-on fittings and pressurize your master cylinder. No tangled hoses!


similar mods on mine. One bummer is that my nice machined aluminum adapter for the Girling reservoir is no good - apparently Girling changed the thread sometime around 2010, so if you have an old one, you'll need to make a lid out of an old cap.