I'm trying to figure out how much someone could get done with an SLC build before not having the motor bolted in slows you down. I've contemplated purchasing the kit in stages. Trying to figure out an overall order of doing things....
How soon do you need the engine during SLC build process?
- Thread starter TXDave26
- Start date
As long as you definetaly know which Engine you choose you can do a lot of Things on the Car before you need it - but i prefer to have everything together - you never know , sometimes small Things are adding to Problems when you cant test it before...
I do have an engine/transaxle combo selected. LS7 and Graziano
That's what I was thinking Alex... I'm planning on buying a built turn key motor from Texas Speed And Performance. They have a one year warranty and I'm sure I will take more than a year to build this car.
You can get plastic engine replicas for just this purpose. Summit sells the P-Ayr line.
Howard Jones
Supporter
How about this idea. You buy a used LS series engine for as cheap as possible. Use it as a basis for building out the engine room such as water lines, oil lines, motor mounts, exhaust system, and working out the mounting of the gearbox, clutch etc. Maybe the Texas guys can help with this with a modest deposit for the new engine to be delivered later if necessary. Hell the might have some old heads, block and other pieces to loan you. Ask.
Then when the car is much closer to completion you can pull the used engine, strip it of all the unique SLC pieces and sell it. You could conceivably sell it for what you paid for it if you choose carefully. Then as the budget improves you can buy the engine of your dreams. Or you could use the used engine as a basis for a rebuild.
If money is tight you might think about doing the same thing with the gearbox. You only need a rebuildable unit that is the same type as you want to use in the end. The difference in cost between a used engine and gearbox and the rebuilt to your final specifications could be quite a lot of money..........thousands even. This approach might get you quite a long way along with your build and at the same time holding down the up front cost.
You could also just work on the bodywork fit and finish, brake system, suspension and the other various pieces first and leave the power train to later. That would flatten the spending curve quite a lot. Basically do the paid for stuff first like body prep. You have already spent the money for the kit so spend the first portion of the build time finishing the chassis/body and then buy the other things you need later.
Either way take your time and only do things once if it means spending money whenever possible. Don't buy anything until you need it, all the while being forever vigilant for a great deal. And make it a prime directive not to waste money on things that are the wrong piece only to have it on the shelf in the garage years later after the car is complete.
Then when the car is much closer to completion you can pull the used engine, strip it of all the unique SLC pieces and sell it. You could conceivably sell it for what you paid for it if you choose carefully. Then as the budget improves you can buy the engine of your dreams. Or you could use the used engine as a basis for a rebuild.
If money is tight you might think about doing the same thing with the gearbox. You only need a rebuildable unit that is the same type as you want to use in the end. The difference in cost between a used engine and gearbox and the rebuilt to your final specifications could be quite a lot of money..........thousands even. This approach might get you quite a long way along with your build and at the same time holding down the up front cost.
You could also just work on the bodywork fit and finish, brake system, suspension and the other various pieces first and leave the power train to later. That would flatten the spending curve quite a lot. Basically do the paid for stuff first like body prep. You have already spent the money for the kit so spend the first portion of the build time finishing the chassis/body and then buy the other things you need later.
Either way take your time and only do things once if it means spending money whenever possible. Don't buy anything until you need it, all the while being forever vigilant for a great deal. And make it a prime directive not to waste money on things that are the wrong piece only to have it on the shelf in the garage years later after the car is complete.
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Great info Howard. I bet I can score a blown LS7 for cheap to free. Just use it to mock up everything.... Never really thought about that.
Dave, I'm not sure if anyone has done a LS7/Graziano yet? You may want to check out the availability/cost of adapter plate and possible clearance issues with the length of the Grazziano; you may be in uncharted waters!
Just a thought.
Jim
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Exactly what I did, and it saved a lot of headaches. Everything ended up perfect in fitment. Granted, a lot of fabricating is already done with your purchase, so fitment is pretty well started, but it's the little details that will pay off with a dummy motor in the car.
I'm pretty sure Dave Forster has the LS7/Graziano setup in his SLC he is currently building. I'm lucky enough to live less than 30miles from him. His car will be the one I look at and say "Ohhh that's how that goes...."
OK.....I knew that Dave Forster had Graziano #2 (I have #1) and we were both going through the same growing pains, but I didn't know that he had an LS7; I thought it was an LS3. If in fact that is an LS7, you will no longer be in uncharted waters and that should make life a little easier.
Good luck!
Jim
Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
The only difference between the fitting of the LS3 and the LS7 with a Graz. is the factory oil cooler on the LS7...this requires a pair of spacers between the adapter plate and its mounts in the chassis to avoid the mounting bolts interfering.
The adapter plate and mounts are all the same parts for both engines..with exception of the spacers
The adapter plate and mounts are all the same parts for both engines..with exception of the spacers
I bought a plastic LS block - http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pyp-2046/overview/ - it's light weight (like 15lbs, so very easy to maneuver) threaded bolt holes are dead on and there's always a local re-sale market for them to recoup almost all your money.
The downside though is it won't have your accessories bolted on (e..g, waterpump) so some stuff you have to visualize, but overall it's a lot easier than moving a scrap engine and having to deal with the lump of metal later on.
If you want to get it your SLC on the road ASAP, your goal should be to have the complete drive train ready to drop in when your kit arrives. That can reduce your build cycle by as much as a month.
I did this and had my motor, tranaxle and half shafts installed about a week after the kit arrived.
Here are some things you can do while waiting for your kit:
I did this and had my motor, tranaxle and half shafts installed about a week after the kit arrived.
Here are some things you can do while waiting for your kit:
- Buy motor
- Buy transaxle
- If you have a long tail G50 transaxle, shorten the tail
- If the motor and transaxle are used, clean and paint them as needed
- Buy clutch, pressure plate and pilot bearing
- Wire the motor
- Buy and install the starter
- Buy and install the slave clutch cylinder
- If you are using the LS7 headers, buy and install the headers
- Setup front pulley assy
- Modify the front water inlet/outlets so they will fit in the engine bay (see SLC build manual)
- Reverse the intake manifold and block off the upper oil pressure sensor
- Buy and install the intake cold air/MAS tubing
It will cost more building in stages, and take longer. That extra could pay interest if you borrow for the major costs from the start. IMO, it avoids getting parts that might not work well together, or having to pay extra (plus time) for mock engines. There could be good reasons to buy the whole kit, but delay the engine and gearbox - something better may come along, or (engine) prices fall though.
With a tight budget, I'd be making an offer on Jim's part-completed car.
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Great idea :idea:
At the risk of sounding self serving, I think that is extremely sound advise! :laugh: :laugh: Roger, you are a very wise man well beyond your years. :thumbsup:
Jim
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Fran Hall RCR
GT40s Sponsor
he is just very old.....:2thumbsup:...almost my age
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Daaaaaaammmmmnnnn...... :shocked:
