J. Salmon RCR-40 Build

Wow, more than a year since an update.

This makes up for it a bit:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nC2rfpMBVO4&feature=plcp]RCR GT40 tuning - YouTube[/ame]

More next weekend.
 

Randy V

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Staff member
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Wow Jay, she's sounding really good!

Congratulations!!!!

:thumbsup:
 
Yeah sounds realy smooth in pull, but all that popping in push?

What´s the reason for that and can it be tuned out, or do you want it that way?

aanndd, that color still strikes me whenever i see it. great

TOM
 
We are still tuning, it is at VIPER at VIR. Another half day to get everything just so.

The plan (and it does look promising) is to do some preliminary testing next weekend. There will still be lots of little things to do, but the driveline and chassis seem to be finally together.
 
Dyno tuning done, testing Friday.

More refined, eh Tom? :)

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6zUuNWUh18&feature=plcp]All gears tuning - YouTube[/ame]
 
Heading down tomorrow to mount mirrors and do some testing.

I am almost sure we will have to go to +2 rear fenders. The axle angle is giving us hell. The boots cannot handle it. We are going to talk to the Driveshaft shop, but I just think the less angle the better, and +2 will be a big help. Plus, who doesn't love wider rears? (I almost did it up front. Dern it...)
 
J
Man does that sound smooth. You did a great job of working out the bugs.Can't wait to see it on the road. Thanks for the post and keep up the good work.
 
Dear Jay

Sounds much nicer now. I like the flame trowing, i have the same on my car. Due to the header wrap the hole system is realy hot when i drive the car hard. If i than go to my "hot" shift point of 7200 RPM it throws out 3 feet long flames with every shift.
Quite a picture during daylight but absolutly gorgoius in the dark.
Also helps to gain respect from other fast cars who try to keep up. It is usualy enough to keep them staying away and following me without any further attack, after i have showed them the acceleration and flames once. He he !

Regarding driveshaft angle and boots. What is your angle? my car has a 7,5 -8° angle in rideheight. Had some issues with the original boots as well. Boots of Audi A4 and A6 are the same and if you buy OEM they are of good quality and up to now they are ok. I use them on the outside.

On the inside i´m using that style.


The rubber boot even more tucked inside , so that it can not rub , than they also hold up. Have not changed one in 4000 km´s up to now.

Also one thing to watch is driveshaft length. I have limited my full drop so that it ends short before the driveshaft is fully stretched to avoid putting load onto the CV´s. Same is true for full in setup, you should set a bump stop before the driveshaft is fully compressed.

I have modified my shocks for the max full drop and i don´t have an issue with full in ( still have some play at the driveshaft with full in).

Of course th +2" helps to reduce the angle a bit , but than you would need wider flares or. I have the +2" plus 12"inch wide rears and have build my own flares. If you need them i have the moulds.

Thanks
TOM
 
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J
Man does that sound smooth. You did a great job of working out the bugs.Can't wait to see it on the road. Thanks for the post and keep up the good work.
Ha! I didn't work out any bugs, I just said "hey Victor, is that too much popping?" and that was that.

Tom, I have too much angle for those boots. I'll post some pictures in a bit. May take you up on the moulds, we will see.
 

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Dear Jay


Regarding driveshaft angle and boots. What is your angle? my car has a 7,5 -8° angle in rideheight. Had some issues with the original boots as well. Boots of Audi A4 and A6 are the same and if you buy OEM they are of good quality and up to now they are ok. I use them on the outside.

On the inside i´m using that style.


The rubber boot even more tucked inside , so that it can not rub , than they also hold up. Have not changed one in 4000 km´s up to now.

Also one thing to watch is driveshaft length. I have limited my full drop so that it ends short before the driveshaft is fully stretched to avoid putting load onto the CV´s. Same is true for full in setup, you should set a bump stop before the driveshaft is fully compressed.

I have modified my shocks for the max full drop and i don´t have an issue with full in ( still have some play at the driveshaft with full in).

Of course th +2" helps to reduce the angle a bit , but than you would need wider flares or. I have the +2" plus 12"inch wide rears and have build my own flares. If you need them i have the moulds.

Thanks
TOM
Tom,

What boots are these, and where did you source them? I've seen similar ones advertised ("Aero"), but their description indicated a lack of tolerance for much angularity. I'm running about 9 degrees, and would love a set like this, but the description from the vendor spooked me out of the purchase.
 
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