Jimmymac & Alistair's Cars
- Thread starter JIMMYMAC
- Start date
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
I did post a query last week asking if anyone knew of availability of high spec hoses with a smooth finish.
The tumbleweed is still rolling across my yard with no response at all.
So another problem solved today,,,,,,,,,
I have been messing about with hose printing for some time now and at last I think that I have a good tool to print modern hoses with the old markings.
Today I managed to get it to print pretty cleanly on some new hose at the third attempt by changing out the paint formula and adjusting the tampon applicator.
The second and third yellow print is a top quality long lasting tyre paint thickened for the applicator and to stop bleeding.
The tumbleweed is still rolling across my yard with no response at all.
So another problem solved today,,,,,,,,,
I have been messing about with hose printing for some time now and at last I think that I have a good tool to print modern hoses with the old markings.
Today I managed to get it to print pretty cleanly on some new hose at the third attempt by changing out the paint formula and adjusting the tampon applicator.
The second and third yellow print is a top quality long lasting tyre paint thickened for the applicator and to stop bleeding.
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Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Great job James
Hi James - how much of your build is left to complete?
Chris M
Chris M
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
I guess you are correct, I am bored with it too.
So quite a bit and there is another Trout season open.
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JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
More woodwork.
A friend has just asked me to make him an accurate pattern for a lefty steering rack so I will make him one similar to this.
These are the main parts including the core pattern. The main body of casting is split in two longitudinally using a traditional "paper joint" for turning. The two halves are shown taped together here.
A friend has just asked me to make him an accurate pattern for a lefty steering rack so I will make him one similar to this.
These are the main parts including the core pattern. The main body of casting is split in two longitudinally using a traditional "paper joint" for turning. The two halves are shown taped together here.
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
It is warming up outside so it is fibreglass season again . I will be making up a couple of battery covers first.
My headlight orifices have always bugged me since my paint job so this week I had some new headlight plates cut to size using an original Marchal headlight profile to rectify the niggle.
In the past we bought these pieces already folded but they never fitted the glasswork properly. (one would logically think this through first), and no matter how much jiggling we tried did they fit the lens profile properly.
I think that the best way to install them is to trial fit them flat, then mark the return corners on the plate to suit the bottom return bend in the fibreglass.
I will then press the proper returns in before bonding them flush in the pod.
. I will be making up a couple of battery covers first.My headlight orifices have always bugged me since my paint job so this week I had some new headlight plates cut to size using an original Marchal headlight profile to rectify the niggle.
In the past we bought these pieces already folded but they never fitted the glasswork properly. (one would logically think this through first), and no matter how much jiggling we tried did they fit the lens profile properly.
I think that the best way to install them is to trial fit them flat, then mark the return corners on the plate to suit the bottom return bend in the fibreglass.
I will then press the proper returns in before bonding them flush in the pod.
How do you cut your plates - water jet? Nicely done!
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Lee
Laser cut locally.
Some time ago I did get some plate profile cut using water jet but hated the resultant finish of the kerf.
Looks great. Keep the photos coming on this topic.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
So the brown Marchal frame fits behind? Then you break the bottom 90 over to meet the bottom of the fiberglass in front of the light?
Appreciate the additional info as I just got my frames from France and will be ready to trial mount my lights.
Appreciate the additional info as I just got my frames from France and will be ready to trial mount my lights.
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
David,
Yes the new plate folds under the bottom in front of the light.
You can fit the brown frame behind the light but before you do this you need to decide where you want the captive screw to fit to - either to the brown Marchal frame or to the alloy one.
It's easier to do it as you suggested by fitting some stand-off bushes to hold the OEM back frame to the front plate.
I am thinking of going totally original and this means a bracket modification to the light fittings to accommodate the captive screw knobs.
Here are the original fittings required for both the main beams and the lower driving lamps. These are illustrated in the blue Willment book.
Yes the new plate folds under the bottom in front of the light.
You can fit the brown frame behind the light but before you do this you need to decide where you want the captive screw to fit to - either to the brown Marchal frame or to the alloy one.
It's easier to do it as you suggested by fitting some stand-off bushes to hold the OEM back frame to the front plate.
I am thinking of going totally original and this means a bracket modification to the light fittings to accommodate the captive screw knobs.
Here are the original fittings required for both the main beams and the lower driving lamps. These are illustrated in the blue Willment book.
Davidmgbv8
Supporter
Do you remove the riveted plastic bit from the brown plate and put thru the new long pins and knobs?
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Not correct, your lamp is the wrong model.
To be correct, the light fitting needs modifying with new tabs with bigger holes for the captive screw knob.
The nylon bits in my photo are riveted to the front plate at the hole locations to pick up the thread end of the long screw for adjustment.
Here is an original GT40 light with the proper tab fitting and a screw fitted with the knob locked in front of the tab with a circlip.
As I mentioned previously you should work out which option for screw adjustment that you prefer.
To be correct, the light fitting needs modifying with new tabs with bigger holes for the captive screw knob.
The nylon bits in my photo are riveted to the front plate at the hole locations to pick up the thread end of the long screw for adjustment.
Here is an original GT40 light with the proper tab fitting and a screw fitted with the knob locked in front of the tab with a circlip.
As I mentioned previously you should work out which option for screw adjustment that you prefer.
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
Getting on with a new casting pattern for a lefty steering rack whilst awaiting some decent adhesive for my lights.
A trial assembly of the parts for first rack prior to finishing the draft and filleting on the bracket.
Makes a nice war club if it is made in lignum vitae.
A trial assembly of the parts for first rack prior to finishing the draft and filleting on the bracket.
Makes a nice war club if it is made in lignum vitae.
Glenn M
Supporter
Indeed, but not such a good raft!
JimmyMac
Lifetime Supporter
It has been a couple of years since I first opened up a couple of boxed NOS speedos only to find how badly the paint finishes had deteriorated even after being stored in a dry cupboard.
Anyhow, today I have finally restored what was a new unit to complete my set of gauges.
Sept 2020
Before stripping and re-plating
Today
Painted and ready for new bezels and gaskets
Anyhow, today I have finally restored what was a new unit to complete my set of gauges.
Sept 2020
Before stripping and re-plating
Today
Painted and ready for new bezels and gaskets