Joel’s SL-C Build Thread

#41
Nice, ambitious! Are you planning to baffle the interior of the tank so you don’t run into issues with pump starvation in turns with low fuel level? I believe in other in-tank conversions I’ve seen most people have added some type of internal baffling to help with that. Without running a swirl pot there won’t be much fuel volume to back you up if there’s a pickup issue.

Going with an in-tank will help with the noise, I can hear my external pumps working away when the car is running. It’s not intrusive, but you definitely know the pumps are running. Maybe some kind of shielding to help block the noise would help but I imagine the in-tank route is going to be dead quiet.

Is it just a weird angle, or is the floor of your fuel tank compartment not fully closed out? Looks like there’s only about a 3-4” plate forming the bottom of that area.
 
#42
Nice, ambitious! Are you planning to baffle the interior of the tank so you don’t run into issues with pump starvation in turns with low fuel level? I believe in other in-tank conversions I’ve seen most people have added some type of internal baffling to help with that. Without running a swirl pot there won’t be much fuel volume to back you up if there’s a pickup issue.

Going with an in-tank will help with the noise, I can hear my external pumps working away when the car is running. It’s not intrusive, but you definitely know the pumps are running. Maybe some kind of shielding to help block the noise would help but I imagine the in-tank route is going to be dead quiet.

Is it just a weird angle, or is the floor of your fuel tank compartment not fully closed out? Looks like there’s only about a 3-4” plate forming the bottom of that area.
Hi Cam, right now don’t think I will need to baffle the tank. The stock fuel pump has a jet pump which fills up the fuel bucket so it works similar to a swirl tank.

Another option would be to add two fuel pick ups in series, one next to the fuel pump and another on the far end. These look pretty clever....

http://autoperformanceengineering.com/html/pickups.html
 
#44
Nice, ambitious! Are you planning to baffle the interior of the tank so you don’t run into issues with pump starvation in turns with low fuel level? I believe in other in-tank conversions I’ve seen most people have added some type of internal baffling to help with that. Without running a swirl pot there won’t be much fuel volume to back you up if there’s a pickup issue.

Going with an in-tank will help with the noise, I can hear my external pumps working away when the car is running. It’s not intrusive, but you definitely know the pumps are running. Maybe some kind of shielding to help block the noise would help but I imagine the in-tank route is going to be dead quiet.

Is it just a weird angle, or is the floor of your fuel tank compartment not fully closed out? Looks like there’s only about a 3-4” plate forming the bottom of that area.
Cam,

With regard to the weird angle, good catch. The fuel compartment is half closed/covered. I have the extended foot box and they chose to cut the whole chassis pan including the front foot box out of a single sheet which shortens the length of the pan near the fuel tank area. I really don’t like the way it was done, but it is what it is. I’ll get a 6” x 72” sheet and close it out. Maybe have it welded in or rivnut it so I can remove it for some reason.
 
#50
Spent some time on the build yesterday and made the modifications on the fuel tank required for the stock Camaro ZL1 pump as well as adding the roll over-vent valves.

Parts used
1)Gen5 Camaro ZL1 fuel pump
2)Weld in aluminum fuel pump ring from VaporWorx.com
3)Rollover valve weld in bung from boydwelding.com
4)Rollover-vent vale’s from fordpartsgiant.com, Part No.: F65Z-9B593-DA VALVE ASY - FUEL VAPOUR
5)1/8” sheet aluminum from McMaster Carr

I marked off where I wanted to cut the tank with masking tape, it makes it easier to follow along when cutting. The pump is spring loaded and can be mounted 6-7” from the bottom of the tank with a recommended depth of 6.5”. You also need to cut enough of the tank away so there is enough room for the weld in ring which is 7” wide. It turned out 6.5” from the bottom give you over 8 inches of flat surface on the top so that is where I marked the cutting line.

Also, based on the surface area cut away I will lose around 1.5 gallons of fuel tank capacity which I don’t think is a big deal.

Here is a video of the plan...

Pics of the tank prior to cutting...
CA5FFAF6-BFD9-403B-AF53-490917A28E38.jpeg


CA5FFAF6-BFD9-403B-AF53-490917A28E38.jpeg

CDFFB85A-0A32-49A0-B54F-6659F5135F6F.jpeg


After cutting the tank the pump hat is about an inch from the top of the tank, then the hat springs compress to keep the bottom of the fuel pump pressed to the bottom of the tank.
62F8EB0F-532E-422E-AFE2-79EEA085FC13.jpeg

0AD481F6-771A-4B93-B9AE-C5C946AAE5F9.jpeg


Cut a 6 3/8” hole for the fuel pump ring....
2BE53B69-CE57-4287-9892-289047D51D67.jpeg


The tank is now ready for the welder including the roll-over valves...
313FE940-894D-4041-BB31-D301D86D2BB4.jpeg


Video of the tank modification ..
 
Last edited:
#51
A little progress on the build.

Modified engine shipping crate and made it into an engine stand...

Lifted the engine from the crate...
956B9F08-B32A-447B-A2EE-1AAEEA4FF094.jpeg


Modified it so I could mount accessories and have clearance for trans adapter plate. Also added wheels.
F9FB61E1-E9C2-4077-BF3F-B57BD731CD6E.jpeg



Attached the flywheel with factory LT4 flywheel bolts torqued to 11 lbs-ft, then 22 lbs-ft, then 45 degrees.

Made a bar to enable me to torque the bolts...
6406FA92-0ACF-40E8-9285-72B3F972C9A3.jpeg


Flywheel and Pilot bearing Installed. Pilot bearing seems loose so need to figure out how to address that. The flywheel may be coming back off, but here it is for now...
DA19CB40-2435-4FFE-81D2-92633A208551.jpeg


I received the LT4 dry sump version right after the new year. Since there are a few challenges that need addressing in order to fit the power plant in the SL-C, I wanted to tackle that early on in the build.

So the plan is...

1)Modify existing LS engine mount to work with an LT4 engine or fab up a new engine mount.
2)Elongate holes in rear engine mount brackets to get the trans plate to line up with the brackets.
3)Fabricate an intake adapter which clears the front frame cross member.
4)Possibly modify the front frame cross member to make room for the intake adapter.
5)Swap the mounting locations of the alternator and the AC compressor. The alternator is too wide and fouls the top frame rail. Once I get the engine in the car I can see if a high mounted AC compressor will work,
6)If the high mount A/C compressor clears the frame rail, fabricate an adapter to mount the AC compressor on the water pump bracket oringinally designed for the alternator. Will also need to either modify a low mount alternator bracket for the wet sump LT4 or custom make a mount bracket,

Here is a walk around of the LT4...

Here is part 2 of the walk around video after the crate was modified to be an engine stand.....
 
Last edited:
#54
I received the Graz from RCR a couple weeks ago and had it and the drop gears sent down to Ron McCall’s shop in Maryland. He installed the drop gears and also had his machinist install a bushing/shim to turn my slip fitting pilot bearing into a press fit. Ron was a pleasure to work with and is very knowledgeable and cummincative during the process. Thanks Ron!

One issue We ran into is that Graziano changed something in the trans which required one of the drop gears to have the top of the spline area recessed. Since I bought these gears before the change to the transaxle happened or was realized, one of the drop gears had to be modified.

Here is a pic of my gear which is made by Holinger and an HCFautosport gear which has the proper recess...
0940B709-018D-44D1-B2E7-13FAED26F65A.jpeg


Pic after machining, looks good...
92026CD5-CC15-4BE4-A984-BA3C41B032A1.jpeg


Here is a work in process pic of the drop gears installed...
2EB69519-506C-459B-A642-F2A95E8BB95B.jpeg


Here is a pic of the carbon fiber closeout panel Ron provides when he removes the 4wd shaft, very nicely done...
74F98EAC-3206-46C5-B7ED-B32BD49C634D.jpeg


Lastly, here is a pic of the pilot bearing shim installed. It gave me peace of mind vs. using loctite and dimpling the flywheel. Also nicely done...
19431979-115C-4672-A5B8-8911EEF144A3.jpeg


Links to Transaxle drop gear discussion videos....
Part1:

Part2:

Links to pilot bearing fitment discussion videos...

Part 1:

Part 2:


In the process of fabricating the front LT4 engine mount, just about done making the parts and that will be the next update.
 
Last edited:
Top