Keith Baker's Southern gt on the build

[René]

really a great build, love it.
Those dzus are those more for period look?

A while ago I saw those types, they come in different forms and colors etc, will something like those Quik-latches also be possible to use on a GT40? they look besides handy also great me thinks.

Quik-Latch.com Your Authorized Dealer For Quik-Latch Products

 

[EGLITOM]

They would probably fit, but would be difficult to operate. For the rear clip one would probably need a spring underneath which would support the weight of the rear clip thus avoiding that the QUicklatch is engaging again. Than if so one would need to press on both sides in the same time.
Dont think they are practical for our cars.

TOM

 

Have fitted a single pin on the front nostril that secures the nostril and canopy, looks tidy and pictures to follow when I have them .
The front indicators are located in the light Perspex there neons, white lens but bright orange from car builder solutions details on the web and not expensive.
You will need a suitable flasher relay though.

 

Took the car for it's first outing today. I knew there would be some items that would show up, and I wasn't wrong.
I got to the end of the road and the car stopped, it seemed to be lack of fuel, that's because all the fuel was coming out of the passenger side fuel filler.
I removed the locking cap and put the pumps onto the passenger tank and the level dropped and the car fired up.
I then found that a wire had come of the low pressure fuel pump switch.
The indicators didn't work now either.
I drove back home remade the spade connector connections and away I drove again.
This was after putting a new set of spark plugs in as there was a misfire.
All's well driving down the road and I can hear a light donk, donk , donk from somewhere and can't seem to find it yet, as the revs increase it gets noisier, nothing in the engine bay area so will have a look at the front of the engine around the pulleys.
Sounds awesome though and a guy in m3 was waving at me all the way down the road.
My road is littered with speed bumps and there's a clonking as I go over them but cant see any marks anywhere under the car. What I have done is put some red tank tape over a few items and will see if any has been scrapped off.

 

Picture of the nostril panel security pin, the pin is bolted into the ally panelling below and goes through the nostril. It also secures the front canopy. Not relying on the dzus clips.
Sanding aprox. 300 mm off the lip now allows the nostril to sit flat as well.

 

I originally had an electric omp fire system going into the car but when I looked at the date, it expired 3 years ago so decided not to use it.
I installed a cable operated type just in front of the passenger seat that if the cables failed to pull the handle I could just operate it from the drivers seat.
Ran the cables then the 8 mm tubing to the cockpit and into the engine bay.
Two jets aimed at the L.P. fuel pumps ,two at the injector area and two into the cockpit between the two seats at head height. Hopefully I'll never need it.
Replaced the clutch master cylinder as it had a leak and all seems better.

 

Can't send more than one picture at a time from the I pad so here's a few more

 

Another

 

Last picture

 

[Michel]

Hello Keith
Nicely done as usual !
Ready for track ........

Are you going to Lemans this Year ? if yes just come from St malo and visit "Bretagne" I would love to watch your car in real ( You will be my guess with good French food !!!)

 

Drove the car out yesterday locally,turned a few heads for sure.
Drove well, I had a small tapping noise 1st time it went out a few weeks ago, that turned out to be the speedo sensor loose and dropped onto the drive shaft bolts.
Click, click, click, no speedo and a new sensor needed.
I put a small 320mm steering wheel I had on but went back to the 380mm as it was a beast to turn at low speeds.
I have only one tank fuel gauge operating for both tanks via a switch and at present only works on the passenger tank. I think after checking it must be the sensor/ arm in the drivers tank that knackered.
Also I have got to investigate a bit further with the water tempreture readings, not sure if the sensor is compatible with the Smiths gauge. Need to ask SGT.
All in all I expect these little nuisance things and more, so be it.

Got to finish the dash panel but for now I fitted the fuel gauge changover switch

 

Just found that the fault is the sensor / arm on the fuel tank as I thought. Replaced it now.
I would recommend that anyone fitting these senders test them prior to sealing them in the tank, just connect the sender wires and move the arm full travel and watch the gauge.
Also very important if you are using smiths gauges,they are designed for 10 volts supplies, why I don't know as all cars are 12 - 13.5 volts. You must fit a voltage stabiliser. I have now on the water temp gauge and the readings are spot on.
I was reading 135 deg and the car was not hot, fitted the stabiliser and its just under 90 deg and sits on that all the time.
I will also wire in the fuel gauge and volts gauge shortly.
My advise is fit these stabiliser as soon as you can and there's no room under the dash, so a bit of extra wiring is required.

 

Another way to prove the stabiliser works , look at my last picture, link the two wires together and your back to 12volts the gauges go all over the place, back as they are now and the readings are ok.

 

[René]

you mean the green and blue cable? what about that second stabilizer were only one linked wire goes...how does that work...does not makes sense to me, but then I'm not a electrician

 

[EGLITOM]

Also very important if you are using smiths gauges,they are designed for 10 volts supplies, why I don't know as all cars are 12 - 13.5 volts. You must fit a voltage stabiliser. I have now on the water temp gauge and the readings are spot on.
My advise is fit these stabiliser as soon as you can and there's no room under the dash, so a bit of extra wiring is required.

Interesting. The old VW beetles use a 10 V stabiliser as well for their tank gauge. It is simply wired in series in the plus lead. and one connection(housing) to minus on ground.

Thanks
TOM

 

Sorry to confuse.
On the sgt the green wires are the live feeds to all the gauges but these are 12volts so basically run the gauge greens to the stabiliser in this case terminal B then terminal I back to the gauge, all it's doing is putting the stabiliser in the live feed thus reducing the volts to 10 volts.
The black wire in the picture is the earth but if the stabiliser is bolted to a good earth it's not needed, mines a just in case.
The stabiliser on the right is for other gauges.
You can only put 2 gauges on one stabiliser and I have three gauges.
If you have smiths gauges without the stabiliser you will be or already have wrong reading gauges.
If you put a volts meter on the green it's 12volts, on the blue it's 10volts

 

I think that the gauges are 10 volts to allow accurate readings just in case the battery runs low, for example you would not want to look at your fuel gauge and see you have fuel but a old worn battery , putting out a bit low volts and then to run out of fuel.
Perhaps that's why, someone may know the answer ?

 

[René]

thanks for explaining, sounds logical to my ears now.

also did some short search on the web and here they also give some explanation which also explains? why some TVR's have trouble with their dials readings I guess.

Classic Car Voltage Stabilizers | Semiconductor voltage stabilizers for classic cars

 

Well done with that info Rene , spot on.
For anyone using period smiths gauges, this is worth remembering.
It's much easier to fit stabilisers during the build as there's nowhere under the dash that you drill too easily when the dash is in and finished.

 

Found out that you dont need a stabiliser on the volts gauge only water temp, fuel and oil pressure
( if an electric pressure gauge ).
Best to use a capillary gauge for oil pressure in my opinion.