Kurt H (hoffkm) SL-C build thread

Nice interview Kurt, nice GTO beautiful restoration of a rear engine GTO, happy wife happy life. My wife and I had our 25th anniversary this month.
Post a picture of your 69 camaro. Now is my turn to go to the Colorado mountains to cool off.
 
I love the yellow . I had a POS 911 turbo the only thing I loved was the yellow paint . Lucky you . One of the most beautiful ageless automotive designs in my opinion .
 
Time to use my "phone a friend" lifeline.

OK, fitting the spider on the chassis and I need to some help. I have everything cut out for the coolant pipes and the spider is sitting in the grooves in the tub for alignment. I cannot get the front lower sections of the spider to fit underneath the aluminum side skirts on the chassis. First off I am scared to pull it out any further to get it to fit around without cracking the spider at the fragile windshield posts. The rear will pull out far enough to go but the front appears to be sitting up too high. The top of the spider is resting on the 4 x 6 aluminum cross member of the chassis that runs under the dash and the front two corners are resting on the front of the chassis. What am I missing? Do I need to grind down the underside of the spider (although to get enough clearance I think I would grind thru it?

Spider is resting on the chassis on both front corners:
2020-07-31 18.23.52.jpg


And is resting on the chassis cross member under the dash just outside of the roll bar mount:

2020-07-31 18.24.02.jpg




One other question, do the small cup holders at the rear sit on the top flange of the tub or should I clear out the tub so that the cup holders bolt directly to the chassis?
2020-07-31 18.24.25.jpg


Pictures do not really show what is going on, just included for reference of the areas I am talking about.

Other than this issue the coolant system in almost finished, I installed the spider to make sure my coolant expansion tank fits where I want it. It does not so I ordered a different one from Canton Racing Products, it arrived from Summit today so I have work to do this weekend. Next will be fitting the rear clam, fabricating the exhaust, and first start!!

2020-07-30 20.16.49.jpg

2020-07-30 20.16.57.jpg
 

Joel K

Supporter
Kurt, great progress. I am envious of how quickly you are putting your SLC together.

With regard to the body, it goes on top of the chassis. The side skirts go below the chassis. The manual I think states differently, but just about every builder including Allan puts the body on top. I think it has to do with the interior tub. Before that part existed you could put the body underneath, but not sure.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Check out Allan’s comments in this thread, post #8...

 
Thanks Joel, that clears it up for me. I was going by the manual, I will mount it up the way Allan does, I agree with what he says 100%. There is no way to pull the body out and under the chassis side skirts. I think it would be a challenge even without the interior tub from what I see.

Fit my new coolant tank today, and mocked up the exhaust with the rear clam fit in place after installing the body alignment pins. I am working in my shop again tomorrow since they are forecasting rain all weekend, I'll post up some progress picks later.
 

Joel K

Supporter
Kurt, regarding fitting the body. Johan’s build thread has some good pointers starting on post #49.

 
Over this weekend I have managed to spend some in my shop on the SL-C (it has been raining all weekend, not complaining, we need it).

1) Trial fit the spider
2) Trial fit the rear clam
3) Finished more of the coolant system plumbing routing for the expansion tank (more fittings on order, due to be here Tuesday)
4) Trial fit, polished, applied Sharkhyde, and partially mounted a Canton Racing two in one expansion and overflow tank (need some 1 1/2" angle to make some brackets, all I have around the shop is 1", more shopping to do). I like that this unit is both the expansion and overflow tanks in one. It is fairly compact and fits well beside the engine with about 1" of clearance on the top to the rear clam. It is about 1/2" away from the header but that will have to do.
5) Temporarily plumbed the oil cooler
6) Test fit the exhaust
7) Fabricated and mounted the exhaust. I angled the horizontal tail pipe and mufflers downward towards the exit to help prevent condensation from running back towards the engine. I stuck the muffler out the back of the rear clam so that they would not drip condensation on the rear clam. This has a portion of the muffler body sticking out of the rear clam but I like the look. I will mount mesh around the mufflers to give the hole in the clam a finished look. Once I know there are no leaks I will Cerakote the pipes and mufflers and wrap the rest of the pipes in header wrap.
8) Primed the oil pump on the engine in preparation for first start

2020-08-01 14.55.54.jpg
2020-08-01 15.08.54.jpg
2020-08-01 15.09.26.jpg
2020-08-02 15.15.24.jpg
2020-08-02 15.15.39.jpg
2020-08-02 16.08.55.jpg


I turned the motor over with the exhaust installed and I do believe this thing is going to be throaty and loud, just like I want it!!

The mufflers are Flowmaster Flow FX and are a straight thru glasspack design. I hope no little kids see those big opening as an invitation to stick a ball or something else down in there...........

Once the fittings come for the coolant tank I will finish the plumbing, run some temporary switches for starting the engine, double check everything, fill the tank with some fuel (just to get it above the lift pump sunction) and cross my fingers!!

To do list from the weekend for a later date:
1) figure out some muffler hangers, considering these welded to the mufflers and bolted into the crossbar over the exhaust: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-tphv6
2) figure out where and how to mount the oil cooler
3) get the rear clam hinge mocked up and working so I can verify the clam will clear the mufflers when it open. According to my CAD model it should but that is not 100% accurate.
 
Kurt, do you have the stock injectors on your Fast LSXR 102? The reason I ask is that I have the same, stock injectors and fuel rail and injector extension/adapters. The thing is the extensions only fits between the injector and manifold not between injector and fuel rail. It just seems odd to me considering spray pattern.
 
Kurt, do you have the stock injectors on your Fast LSXR 102? The reason I ask is that I have the same, stock injectors and fuel rail and injector extension/adapters. The thing is the extensions only fits between the injector and manifold not between injector and fuel rail. It just seems odd to me considering spray pattern.
Johan,

I am running stock LS2 injectors which are the proper length for the FAST intake, no spacers required.

I agree, that is odd the spacers install on the spray side of the injectors. One would think that would limit atomization unless the spray pattern widens up past the spacer.
 
Over this weekend I have managed to spend some in my shop on the SL-C (it has been raining all weekend, not complaining, we need it).

1) Trial fit the spider
2) Trial fit the rear clam
3) Finished more of the coolant system plumbing routing for the expansion tank (more fittings on order, due to be here Tuesday)
4) Trial fit, polished, applied Sharkhyde, and partially mounted a Canton Racing two in one expansion and overflow tank (need some 1 1/2" angle to make some brackets, all I have around the shop is 1", more shopping to do). I like that this unit is both the expansion and overflow tanks in one. It is fairly compact and fits well beside the engine with about 1" of clearance on the top to the rear clam. It is about 1/2" away from the header but that will have to do.
5) Temporarily plumbed the oil cooler
6) Test fit the exhaust
7) Fabricated and mounted the exhaust. I angled the horizontal tail pipe and mufflers downward towards the exit to help prevent condensation from running back towards the engine. I stuck the muffler out the back of the rear clam so that they would not drip condensation on the rear clam. This has a portion of the muffler body sticking out of the rear clam but I like the look. I will mount mesh around the mufflers to give the hole in the clam a finished look. Once I know there are no leaks I will Cerakote the pipes and mufflers and wrap the rest of the pipes in header wrap.
8) Primed the oil pump on the engine in preparation for first start

I turned the motor over with the exhaust installed and I do believe this thing is going to be throaty and loud, just like I want it!!

The mufflers are Flowmaster Flow FX and are a straight thru glasspack design. I hope no little kids see those big opening as an invitation to stick a ball or something else down in there...........

Once the fittings come for the coolant tank I will finish the plumbing, run some temporary switches for starting the engine, double check everything, fill the tank with some fuel (just to get it above the lift pump sunction) and cross my fingers!!

To do list from the weekend for a later date:
1) figure out some muffler hangers, considering these welded to the mufflers and bolted into the crossbar over the exhaust: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-tphv6
2) figure out where and how to mount the oil cooler
3) get the rear clam hinge mocked up and working so I can verify the clam will clear the mufflers when it open. According to my CAD model it should but that is not 100% accurate.
Reinforce the actual metal brace for the tail. My nuts were spot welded and when tail was open a spot weld snapped which caused rest to do the same and dropped the freshly painted tail... on it's face.
 
Reinforce the actual metal brace for the tail. My nuts were spot welded and when tail was open a spot weld snapped which caused rest to do the same and dropped the freshly painted tail... on it's face.
Del,

Thank you for the heads up. The nuts on my bracket are tig welded on two sides. I still plan to remove them and replace the mail threaded rod ends with female threaded rod ends bolted thru the bracket. I will use spacers to set the location.
 
Attempted “first start” today but to no avail. Holley Terminator system is all setup and all sensors are working properly. My low pressure pump is filling the swirl pot no problems but the high pressure pump is not feeding any fuel to the fuel rail. You cannot even smell fuel in the HP fuel line. It is either a bad pump or bad regulator. I ran out of time today to troubleshoot it. Now I can’t wait to get out in my shop again!! (Hopefully Wednesday) Hoping for something simple that I either missed or screwed up. Should be easy to figure out (as long as I did not just jinx myself).
 
Del,

Thank you for the heads up. The nuts on my bracket are tig welded on two sides. I still plan to remove them and replace the mail threaded rod ends with female threaded rod ends bolted thru the bracket. I will use spacers to set the location.
Good deal, just making sure! I should have clarified, mine were also TIG welded on 2 spots and that's what failed.
 
Well, my fuel problem was something simple that I did wrong. After dis-assembling everything and testing each component on the bench I discovered I had the polarity backwards on the pump. It was not marked on the pump and I went by the instructions (first mistake). Switched the terminals and BOOM, plenty of flow out of the pump.

Here is my much anticipated first start. This video is not staged, it is the actual first time turning the engine over. It took right off and actually startled me. I expected it to crank for a while before firing. You will here something VERY metallic rubbing. I shut things down right away because of that. I was able to verify that I have good oil pressure and good fuel pressure before shutting it off (both at 60 psi). The rubbing has a "ring" to it when I shut the engine off so I think it is either the flex plate rubbing something, the flywheel rubbing, or the starter is not disengaging.


Does anyone know if there are any special instructions, gaps to check, etc. when installing the RCR G96-01 to LS adapter kit?



Next week is the last of our weekly Tuesday night car shows in my hometown for this summer (where has the summer gone??). I am planning to trailer the SL-C up to show it off in it's current "in process" state. I spent the rest of tonight getting her back on the ground off the jack stands. I also rough fit the ceiling and door panels in the interior to get a feel for how that is going to work out. Pretty happy with how those pieces fit together. The body fit is pretty darn good with no shimming whatsoever so far. I am certain I will be doing some shimming once I trial fit the windshield.

2020-08-12 21.16.58.jpg

2020-08-12 21.17.22.jpg

2020-08-12 21.17.11.jpg


I forgot just how low this thing is!! It has been up on jackstands so I can work on it easier for the last 6 months.

(air filter is mounted direct to the throttle body temporarily. I have a tube to extend it out, it just needs some fab work.
 
Top