Okay, here's the first part of how to install the whole shebang (for automotive retards such as myself :stunned: ). the one thing I learned is don't ask people how to do it, lol - everybody is doing their own thing ... pressing in bushings backwards, pressing stuff onto the crank, torquing to 50ft-lbs over spec, etc... etc... Alex is skurrrrrrrrred for some of you.....
1 - Remove flex plate from engine
the flex plate is held on by 6 recessed bolts in the center of the engine. Remove these 6 bolts (center of flexplate/engine) and pull off the flex plate. it doesn't seem to have much market value and takes ages to sell, so i say junk it
2 - Clean out the holes of any debris, loctite, etc...
3 - Insert the 5 M10x1.5x60mm (Grade 10.9) bolts that will attach the adapter plate to the transaxle. If you forget to insert them you have to remove everything and start again when it's all torqued up because their inaccessible when it's all together
4 - Install adapter plate to LS engine - 5 M10x1.5x35mm (grade 12.9 .... apparently socket caps only come in 8.8 or 12.9 plated, no 10.9 plated socket heads); use anti-seize (aluminum heads) and torque to 37-40ft-lbs
5 - Prepare the flywheel. The factory gives a bronze bushing - have it pressed in, from the transaxle side, and have it sit 60-80thousands below the surface of the flywheel (transaxle side).
Marc told me that they had a bad batch of bronze bushings at one time ... apparently if you got a bad one it'll fail within 10miles or so. I have bad luck so I figured it would happen to me so I opted to replace the bronze bushing with a bearing - after talking w/ others who've used both, apparently the bearing gives a smoother shift, so it's a win-win to use it?
If you want to use the bearing, goto Ford and buy a '2005 Ford GT Pilot bearing'. I think the part number is F6ZZ7600-A. I have no idea if the mustang bearing is the same, but whatever - the part was $15.
Then take your flywheel and bearing to an automotive machine shop and have them machine the flywheel such that the bearing can be pressed into the flywheel (from the transaxle side) and sit 60-80 thousands below the lip).
Note that the bearing is the same dimensions (as far as I can tell) as the bronze bushing, except one end of it (the transaxle side) has a fatter lip. The flywheel must be machined in such a way that the fat lip will sit below the surface, but the rest of the bearing is press fit into the original hole. Apparently it's fairly easy to do - cost me $40.
6 - Install flywheel. 6 factory bolts (apparently they're a bastard thread and only GM or ARP carries them). At GM, the flex plate bolts are also the same bolts used on the flywheels, so you can reuse yours. Coat bolts in blue loctite (I use loctite quicktape - way better than the liquid imho) and torque to 74ft-lbs in a star pattern (1,4, 2,5,3,6) in multiple steps - tight, 20ft-lbs, 40ft-lbs, 55ft-lbs, 74ft-lbs. On the last step make certain you don't stop mid-torque to re-adjust the wrench, otherwise you can suffer from breakaway torque (where you undertorque because you need a bit of torque to get the bolt moving again). I found it useful to have somebody hold the flywheel so it can't turn
Okay, now to figure out HTF the clutch installs
