Mark Reid RCR-40 Build

[Sandy]

Im not sure that the Lokar throttle cable will have stretched, its more likely that the outer braided sheathing will have compressed or shortened slightly giving the impression that the inner cable has stretched.

And I just re-read the comment too -

...The Lokar is too stiff and it has stretched a coupe of times already and I haven't even driven the car, yet!

When you mean too stiff is that from a routing the cable perspective? I have one of much shorter lenght on another car and it is very smooth and bendy enough. I have the carb facing the single 4bbl way like this -

If you think it would reach I would be interested in the cable if your not going to use it.

Sandy

 

[John P]

For a high quality cable, the Chassis Shop has Morse cables up to 20' long.
810-20 - 20' STANDARD CABLE at The Chassis Shop

 

[Jack]

Morse cables are of high quality. I have been specifying them on boat designs for years. See Teleflex/Morse, West Marine, etc.

 

[Randy V]

Morse cables are of high quality. I have been specifying them on boat designs for years. See Teleflex/Morse, West Marine, etc.

But how flexible are they and how much resistance to movement is there??
Technically you want a throttle cable that's smooth as silk and requires very little effort to move within it's sleeve...

 

[Jack]

Of course the minimum bend radius depends upon the cable (wire and case) diameter. The Morse HD control cables (such as shift cables) require a large radius to operate smoothly. Some of the lighter cables that could be used for throttle applications will take a three-inch bend easily, providing smooth operation. Particulars may be found on teleflex/morse web site. Give them a call, thier tech guy's are very helpful. Not an endorsement, just info & experience.

 

[MReid]

I have not had a lot of time for the GT40 recently, but Mike and I worked on it for a couple of hours today. He was complainng that he hadn't heard it run since I fixed the idle issue. I also got a new video camera for my Birthday, so here you go:



Here are a couple of pictures in the sun (she looks great!):

 

[MReid]

I also didn't like the hood retaining pins sticking through the rear clip, so I came up with a different approach. I got two sets of 1968 VW hood latches. They are well made and very cheap! Just over $30 for a pair of pins and latches from Airhead Parts. I made a mounting plate out of a piece of angle aluminum and mounted the pin in a slot cut in the aluminum. The pins come with a large square threaded retainer on the back that the angle aluminum holds in place so you can tighten it from the front, yet still slide the pin side to side for adjustment:

Fran made me these mounts for the pins powdercoated the same color as my chassis. I cut a recessed area and mounted the latch (pin receiver). It has a self centering feature and is cable operated:

Next week, I'll mount these and install the cable, slaving the two together. It will help keep the rear clip in exact alignment and provide a bit of security (I cringe everytime I think of poor Dean and his rear clip incident - sorry to remind you buddy). I'll post some more pictures when it is all done.

 

[Randy V]

Dang it Mark.....

Now that I'm sportin' a "BILLET" - The wife's gonna think I've been lookin' at girlz on the Internet!!!!

Sounds so SWEET!!!!!!


-------

Nice work on the latches.... I'd like to use a hidden system like that but having had a cable break on my 1969 Corvette once and spending a couple of days figuring out how to get the hood open without a Sawzall - well - once bitten, twice shy... Even though I KNOW it would never happen again....

 

Mark,
do I see a "Top Flight" P47 ?

 

[Allen English]

Great looking car Mark! Sounds awesome too.

 

[RMH]

That's why Ron was looking @ the those brackets ??? Sounds good Mark !I hope you can get her done in time so we can take a fall cruise ? You should also add the gas pistons to the rear clip. Besides easy up & down movement , once opened the pistons hold it & when you close the clip they hold most of the weight so it can't slam shut .:thumbsup:

 

[RMH]

Big Foot , so how did you get your 69 Vette hood open ? I have a 65 Coupe & now I'm worried about those 43 year old cables ? :stunned:

 

[RMH]

Mark here is a picture of the latch pull on the BDR GT. There is a pull on each side so it does not slave together ? Once the clip is down you push down on the body @ each pin & then it locks down in place.

 

[Randy V]

Big Foot , so how did you get your 69 Vette hood open ? I have a 65 Coupe & now I'm worried about those 43 year old cables ? :stunned:

It was the cross-over cable that broke. The release cable was still connected to the left side and it would release the left side but the hood was so stiff that I could not lift it enough to get anything all the way over to the right side to pull the release lever..

I ended up dropping the starter and exhaust system on the right side before I could sneak a hook up there to pull on the release lever.. I'm just glad that I had time on my side to do the job.

Of course in the process of doing that I snapped 2 of the three exhaust manifold studs.. :veryangry:

On the good side, I found that the starter was in the process of falling apart (one thru bolt was missing and the other loose)... This was back in about 77-78 so the car was not that old (69)..

I've been thinking more about these releases.. If a fella were to have one release rod per side coming straight through the rear bulkhead - that should pretty well eliminate the snapped cable potential...

EDIT - I see RMH posted since I started mine.. RE: Individual releases.. Must not be a bad idea!

 

[Mesa]

Thanks for the vid Mark, that thing sounds wicked. I think you'll scare more would be competition than actually have to race them. Fran includes latches like that in the SLC, I have not yet taken the time to figure out how to attach them to the body. There is no double interior panel for the striker to bolt to like you 40s have.

 

[RMH]

Randy , I would have about the same process if the cable failed on my 65 Coupe. I think I'll order a new cable set for a winter project . The pulls are right behind each latch on the BDR GT. There are also access plates so you could release them if they failed . I agree with Randy & I think the car is set up with 2 pulls as an extra saftey feature. Although they really lock in tight when you set them in plus you have the bottom latches on each side .:thumbsup:

 

[Rob]

Hey Mark,
Congrats.....sounds wicked..!!!
One word of caution....you may want to place a piece of cardboard behind the tail pipes so you don't damage your paint.

 

[Ron Randall]

Mark now thats what a GT-40 should sound like:shocked:

FRPguy-- The plane is a Yellow Aircraft aluminum plated with our process and we did the paint work too.

 

[TimB]

It was the cross-over cable that broke. The release cable was still connected to the left side and it would release the left side but the hood was so stiff that I could not lift it enough to get anything all the way over to the right side to pull the release lever..

I ended up dropping the starter and exhaust system on the right side before I could sneak a hook up there to pull on the release lever.. I'm just glad that I had time on my side to do the job.

Of course in the process of doing that I snapped 2 of the three exhaust manifold studs.. :veryangry:

On the good side, I found that the starter was in the process of falling apart (one thru bolt was missing and the other loose)... This was back in about 77-78 so the car was not that old (69)..

I've been thinking more about these releases.. If a fella were to have one release rod per side coming straight through the rear bulkhead - that should pretty well eliminate the snapped cable potential...

EDIT - I see RMH posted since I started mine.. RE: Individual releases.. Must not be a bad idea!

Randy,

I don't know if this type of latch would be a possibility. These are what the E type Jag's juse. Solid rod actuated

in this picture the interior handle is in the lower left of the picture

 

[bob peckham]

Mark, sent you a pm thanks Bob