McCopy mk 5

Hi Russell, I suspect the errors are due to your camber change on bump and droop, i made a Guage years ago that worked great it was two pieces of plywood big enough to cover the wheel rim , one piece sat on the floor with a weight on it, the other piece attached with three small hinges and formed an L shape. on the verticle piece that was about 3 inches from the rim it had a bolt with a lock nut that leaned against one outer edge of the rim the other side had a a dial tester leaning on the other side of the rim to measure any changes in toe, i think you will find the fore and aft movement of the rack has a greater effect on Ackerman ,on your setup is the inner pivot on the rack in line with the line drawn through the inner top and bottom mounting point , alot of suspensions I have looked at recently the rack inner joint is towards the wheel by about 40mm not on the line through the top and bottom inner pivots. if you get stuck give me a call two heads are always better with the Guage on the side it can bend at the hinge and so follow in and out as your camber changes as the wheel rises and falls .
Last edited:
Yes there is camber change due to the suspension arms being unequal, I just need to talk to LVVTA to find out what sort of tolerance they accept as I have ride and bump acceptable.
Have you still got that 4k chassis set up?


Hi Russel
I concur with Graeme, the biggest change in toe will come from the rack height and width.
To get near zero, you’ll need a combination of both and a truck load of time…
A rack height change of 0.010” will make a difference in toe.
I made a rack mount that could be shimmed (using std tie rod ends for road use) and gradually widened and shortened the rack until I was happy.

Used a board similar to what Graeme described, here’s a few pictures of it from my build thread

Hi Russ mate toe out on full droop i wouldnt be to concerned about. as long as its minimal on bump, but in saying that it can be used on bump as a tuning aid, depending on your driving style as it will promote a slight under steer, or push for you other blokes after initial turn in, the 23 im putting together has about 4mm total of toe out at full bump and thats as good as i can get it but i'm happy enough as it suits me and the way i drive.
to be honest i think a lot of the time to much emphasis is put on its eradication like its the plague or something, where as it can be quite usefull.
cheers john
Thanks John, I rang LVVT and they were very helpful, got a 17 page doco that explains what where how and who!. I have just ordered new shorter steering rods as I was screwed-in hard and run out of adjustment. Starting to get my head around what to do so shed time will cure it.
Cheers Russell
Rear clip molded and removable spoiler molded on rear, and yes it popped off ready to be tidied up and refitted as per original. There are a few details now to be added like the side scoops etc, so only the nose to do next after a bit of a break, laid up the tail in about 2 work in a mask.


Well after all that, it fits. now to tidy it up and add the side scoops, fabricate the body mounts, fit the rear grills and brake ducts. The Toyota 1UZ is a different shape but fortunately fits in the hole where the Rover previously sat.
Thursday will be mold the front clip day which will be that last major part.


Because I did not fit the air intakes into my mold, they are added after. That made the mold so much simpler. They scoop is molded in a folded aluminium tray, cut to shape and bonded in place.
The rear clip is also now mounted and can be tilted for engine access.


Beautiful work, Russell.

To create the removable rear spoiler, it looks like you laminated over a wood core. Is this correct? If so, is the core balsa or another type of wood?

Thank you for documenting your progress. I learn something useful every time I read your posts.

Jack, really nice piece of light pine, as its a road car I had the option of waiting a couple of days to spend some more dollars buying high strength foam or just go for it. So a few coats of wax, rip up the pine in the bench saw ans stick it in place with bondo fil. Then mask it out and throw on some chopped strand matt and after hardening it popped off. I used woven cloth last time and was slower to get a good surface so just stuck with good old polyester this time....and elbo grease.
It would have been nice to have all the elements in the mold but as it was only ever going to be a limited number number being pulled from it (3) counting this one I opted for simplicity. I also round the nose front each side of the radiator inlet where there are brake duct inlets.
I have been able to do all the molding at home without any complaints from family due to the smell, Had to send them shopping one day.

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
Nice work Russell. Hopefully this year I'm going to fab up the M8A spoiler. I've got the foam do do it, but my only hesitation is how to ensure the forces it is exposed to does not try to twist if off the back. Any wisdom on reinforcement at the bend to the horizontal part? Thinking about some aluminum back there, but these things are pretty thin, so that doesn't leave me with many options on reinforcement. I'm planning on using 1/2" foam, so with the glass and finishing, it will probably be about 3/4" thick, which seems to align with photos that I've seen. Thought about going the lazy route and making one out of aluminum, but that wouldn't fit right in my mind. I'm going to go with the original size, so it's gonna be a big sail back there. The originals were two piece, correct?
Terry the original was only two piece because the mechanics hand carried them on the flight from England to the US so they cut them in half to be small enough. Nice work Russell how far away from running it are you.

Cheers Leon

Terry Oxandale

Skinny Man
I have Rod, but I think that maybe I'm overthinking this. Also, the weakness I'm concerned about is more about fastening it to the bodywork. Lastly, closer examination of the few photos I have of the "A" spoiler, I think I see where the thickness increases as it gets closer to the root on the back side. That would address my concerns more than anything else.

Leon, always love hearing this kind of trivia...thanks. I always imagined it was because it could'nt be fitted onto the care as a single piece.
Terry, I suspect over-engineering in your thought process, When I made my first one, I molded it on the buck as it seemed like a good idea. When it came to fitting it, it was about 5 to 6 mm wider....the body had shrunk that much in curing so I had to cut it in two just like the original. That one was made from some high density foam scraps and molded using woven cloth tape which was harder to sand smooth. As above this one is using `hi tech` pine and its very strong once skinned. Because you end up with a perfect fit, when you glue and rivet it in place it becomes immensely strong yet still shows the detail of being a riveted on component. Just mock up some timber segments to see what sort of dimension you end up with.
Leone, not sure of finish date other than I hope this year. I am sometimes, time rich...others! Carol is on week 9 of 18 weeks chemo (4th round) so that is the controlling factor. I will confess that its been our saving grace to be able to hide in the shed and think of other stuff.
I am still at sea trying to get my bump steer sorted, I left it to get the glass work molded whilst we had warm days and the next big task is to wire it up and figure out the computor. All in all, progress has been better than anticipated. I just had my hand brake cables custom made by a crowd called Melbar Cables in CHCH. Happy to say they did a perfect job probably cheaper that genuine parts.
I should delve back into the bump steer next month once I learne a few new swear words.
Truth is I want it done this year as I am scouting around for parts for my next project..a Volopini Formula Junior replica....just cos I can.