Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Thanks Jack! (and also for the guide coat post).
Ox
Ox
McLaren replica build base on a Manta
- Thread starter blueovalz
- Start date
Terry,
Four (4) inches of clearance is kind of tight. I'd suggest an infra-red thermometer to shoot the outside temp when it's idling. Paint likes to bubble at high temps. Likewise, a thermocouple in the inside would help to measure peak temperatures before the FG starts to melt/burn. Knowing that interior temperature should tip you off to future fuel boiling/vapor lock problems. The Manta I got a ride in, many years ago, had a 400+HP custom built engine and it got hot. It's always hard to drive these Mantas slow. Large CO2 fire extinguishers are always nice to carry with you.
Best regards,
CJR
Four (4) inches of clearance is kind of tight. I'd suggest an infra-red thermometer to shoot the outside temp when it's idling. Paint likes to bubble at high temps. Likewise, a thermocouple in the inside would help to measure peak temperatures before the FG starts to melt/burn. Knowing that interior temperature should tip you off to future fuel boiling/vapor lock problems. The Manta I got a ride in, many years ago, had a 400+HP custom built engine and it got hot. It's always hard to drive these Mantas slow. Large CO2 fire extinguishers are always nice to carry with you.
Best regards,
CJR
Terry,
I would suggest you look at Chucks post for how he handled his problem with the exhaust near the paint. It works. I am doing something similar. Also see what high HP and fiberglass will do to your paint below. Mine was less than 4 inches, no insulation and the guys running the engine were setting the EFI and didn't run the rear clip fans. With the fender additions and other issues, I need a repaint badly. I didn't add the insulation til just the other day.
We are guessing my HP is 500+, will know in a week or two when I solve my clutch problem. Chuck and I also went the route of adding a set of 5" fans in the rear clip area to help with the cool down after driving.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/13742-drb-5-a-5.html Check out post 92. I installed an off delay timer from Waytek that lets the fans run for 3 minutes after shutoff. Stainless exhaust cool down quickly. Moving the heat is the key. I may add the water pump and fans as well later on.
Bill
I would suggest you look at Chucks post for how he handled his problem with the exhaust near the paint. It works. I am doing something similar. Also see what high HP and fiberglass will do to your paint below. Mine was less than 4 inches, no insulation and the guys running the engine were setting the EFI and didn't run the rear clip fans. With the fender additions and other issues, I need a repaint badly. I didn't add the insulation til just the other day.
We are guessing my HP is 500+, will know in a week or two when I solve my clutch problem. Chuck and I also went the route of adding a set of 5" fans in the rear clip area to help with the cool down after driving.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-build-logs/13742-drb-5-a-5.html Check out post 92. I installed an off delay timer from Waytek that lets the fans run for 3 minutes after shutoff. Stainless exhaust cool down quickly. Moving the heat is the key. I may add the water pump and fans as well later on.
Bill
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Thanks for all the great ideas, tips, and advice. It almost makes me want to go back down with the tubes, but I've no place to do that with the dry sump in the way on one side. It looks like fans, and insulation will be the call on this one.
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Work is almost at a standstill due to several tears in the rotator cuff muscles and tendons. But prior to yesterday's surgery, I was able to gather enough nerve,time, and pain medication to cut a hole in the engine cover for the ITB opening. The final length of the stack will end up being about 3" shorter than shown here.
I'm almost looking forward to the colder weather as an excuse to get back onto the mechanical work, and off the fiberglass.
I'm almost looking forward to the colder weather as an excuse to get back onto the mechanical work, and off the fiberglass.
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Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Acting like I'm half my age, grappling, and pulled out of a triangle when it ripped. Everybody in the dojo heard it tear. I think from here on, I'm limiting myself to the stand-up kick-boxing activities, and leave the groundwork to the kids.
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Yeah Jack, the minute you start giving in, it goes away fast. How long was it before you could throw an elbow again?
Sorry to hear your not as young as you thought you were mate, We old er fellows tend to be like that. I went on a school camp in August and gave blood evry day trying to do the stuff my 12yr old was doing. The last day was at a Luge park and of corse the dads were racing and yes I had the BIG off and came home with both armes in bandages, skin off everywhere, Legs, arms and arse and my wife just shook her head and asked if I was racing (Yes) and Did I learn anything (yes, don't race with guys who don't look when they pull out) I don't think that was the right answer cos she just shook her head again.
Anyway the car is looking good mate and looking forward to a photo with all the stacks on, are you going to stagger them or keep even heights?? Cheers leon
Anyway the car is looking good mate and looking forward to a photo with all the stacks on, are you going to stagger them or keep even heights?? Cheers leon
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Thanks Leon. Keeping the same height, presumedly because all head ports and runners are identical.
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
The latter. By the time I finish this thing, and the small amount of mileage that will be put on it, It would kill be to ruin the visual impact of the stacks by using proper filtration just so the motor will last longer than I will. Being under glass is one thing, and if I ever develop a hard-top, then yes, proper filtration will be developed. Until then, it's gonna be screened stacks.
You're right, the visual efect is what you want, If you have some photos of Bruces M8A at the 68 Las Vegas Can-Am it had a cover over the stacks made of a fine mesh. I'm guessing they were concerned about debris getting in the stacks if you did some off roading in the desert although they didn't do it on Denny's car??
Cheers Leon
Cheers Leon
Terry Oxandale
Skinny Man
Visually, the progress would appear to be non-existent, but progress is being made. Unfortunately, I had a pretty nasty series of tears on my rotator cuff and long bicep, and the resulting surgery, is slowing me down, but the progress has been focused to those nagging under-body features that are critical to ‘fit and finish’ excellence. For example, once the ‘shell’ was finished, then the wheel wells or internal shields were bonded in place to keep rocks and debris from being thrown up into the engine and radiator area as well as add stiffness to the shell. Also, hinge mounting and latching mechanism mounting surfaces need to be fabricated. Gaps needed to be addressed, and then locating pins installed to maintain them. And then there is the issue of adjustments (changes) to bodywork that may deviate just slightly (depending on one’s point of view) from the M8 series, that are either much easier to implement (than copy more accurately), or produce a more pleasing appearance.
The doors have been particularly challenging. I’m not a big fan of the OEM McLaren door hinge location, but due to the 3-part body (front/door/rear), the oil cooler locations, and my attempt to maintain some amount of connection to the M8 body, I found I needed to go ahead and hinge the doors at the bottom of the door (OEM config). Doing this has its issues in making for a clean, lightweight, and effective latching/release system. Inserting a 4th body part that separates the door from the rear shell would have allowed a more conventionally hinged door, and perhaps easier ingress/egress, but the doors width and depth prevent anything other than rotating straight out and down.
The doors have been particularly challenging. I’m not a big fan of the OEM McLaren door hinge location, but due to the 3-part body (front/door/rear), the oil cooler locations, and my attempt to maintain some amount of connection to the M8 body, I found I needed to go ahead and hinge the doors at the bottom of the door (OEM config). Doing this has its issues in making for a clean, lightweight, and effective latching/release system. Inserting a 4th body part that separates the door from the rear shell would have allowed a more conventionally hinged door, and perhaps easier ingress/egress, but the doors width and depth prevent anything other than rotating straight out and down.
