Newbie Budget Questions?
- Thread starter csbuceo
- Start date
Welcome to the GT40s forums..
Transmissions - Body & Paint - These is are HUGE variables on any car...
If you intend on doing any track work or want to romp on it with little fear of breaking something - I would advise a stronger transmission than the Audi boxes. You can get into a Porsche transaxle for a few thousand and all the way up to 15k for a fully built trans that's capable of surviving track duty on a regular basis.
Clutches are similar to the Transaxle.
Engine - Crate motors with a single carburetor are a cheaper and more simple way to get in the game. If you want something a bit more exotic, well, you'll pay accordingly..
Then there's how much work you are going to farm out to a shop vs. how much work you can / will do yourself..
I'd talk to Fran about your Transaxle choice. He has a number of them there and at good prices! The Ricardo is probably the one I would chose if I were to do it all over again..
Hi Chris,
I think the best way to come up with the price on an RCR product and the options you want is to give Fran a call. He can help you decide the best fit for you. I know that there are several people that went with the Porsche trans and are happy with it. Even with my build there are several things I want to do to personalize it my way. Buy his deluxe kit to start with then the hard part is to decide on the engine - induction - trans - paint. A paint job will probably be between 10 and 25k depending on if you want a show car or a very nice car that you can use. I prefer to use my car since it is a replica and nothing more. I figure the low end at 80K. I could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time for sure.
Welcome to the group.
I think the best way to come up with the price on an RCR product and the options you want is to give Fran a call. He can help you decide the best fit for you. I know that there are several people that went with the Porsche trans and are happy with it. Even with my build there are several things I want to do to personalize it my way. Buy his deluxe kit to start with then the hard part is to decide on the engine - induction - trans - paint. A paint job will probably be between 10 and 25k depending on if you want a show car or a very nice car that you can use. I prefer to use my car since it is a replica and nothing more. I figure the low end at 80K. I could be wrong and it wouldn't be the first time for sure.
Welcome to the group.
Hi Chris,
+1 for Allen's perspective. I think the $80K ballpark is reasonable for the low-average range. Given your 400HP range and "daily driver - non-track" use, crate engines and transaxle choices will be somewhat less expensive. The fit and initial finish of Fran's bodywork is quite good (Look at Alex's polished gelcoat on his SL-C) which will translate into less prep time (time=money) for the body shop. You probably wouldn't need to consider roll cages, dry sumps, big brakes and the like for a street car. I agree to go for the Deluxe version. But figure in some upholstery work unless your skilled at that part of the build.
Time: I visited a nationally renowned custom hot rod shop in little Cumby Texas recently and yesterday I spoke with one of his potential clients. This shop does hot rods, many destined for the show circuits, all metal bodies only. Their work is outstanding. The owner said there is a TWO YEAR waiting list to get your car back! His shop is absolutely full of original bodied hot rods in all states of completion and he has a large staff of skilled workers scurrying around his shop. The potential client is much like the majority of builders on this site, history of working at a Porsche dealership, semi-retired with time on his hands, not an unlimited budget, used to own a 41 coupe and now wants a custom 41. He thought "well if it takes this guy in Cumby two years before I get my car back, I can get the job done before then". Wrong! He has been at it for five years now.
But is he dis-satisfied? No. The "journey" is just as rewarding as the finished project. I showed him my SL-C project, body off, parts everywhere, welding table with scraps of aluminum, etc. He instantly could relate to why I am still satisfied with my "turtle-slow" progress because it's MY journey. So, I guess I want to say "the importance of build time is over-rated".
+1 for Allen's perspective. I think the $80K ballpark is reasonable for the low-average range. Given your 400HP range and "daily driver - non-track" use, crate engines and transaxle choices will be somewhat less expensive. The fit and initial finish of Fran's bodywork is quite good (Look at Alex's polished gelcoat on his SL-C) which will translate into less prep time (time=money) for the body shop. You probably wouldn't need to consider roll cages, dry sumps, big brakes and the like for a street car. I agree to go for the Deluxe version. But figure in some upholstery work unless your skilled at that part of the build.
Time: I visited a nationally renowned custom hot rod shop in little Cumby Texas recently and yesterday I spoke with one of his potential clients. This shop does hot rods, many destined for the show circuits, all metal bodies only. Their work is outstanding. The owner said there is a TWO YEAR waiting list to get your car back! His shop is absolutely full of original bodied hot rods in all states of completion and he has a large staff of skilled workers scurrying around his shop. The potential client is much like the majority of builders on this site, history of working at a Porsche dealership, semi-retired with time on his hands, not an unlimited budget, used to own a 41 coupe and now wants a custom 41. He thought "well if it takes this guy in Cumby two years before I get my car back, I can get the job done before then". Wrong! He has been at it for five years now.
But is he dis-satisfied? No. The "journey" is just as rewarding as the finished project. I showed him my SL-C project, body off, parts everywhere, welding table with scraps of aluminum, etc. He instantly could relate to why I am still satisfied with my "turtle-slow" progress because it's MY journey. So, I guess I want to say "the importance of build time is over-rated".
Chris,
I totally agree with Allen and Doc. Purchase the deluxe package, go with a crate engine and choose your gearbox to handle it. I'm performing 90% of the work myself
and have found it to be an increadible journey. My philosophy is that "when it's done, it's done". Build time directly relates to how much work you farm out, and budget. Fortunately, I can do almost all of the work myself (including body and paint). My interior will be simple and tasteful using CF overlays on some parts and a bit of flocking elsewhere. $80K ballpark is reasonable, I have a tad over $70K in my car with almost everything on hand to finish up. Add taxes and registration and it will be close to the $80K.
I totally agree with Allen and Doc. Purchase the deluxe package, go with a crate engine and choose your gearbox to handle it. I'm performing 90% of the work myself
and have found it to be an increadible journey. My philosophy is that "when it's done, it's done". Build time directly relates to how much work you farm out, and budget. Fortunately, I can do almost all of the work myself (including body and paint). My interior will be simple and tasteful using CF overlays on some parts and a bit of flocking elsewhere. $80K ballpark is reasonable, I have a tad over $70K in my car with almost everything on hand to finish up. Add taxes and registration and it will be close to the $80K.
So true. If you're not in a hurry to have the car tomorrow, it's (imho) much more fun to build one than to drive one that's been built for you
Howard Jones
Supporter
One bit of advice. Completely finish the decision and related study of the transaxle issue first. Then build the car around that decision. Why you ask? Up grading the gearbox later is just about the hardest thing you can do. And very expensive. I would advise spending the money necessary to install a gearbox that will standup to 400 ft/lb on dot slicks. This would be a G50 Porsche, Recardo, ZF class gearbox.
Also spend the extra money on a limmited slip. 400HP will spin one tire all day long in a 2500 pound car on street tires. This will create a power over steer experiance every time you boot it off a corner.
Paint. My car has about 15K miles on it over about 6 years, If I had spent $20,000 on a paint job I would be sick. These cars are so low that everything hits the paint that comes up from the road. That clear coating milar would have helped save my paintjob and it's worth looking into. Hold down the paint cost unless you figure that you will be happy seeing it beat up pretty bad in the first 10K miles on the road. By the way, you can do your own body prep. Really!
It's not all that much fun but it's not rocket science, just a lot of labor. Thats why it costs so much. Give it several months and a few 100 hours and then have someone paint it for you. You can cut the body/paint cost by 2/3's.
Back to gearbox. If the flywheel that comes with the motor you buy (crate) will work with the bellhousing that is required by the gearbox choice then fine. IF YOU USE a flywheel from any other scorce then rebalance the rotating assembly with the new flywheel. This is a near complete engine disassembly. Not hard or difficult but it must be done. Don't let anyone convince you otherwise. Ballance work isn't much money really.
Add about $300-400 to the cost of the motor + gasket set and it will live a long happy life. You will more than likely be able to reuse the rings and bearings if you take it apart before you run it. A nice set of ARP rod bolts would be a nice smart touch.
It is my opinion that a crate motor is the best way to get all the parts but I would rebalance it right out of the box if it was my money. I don't care where it comes from, thats my opinion and I am sure there will be difference ones, so be it. Buy a gasket set and borrow a motor stand one the same day you bring the crate motor home.
Also spend the extra money on a limmited slip. 400HP will spin one tire all day long in a 2500 pound car on street tires. This will create a power over steer experiance every time you boot it off a corner.
Paint. My car has about 15K miles on it over about 6 years, If I had spent $20,000 on a paint job I would be sick. These cars are so low that everything hits the paint that comes up from the road. That clear coating milar would have helped save my paintjob and it's worth looking into. Hold down the paint cost unless you figure that you will be happy seeing it beat up pretty bad in the first 10K miles on the road. By the way, you can do your own body prep. Really!
It's not all that much fun but it's not rocket science, just a lot of labor. Thats why it costs so much. Give it several months and a few 100 hours and then have someone paint it for you. You can cut the body/paint cost by 2/3's.
Back to gearbox. If the flywheel that comes with the motor you buy (crate) will work with the bellhousing that is required by the gearbox choice then fine. IF YOU USE a flywheel from any other scorce then rebalance the rotating assembly with the new flywheel. This is a near complete engine disassembly. Not hard or difficult but it must be done. Don't let anyone convince you otherwise. Ballance work isn't much money really.
Add about $300-400 to the cost of the motor + gasket set and it will live a long happy life. You will more than likely be able to reuse the rings and bearings if you take it apart before you run it. A nice set of ARP rod bolts would be a nice smart touch.
It is my opinion that a crate motor is the best way to get all the parts but I would rebalance it right out of the box if it was my money. I don't care where it comes from, thats my opinion and I am sure there will be difference ones, so be it. Buy a gasket set and borrow a motor stand one the same day you bring the crate motor home.
'Ello
You should include the Quaife ZF-Q in your transaxle choice. Identical dimensions to original ZF but good for 600bhp. See Chris Melia thread in Manufacturer Announcements.
I have just fitted one behind an LS7 in my RCR and they are widely used in Superformance GT40s being a plug and play to the original.
Good luck, RCR excellent choice:thumbsup:
John
You should include the Quaife ZF-Q in your transaxle choice. Identical dimensions to original ZF but good for 600bhp. See Chris Melia thread in Manufacturer Announcements.
I have just fitted one behind an LS7 in my RCR and they are widely used in Superformance GT40s being a plug and play to the original.
Good luck, RCR excellent choice:thumbsup:
John
