I never stated anything as fact I made comments that I thought might be an issue with the system.
I didnt feel you explained it in any detail at all ,it is just an overview and basic at that.
I did post my tech reasons but I deleted it as I didnt feel I had to justify myself.
I stated that the swaybar will be taking the full weight of the car.
You made comments about lifting it 1/8 and ¼ “ and im not lifting the total weight, you are correct I already know that
If the front of the car weighs 1320lb that gives a corner weight of 660lb.
Our front springs are 660lb that means the car is sitting down 1” on the springs .
As you come up every ¼” you will decrease the load off the springs by 25% until you reach the 1” required lift.
At the 1”you are carrying the full front weight because you are off the springs ,it is just simple high school math, I don’t know why you didn’t get my point.
This is all at 1” lift if you want to go more you will be off the spring completely.
Talking in anything under 1" is a waist of time because why would you be doing it.
The bar is loaded with 1320lb, But for every ¼” you go down the springs come into play by 25% of the rate.
It would have to be worked out that the bar rate is capable of lifting instead of controlling just the roll stiffness.
If you wanted a bar setting on the stiffer side and the links are on say a 30-40deg angle when you lift the car on the bar, the bar will push down and the link angles will increase to the point the links will go over centre and the car will drop like a stone.
That is the compromising of the sway bar that I was talking about, it has to run a link setting to suit the lift not the roll stiffness.
The links are not that large 8mm, I don’t think you would support 660lb going over bumps.
The brackets will be different if you have a decoupler in the bar it will probably require 2 brackets on each 1/2 bar
I don’t see any inconsistency in my comments of the so called basic mechanical knowledge.
If any thing these are points that could cause major issues.
If you disconnected a front swaybar and put a jack under it at the end and lift the car off the ground via the swaybar at its end I think you might be surprised how far the bar deflects.
That could be another experiment.
As I stated I felt areas would require experimentation, you claimed it basic high school physics.
I have made that much stuff for myself and clients over the years I don’t remember half of them, not everything can be worked out on paper.
I think David’s Idea is not a bad one and that is all it is an idea.
But it is trying to use the swaybar as a torsion bar ,and it may require some experimentation.
I have spent every single working day for the last 35 years working on cars,
So I think I may have some basic mechanical knowledge.
You say there is nothing different about Davids theory ,I have never seen a car lifted by using its swaybar.
You only know the truth well you need to tell me the model it is fitted to.
I don’t even know why Im replying to this as it generally is not worth it.
I didnt feel you explained it in any detail at all ,it is just an overview and basic at that.
I did post my tech reasons but I deleted it as I didnt feel I had to justify myself.
I stated that the swaybar will be taking the full weight of the car.
You made comments about lifting it 1/8 and ¼ “ and im not lifting the total weight, you are correct I already know that
If the front of the car weighs 1320lb that gives a corner weight of 660lb.
Our front springs are 660lb that means the car is sitting down 1” on the springs .
As you come up every ¼” you will decrease the load off the springs by 25% until you reach the 1” required lift.
At the 1”you are carrying the full front weight because you are off the springs ,it is just simple high school math, I don’t know why you didn’t get my point.
This is all at 1” lift if you want to go more you will be off the spring completely.
Talking in anything under 1" is a waist of time because why would you be doing it.
The bar is loaded with 1320lb, But for every ¼” you go down the springs come into play by 25% of the rate.
It would have to be worked out that the bar rate is capable of lifting instead of controlling just the roll stiffness.
If you wanted a bar setting on the stiffer side and the links are on say a 30-40deg angle when you lift the car on the bar, the bar will push down and the link angles will increase to the point the links will go over centre and the car will drop like a stone.
That is the compromising of the sway bar that I was talking about, it has to run a link setting to suit the lift not the roll stiffness.
The links are not that large 8mm, I don’t think you would support 660lb going over bumps.
The brackets will be different if you have a decoupler in the bar it will probably require 2 brackets on each 1/2 bar
I don’t see any inconsistency in my comments of the so called basic mechanical knowledge.
If any thing these are points that could cause major issues.
If you disconnected a front swaybar and put a jack under it at the end and lift the car off the ground via the swaybar at its end I think you might be surprised how far the bar deflects.
That could be another experiment.
As I stated I felt areas would require experimentation, you claimed it basic high school physics.
I have made that much stuff for myself and clients over the years I don’t remember half of them, not everything can be worked out on paper.
I think David’s Idea is not a bad one and that is all it is an idea.
But it is trying to use the swaybar as a torsion bar ,and it may require some experimentation.
I have spent every single working day for the last 35 years working on cars,
So I think I may have some basic mechanical knowledge.
You say there is nothing different about Davids theory ,I have never seen a car lifted by using its swaybar.
You only know the truth well you need to tell me the model it is fitted to.
I don’t even know why Im replying to this as it generally is not worth it.
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