Pictures? Air lift / StanceParts

PaulProe

Supporter
Does anyone have pictures of the front coil-overs with the StanceParts AirLift installed on an RCR GT40?

I am told by some they don't fit, I am told by others they have them and they work fine. Don't know if it may have been a singular build issue or if the builders had to make modifications to make them work. A picture is worth 1000 words.

I have pictures of them installed on a GT-R and a SLC, but those are different frames (but similar)

Can anyone help?

Paul
 

Neal

Lifetime Supporter
I tried the Stance cups but the interfere with the chassis. If you flip the shock they interfere with the upright. Same issue in the rear. No pics with the cups but here are a few showing the tight clearance. I’m not aware of anyone installing the on a RCR GT40. The cups are 4.75” wide.
 

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Randy Folsom

Supporter
I should be receiving my RCR40 kit this month. I think it will arrive with the airlift shocks mounted. I’ll let you know if there are interference issues.
 

PaulProe

Supporter
I tried the Stance cups but the interfere with the chassis. If you flip the shock they interfere with the upright. Same issue in the rear. No pics with the cups but here are a few showing the tight clearance. I’m not aware of anyone installing the on a RCR GT40. The cups are 4.75” wide.
Neal
Stanceparts also offers 110mm cups. Did you raise this question to them when you made your initial purchase or when you ran into issues?

The ones that I have seen on a SLC did install the shocks with the rod down and the cups on the bottom/upright end.

Paul
 

Neal

Lifetime Supporter
They were not available when I purchased them. 110 may work. Interested to see Randy’s setup.
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I finally received my Stance lift kit. The cups are indeed 120mm. They will definitely interfere with the chassis.

I am going call Bill at RCR and ask what they do. If they don’t have a solution I am going mock up some 110 cups to see if that will work. The 120s might fit mounted on the bottom of the spring, but then will fill with debris.

If the 110 mock up still doesn’t work, then I might cut a recess in the tub and fab a pocket. However, I am concerned with interfering with the pedal assembly.

The 2 gal tank is going to take up a lot of very precious space. I see in the Stance manual that the pump can used without the tank. That is probably how I will install it, or I might look for a one gallon tank.
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I talked to Bill at RCR. He said that they put the cup on the bottom of the spring and that they haven’t had any problems with debris accumulation. He also suggested getting a one gal air tank. I just ordered this one. It has plenty of ports and is currently on sale.

 

PaulProe

Supporter
Randy
You might check for interference with the upright. Neil reported he couldn't get it to work. Don't know what the issue wasyou

If you can, post a picture of it mounted on the bottom. Maybe a shield to deflect stuff going to the cavity?

Paul
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Paul, I hope to do some clearance testing tomorrow. I’ll take some pictures. Closing off the cup is a challenge since the spring has to be able to compress. Perhaps a nylon sock with a hole for the coil. I am going to call Stance to see if they have any ideas. Cheers, Randy
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Below are pictures of the 120mm Stance cup in both right-side up and up-side down. It appears to have sufficient clearance in the up-side down position, not possible in the right-side up position even with a pocket in the chassis because the upper ball joint nut on the inside of the control arm will catch the edge of the cup.

I think the 110mm cup will work as long as the spring tension nuts are set to the bottom of the shock and a spacer washers are used at the top of the cup. Might still need a small pocket in the chassis.

I sent a message to Stance asking if the 120mm cups can be exchanged for 110mm cups. I don’t expect a response today due the time zone difference.

IMG_3686.jpeg


IMG_3687.jpeg
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I mocked up a 110mm cup using a yogurt lid. It will not work in the upright position without a pocket. With the 110mm, a 10mm deep pocket by 2” tall and 3” wide should be enough. The 110m does clear the ball joint stud and nut on the inside of the upper control arm. The 120mm cup will not clear the ball joint stud without trimming the stud. Not something I am inclined to do.

So now I wait for a response from Stance. If the 120mm cup can be exchanged for the 110mm, then I will fabricate pockets, otherwise I will use the 120mm cups and install the shock upside (rod) down.

image.jpg
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Perhaps a 1/4" spacer for the upper shock mount.
I did test that. Because the shock is near vertical, it takes a 1” spacer to gain 1/4” horizontal clearance. The spring nuts provide 3/4” space when lowered to the max, not quite enough.
 

PaulProe

Supporter
Randy,
Just thinking out loud with some ideas
  • They seem to make these work on the GT-R and SLC models. Looking at the pictures, it seems the upper shock mount spaces the pivot out a little further from the chassis than as is used on the GT40. If you go too far, you run into interference with the control arm. Without a chassis to measure, I don't know if there's a compromise
  • Maybe using the 110 diameter with a upper pivot spaced out?
  • You might also gain some clearance if there was a shorter spring and a spacer to move the hat/cylinder down away from the pivot.
  • if mounted upside down, what if you carved some foam to fit into the cavity of the spring and the ram. It wouldn't keep water out but it would keep the big chunks out
  • QA1 makes a shock extension and used to make a 'long reach' upper eye. But either would require a shorter shock to fit the application. I don't know the shock size or spring length so can't theorize much beyond that.
I am kind of surprised that others haven't chimed in with a solution, you can't be the first person to do this. What are we missing? Hoping some of the other RCR owners/builders who have used these will chime in.

Paul
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Randy,
Just thinking out loud with some ideas
  • They seem to make these work on the GT-R and SLC models. Looking at the pictures, it seems the upper shock mount spaces the pivot out a little further from the chassis than as is used on the GT40. If you go too far, you run into interference with the control arm. Without a chassis to measure, I don't know if there's a compromise
  • Maybe using the 110 diameter with a upper pivot spaced out?
  • You might also gain some clearance if there was a shorter spring and a spacer to move the hat/cylinder down away from the pivot.
  • if mounted upside down, what if you carved some foam to fit into the cavity of the spring and the ram. It wouldn't keep water out but it would keep the big chunks out
  • QA1 makes a shock extension and used to make a 'long reach' upper eye. But either would require a shorter shock to fit the application. I don't know the shock size or spring length so can't theorize much beyond that.
I am kind of surprised that others haven't chimed in with a solution, you can't be the first person to do this. What are we missing? Hoping some of the other RCR owners/builders who have used these will chime in.

Paul
Paul, you are correct that moving the shock mount out would result in hitting the upper control arm, specifically the ball joint stud and nut. The top of the cup can be moved down about 3/4” with spacers on the rod end, but my crude measurements indicate that the 110mm cup will still need a small pocket.

I like your suggestion of filling the inside of the spring with soft foam to minimize the debris collection. It would also wick away water.

Cheers, Randy
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I received the 110mm cups from Stance today. They just barely clear with 1/2” of washer spacers between the jam nut and top of the cup. The spring nuts are in the lowest position with no tension on the spring. Without the spacers, it will not clear.

I then added an 1/8” spacer behind the upper shock pickup. That looks like it’s going to work without have to cut a clearance pocket in the chassis. A miss is as good as a mile.

IMG_3738.jpeg


IMG_3737.jpeg

IMG_3739.jpeg
 

PaulProe

Supporter
Randy,
The front shock is designed for about an 11" neutral position - it then has about 1-5/8" jounce and the same amount rebound.

When you add the air cup, it uses up 20mm(.787") of the jounce, leaving less than an inch till the shock bottoms out. If you space the rod down another 3/8"-1/2" with the washers, you're going to have less than 1/2" of jounce before bottoming out. Or am I seeing this wrong?

When your lower control arm is parallel to the ground or bottom of the vehicle, is the center-to-center spacing of the shock about 11". You'll probably have to take the springs out to make a rough measurement.

The springs that were supplied, for the front, were they 7" x 650lb rate?

Paul
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
Paul,

In the pictures I sent, the shock is fully extended and the spring is completely unloaded. As far as I can tell, there is nothing preventing the spring from fully compressing so it seems the cup and spacers has no impact on the available travel. It’s about the same as a thick shock hat. The only impact of the cup is that the position of the spring is lower relative to the shock body.

The cup does prevent the use of longer springs as almost all the available downward adjustment is used up, but there is still room for one more washer.

The springs are 7HT400


I like the idea of supporting the surrounding panel and using heat & hammer to create a dimple instead of a grinder. Much more elegant.
 

Randy Folsom

Supporter
I am switching out the 2 gal steel tank that came with the lift kit for a 1 gal aluminum tank. More compact, half the weight, won’t rust, and looks much better. The tank is well made except for the bolts provided for the legs are too short, metric, didn’t include washers and didn’t include Nyloc nuts. Also, only four bungs, so needed purchase adapters, tees, etc.

I was told the system as provided by RCR will lift the car about six times in rapid succession. I figure with the smaller 110mm cups I might get four successive lifts with a 1 gal tank. In my case, that is plenty.

IMG_3740.jpeg
 
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