Problems finding a suitable door seal

Nick

Bronze Supporter
#1
I am having problems locating a suitable door sea for my Chris Melia bodied Southern GT. The lip for the seal is around 5-6mm as opposed to 2-3mm for other bodies I have seen.

I have tried COH Baines in the UK to no avail.
 

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#2
Hi Nick,

I've been looking for decent door seals but there isn't much choice. It's a common misconception that COH Baines supplied the original door seals but they didn't, they were made by a now defunct German company.

Lotus Elan owners suffer from the same lack of seals.

Regards,
 

Nick

Bronze Supporter
#3
Hi Nick,

I've been looking for decent door seals but there isn't much choice. It's a common misconception that COH Baines supplied the original door seals but they didn't, they were made by a now defunct German company.

Lotus Elan owners suffer from the same lack of seals.

Regards,
Hi Graham,

I wasn't even aware of the misconception :(, just choose COH Baines as they seemed to have a good selection.
 
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Nick

Bronze Supporter
#6
Hi Nick,

Have a look at COH Baines item DX 73.
Thanks Brian, big problem is that is only for 1 to 3mm panels, I had a few samples off them and their DX75 was perfect for my 5mm panel, but the bulb is only 13mm.

I seem to need a 16mm bulb as per the DX71 but unfortunately that is for a 1 to 3mm panel.

What I need is a DX71 / 75 cross breed ie 5mm panel 16mm bulb, but no one seems to do that.


I remembered this thread.
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/rcr-foru...rce-weather-strip-uk.html?highlight=Door+seal

Ian

Ok I am sad and have no life, but a good memory!
Thanks Ian.
 

Nick

Bronze Supporter
#9
Hi Nick,
I would grind the edge of the panel until the seal fits, a bit messy but easier to use a standard seal.
Regards,
Andy
Thanks Andy, may well have to resort to that but want to avoid it if I can.



Hi Nick
Try this company, phoenix trim supplies, hope they have what you are looking for, Andy
Andy, would love to buy from a proper job, West Country firm, used to go through Cullompton everyday for a few years on my way to Tiverton Technical College. Totally irrelevant but it shows there is more than one, Ian Anderson sad middle aged no life man out there ;)
 
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#11
Hi Nick,
I used seal profile ETS60 from Seals Direct, which is also sold by CBS under part number TRMDRL. As it is not a bulb seal, I found it more compliant and easier to use, as it was not trying to lift the door, as the sealing part of the seal takes up less space when compressed.
I still think you’ll have to grind down the thickness of the edge, but probably not all the way to 3mm, as the design specification
Regards,
Andy
 

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Nick

Bronze Supporter
#12
Hi Nick,
I used seal profile ETS60 from Seals Direct, which is also sold by CBS under part number TRMDRL. As it is not a bulb seal, I found it more compliant and easier to use, as it was not trying to lift the door, as the sealing part of the seal takes up less space when compressed.
I still think you’ll have to grind down the thickness of the edge, but probably not all the way to 3mm, as the design specification
Regards,
Andy
Andy,

Does it keep the water out without a bulb.

Thanks
 
#13
Nick
Unless you have serious anti lift devices on your doors at 70 mph you will have half an inch of air between your spider and door!

A lot of rain came through that bit when I started driving my car years back and before I had them fitted.

After that It is mainly dry with the odd drip, wet on door Windows and opening flaps, very wet with spray from front tyres coming around hinge of door and decidedly damp water coming under the bottom of the door and soaking the sill carpets, only to be sat on later and causing damp bum syndrome!

On the way down to LMC 2008 it was torrential rain for about 200km
All the GT40s needed bailed/sponged out on arrival at Le Mans

None were watertight

Ian
 

Nick

Bronze Supporter
#14
Nick
Unless you have serious anti lift devices on your doors at 70 mph you will have half an inch of air between your spider and door!

A lot of rain came through that bit when I started driving my car years back and before I had them fitted.

After that It is mainly dry with the odd drip, wet on door Windows and opening flaps, very wet with spray from front tyres coming around hinge of door and decidedly damp water coming under the bottom of the door and soaking the sill carpets, only to be sat on later and causing damp bum syndrome!

On the way down to LMC 2008 it was torrential rain for about 200km
All the GT40s needed bailed/sponged out on arrival at Le Mans

None were watertight

Ian
Sounds like a challenge :)

Must admit every owner says the same, still a lot of Lotus M100 Elan owners drive around with a towel over their right legs, hoping to avoid that. Was just wondering if the flap seal is as good as a bulb.

Anti lift devices sorted and sealant gun at the ready!
 
#17
My CAV has door rubber from BMW E39 S. My notes also say you can buy aftermarket product for that vehicle cheaper than BMW but it really seals the doors. Another friend of mine had a new CAV GT 40 and his doors were leaking and he install this BMW door rubber and sealed it perfectly. I think it is available through the aftermarket also if you prefer not to pay the higher price from BMW.

Part Number: BMW 51727116403
 
#18
My CAV has door rubber from BMW E39 S. My notes also say you can buy aftermarket product for that vehicle cheaper than BMW but it really seals the doors. Another friend of mine had a new CAV GT 40 and his doors were leaking and he install this BMW door rubber and sealed it perfectly.

Part Number: BMW 51727116403
 
#19
Although, I've seen the door tops lift as stated earlier (Goodwood races), my door structure must be pretty stiff as I have not witnessed any lift at up to 140+. My doors came with an inner door panel structure bonded to the outer skin, perhaps that delays the inevitable, but at our 75-80 mph speed limits here, the doors never move or lift.

As for weather seals, I use the McMaster-Carr supplied bulb seals around the door frame and replace them (8 ft each?) each year so they remain pliable and seal well. My tightest areas were along the A-pillar. As an alternative to using rubber seals, I did consider building a labyrinth type seal for the doors for sealing and as a water gutter to catch rain water and direct it downwards, however, it has been a non-issue as the bulb seal works quite well. For the front tires, I installed thick fiberglass sheet at the rear fender area (out of view) as a sort of inner fender/water blast shield. That stops about 70% of water splash, then a second wall of conformal neoprene foam (2" thick from McMaster-Carr) in front of the door hinge from top to bottom that conforms to the front of the door when it's closed shut, stops the rest.

For the sill area, a labyrinth type solution works using a flexible "skirt" seal attached to the underside inner structure (under door box) of the door. From my experience, that kept a good 90-95% of the moisture out after a downpour and driving 1-1.5 hr at highway speeds. Additional moisture seems to arrive in the cockpit as a mist or through the side window pop-outs and helicopter vents but that's manageable for me.
 
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