Q re: Original front lower ball joint components

[Seymour Snerd]

In the FAV parts book the components of the front lower control arm outer ball joint are listed as follows. I'm curious to know what the "74..." designations mean (if anything), and more generally were these parts sourced from some contemporaneous mass production vehicle, and if so which? Also, what method was considered to be proper for securing the "ball stud adjusting cap" in it's adjusted preloading position?

57 GT40P/4/40562 Gaiter, rubber 7R 6815
58 GT40P/4/40542 Clip, sprig 7R 7419
59 GT40P/4/40582 Cup, retaining
60 GT40P/4/40632 Stud, ball 7R 7334
61 GT40P/4/40602 Cup, retaining 7R 4197
62 GT40P/4/40012 Cap, ball stud adjusting

 

[Jim Craik]

Alan,

I had a good time and learned alot when you helped me change out mine, thanks again! She's running great, I got the AC charged up on Friday & so far its staying cool!

Let me know when you are ready to go down to Canepa's!

Thanks again for all your help

 

[Jim Cowden]

Jaguars used alot of that style setup with shims on the ball joints.
It maybe a doner.

Is 62 threaded.

Jim

 

[Seymour Snerd]

Jaguars used alot of that style setup with shims on the ball joints.
It maybe a doner.

Is 62 threaded.

Jim

Thanks, Jim. I've since learned that the SPF differs from the original in this area. Jay Cushman tells me the original lower control arms have a 1-9/16" bore that is threaded 24 tpi for the adjustment cup, which is a couple mm larger than the M38-1.5 thread on the SPF. Jay also said that in any event there are no metric parts in the originals. So I could bore and tap my LCAs to take the original parts. The ones Jay supplies are absolutely gorgeous.

Since in either case their are no shims involved, that is, the preload is established by the position of the adjustment cup, I'm still curious to know what standard practice is for fixing the cup's position. Jim Craik and I discovered the hard way that there are some serious disadvantages to staking it the way SPF does, so I'm looking for an alternative, and of course a historically accurate one is always preferred.

 

[Jim Cowden]

Alan
I would use a lock tight.
If a bearing retainer is used it can be reversed by using heat before removing.

Jim

 

[DaveM]

Actually I wouldn't use loctite on the cap. The threads are fine and easy to crossthread. Use of heat to unlock the loctite might damage the nylon components. I haven't had any problem with loosening. With wear of the nylon components adjustment might be necessary, but periodic lubrication thru a Zerk fiiting should minimize this. Of course this all refers to the SPF components. I'm not familiar with the original ball joint.

 

[John Shand]

there is a hole in the lower arm housing for lock wire and the nut/hex on part 62 is drilled as well, hope this helps,

 

[Seymour Snerd]

there is a hole in the lower arm housing for lock wire and the nut/hex on part 62 is drilled as well, hope this helps,

Thank you! That's what I was hoping.