racecar build

#21
Hi Frank, Thanks for the 1UZ lesson.

The main reason for this engine has to be that they are dirt cheap.
In holland the where only aviable in the Lexus GS400, so there arent many around here. But because there bullet proof there isn´t any demand for them either.

We have heard about the flow problems with the Original heads, our plan is to run the engine with OBX itb, other cams, custom exhaust manifold & a stand alone ecu.
Hoping at 350+ HP.
 
#22
Peter
Just been doing a little bit of play time and gutted my 1uz ready to fit the OBZ throttle bodies, You may need to massage the manifold a fraction as it fouls in a couple of places, it just involves a little grinding of material away and then no problems. I will take some pictures and show you. I may end up making some small tube bends to turn the trumpets vertical rather than the stnd angle how ever they do look good. My motor will still run standard cams and a Microtech computor.Almost ready to paint the chassis.
Cheers
 
#23
Peter
Just starting to sort out the fly wheel details, can you please confirm the thickness of your adapter plate just to make my numbers confirm, my adaptor plate is 32.5mm.
Cheers
Russell
 
#25
Hi All, Update time :)


As said earlier, whe were not very happy with the front end design.
Manly beacuse of the pickup points of the lower wishbone's. We used the same geometrie as the original lola, but we are not very keen on getting a Lola limp after a crash.








het front had a discussion with the grinder :)




By by


after many hours of messing around with the suspension software ( Vsusp.com ) we came up with this :























Bought a shiny new pedalbox







next will be the front uprights ( I hope )


Cheers,
 
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#29
Update time :)

Now the new front end is in place, I could start designing and making the front uprights.


after some drawing we came up with this design, it is made out of Chrome Moly tube,


Checking over and over again, making sure it fits all within the wheels.




Cardbord template for the brake caliper



Fully welded with the axle stub in place


Left and Right done


brake mount welded in place


brake caliper mounted










all fits nice and snug in the wheel
 
#32
Now the front uprights are done, I made a start with the wishbones.


I made a simple mould from scrap material.
The wishbones are made on 25 x 1.5 crmo tube.
















Made the upper wishbone










A friend of mine who runs a CNC lathe for living made me some nice stainless steel adjustment nuts













Can you see the problem :embarassed::embarassed::embarassed:





the angle on the rosejoint of the upper wishbone is to big, this lease almost no room for suspension travel.


I found i very difficult to measure te correct angle, because it has to lean inwards & backwards.


After a few attempts I got an angle witch works





 
#33
next chapter: wishbones that drive you mad

Been busy with wishbones, wishbones and wishbones.
While the new front is in place, we could begin making the wishbones.
sindce we were not using the Lola geomitry we had to design our own wishbones.

After carefully measuring,I made a mockup








Lower wishbone in place


made a upper wishbone



A good friend made us some quick adjuster nuts out of stainless steel


adjusting nut in place


Left and right side in place


looking good right ???

not, I have made a huge fuck upm Because we are not in to CAD design ( we have tried but we are more of a hands on kind of approach ) we design things on the spot. I was in the impression that I made the front end in sutch a way that the lower wishbones left and right identical. but I have not checked the wheelbase. So the complete set of wishbones is wrong, the wheelbase is to long and the front wheels are to mutch forward.

So back to the workbench and start again.
 
#34
Peter
Don`t worry, its good practice, I ended up making my fronts 3 times. I made the first set out of 2mm only to be told by the certifier that I should have used 2.5 mm wall section. So I ordered a length of 2.5 and duly got right thru to the last piece of tube only to find that it was colour coded yellow.....which meant it was only 2 mm.
I then ordered the car manual from the Low Volume Vehical Ass. because this car is going to be road registered and needs to be correct, they spec schedule 40 20mm Nominal Bore so that`s what I ended up with.
Meanwhile work continues.
Cheers
 
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#36
Hello Peter
Am following with interest your built
May I give you an advise of a detail to check ?
I read you did wrong form ( dimension ) of your front whishbone ( so another set to come ) but seems you are using very very small spherical bearings on top and lower points of uprights ;
did you check the capacity of those with full bump and low position ?
Normaly you need to use at least 16 mm ones reduced to 12 with conical spacer to get a rather good stroke ....

Hope am not "hacking " your built or giving wrong advice ; from your pics the round machined casings welded to the wishbone seems so ":shy:Tiny" ? :blank:
 
#37
Peter, to support Michel's thoughts there is another consideration for larger spherical joints besides just strength. Larger joints give you more surface area for the spherical ball. If you happen to use teflon lined ones, which I recommend because they are preloaded. the larger ones will stay tighter longer.
 
#38
Peter
... only to be told by the certifier that I should have used 2.5 mm wall section...
You guys in the rest of the world have WAY too many rules! In Texas, an ASCS Certified Master Mechanic inspects the car. If he says it looks OK, then it's OK. These guys are Mechanics, not engineers. If your build is good quality, you have not done something stupid or half-ass, it stops, goes, steers like a car should then you are good to go. Any reputable Mechanic is not going to approve something that is not safe, but it sounds like it's easier to get a home built airplane certified in the USA than it is a home built car in half the world.
 
#39
You are spot on there Frank, try getting a car registered in Australia. Way over the top when you look at the junk driving around on the road.
You're doing a great job Peter.
Regards, Udo.
 

Jac Mac

Active Member
#40
You guys in the rest of the world have WAY too many rules! In Texas, an ASCS Certified Master Mechanic inspects the car. If he says it looks OK, then it's OK. These guys are Mechanics, not engineers. If your build is good quality, you have not done something stupid or half-ass, it stops, goes, steers like a car should then you are good to go. Any reputable Mechanic is not going to approve something that is not safe, but it sounds like it's easier to get a home built airplane certified in the USA than it is a home built car in half the world.
Wrong Word-Not aware of any Homebuilt airplanes that are or can be Certified, pretty sure its like NZ where they must have a placard stating that the Aircraft is experimental and NOT used for Hire or Reward.
 
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