So similar to the seat question, looking for thought on cable routing in the same area. For the wires going from dash to rear, I have two one inch bundles to get through to the rear. I did cut the front of the seat on the inside, so they fit by there along the spine. Then it seems best to run them through the bottom of the seat as pictured. A con to that would be the need to disassemble the seat in place to remove the seat, but that is only two bolts at the bottom where the seat hinges. Then you can either put the holes through in the engine Bay Area which is a straighter run, or it might be possible to get enough bend to go through the access cover, sorta where the cable sheath end is laying in the picture. I guess the pro ther is no more holes in the bulkhead and the cables will not chance interference with the engine. Anyone have thoughts or advice?
There's a few ways to go for sure, but I can tell you that dumping wires into the engine bay should be avoided as it will be a cramped and busy area once you get your engine installed.
I tried to keep it simple and have ease of accessibility by routing the wires using snakeskin wire wrap along the drivers left side floor and through the left side sponson access cover. From there the wires split off to their respective sides. Wires needing to go to the right side sponson (Battery, ignition box, starter, etc) are routed through a 1" heater hose (pass thru) secured to Nylon 1" Pipe Fittings on both ends and run close along the bottom firewall. Examples are shown below. I have a 1" tap so a quick tap run through the soft aluminum followed by the screw-in Nylon Pipe Fitting and a little Goop to secure it. BTW, I also used these fittings to prevent wire chafing as the wires pass through any bulkhead along the way.
A little off-topic but I can see from your pic that the shifter cables will be in the way, or maybe you haven't secure them yet? As I mentioned in an earlier post, they really do need to make a tight turn towards the sponson lower edges as soon as they enter the engine bay, and clamped in place along the way with Adel clamps. You have engine accessory pulleys, water hoses, AC(?) hoses, etc., and in your case...parking brake cables that are already reserved to take up space there. Any chance you can drop your engine in place to get a better mental picture of what's ahead of you?
Hope this helps inspire a few thoughts and ideas...
I tried to keep it simple and have ease of accessibility by routing the wires using snakeskin wire wrap along the drivers left side floor and through the left side sponson access cover. From there the wires split off to their respective sides. Wires needing to go to the right side sponson (Battery, ignition box, starter, etc) are routed through a 1" heater hose (pass thru) secured to Nylon 1" Pipe Fittings on both ends and run close along the bottom firewall. Examples are shown below. I have a 1" tap so a quick tap run through the soft aluminum followed by the screw-in Nylon Pipe Fitting and a little Goop to secure it. BTW, I also used these fittings to prevent wire chafing as the wires pass through any bulkhead along the way.
A little off-topic but I can see from your pic that the shifter cables will be in the way, or maybe you haven't secure them yet? As I mentioned in an earlier post, they really do need to make a tight turn towards the sponson lower edges as soon as they enter the engine bay, and clamped in place along the way with Adel clamps. You have engine accessory pulleys, water hoses, AC(?) hoses, etc., and in your case...parking brake cables that are already reserved to take up space there. Any chance you can drop your engine in place to get a better mental picture of what's ahead of you?
Hope this helps inspire a few thoughts and ideas...
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Hi Mitch, my RCR is right hand drive. The main loom runs along the lower right hand floor under the gearshift and through the lower right side of the bulkhead, via fuse box and 3 systems switches. The dash wiring exits also on the right hand side and connects via multi plugs. The battery is in the right hand rear engine bay box. So all the loom stuff is down the inner right hand side leaving the passenger side ‘clean’.
Cheers
Roger Allen
Cheers
Roger Allen
Tom and Roger,
Thanks that does help, especially the pictures. I was contemplating a change to the drivers side because of more room, good to hear that is a good solution from Tom.
The shifter cables are just laying loose, I have not yet done any routing. I was contemplating if I should put the engine in just to see what it looks like, so maybe that is a good step to embark on just to understand some of the routing a little bit more.
I did like the plastic through hole solution in the pic, I have been using rubber grommets, that would be another good way to go, and better then buying the right sized grommet in pack of 25 which is the only way I can seem to find them (and I only need a couple).
Thanks for the pictures, that helped a lot.
Thanks that does help, especially the pictures. I was contemplating a change to the drivers side because of more room, good to hear that is a good solution from Tom.
The shifter cables are just laying loose, I have not yet done any routing. I was contemplating if I should put the engine in just to see what it looks like, so maybe that is a good step to embark on just to understand some of the routing a little bit more.
I did like the plastic through hole solution in the pic, I have been using rubber grommets, that would be another good way to go, and better then buying the right sized grommet in pack of 25 which is the only way I can seem to find them (and I only need a couple).
Thanks for the pictures, that helped a lot.
Mitch,
Rubber grommets dry up, crack, and fall off...looks like crap after awhile. An alternative to the nylon fitting (holes >1") is what's used on aircraft and what I use on the larger bulkhead pass-thru. That is the Grommet Edging shown below. You'll need the 1/4" and perhaps smaller sizes. They range from .025" to .260" and sold by the foot on Aircraft Spruce.
A few more ideas....you can also make a grommet bracket similar to the 4th pic with some sheet aluminum. Last pic is similar to the aluminum one I use for my throttle cable.
Rubber grommets dry up, crack, and fall off...looks like crap after awhile. An alternative to the nylon fitting (holes >1") is what's used on aircraft and what I use on the larger bulkhead pass-thru. That is the Grommet Edging shown below. You'll need the 1/4" and perhaps smaller sizes. They range from .025" to .260" and sold by the foot on Aircraft Spruce.
A few more ideas....you can also make a grommet bracket similar to the 4th pic with some sheet aluminum. Last pic is similar to the aluminum one I use for my throttle cable.
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