I bet you're pretty stoked to get that car painted! What color scheme did you decide to go with?
OK, speaking from experience, almost 6000 miles in the past 16 months, sitting in traffic on hot days, driving and parking in over 10k feet of thin air, doing track events, and leaving it parked hot without raising the bonnet, I'm happy to say you can keep it simple. I don't see a need to run an 'air gap' heat shield like you're trying to do in this case. I have experienced zero heat or fiberglass distortion issue using the Thermo-Tec Adhesive Backed Heat Barrier applied to the areas in the pictures below.
I cropped a few pics of random shots of mine to highlight the heat shielding. Take note there are a couple of 'tricks' like sheet aluminum barriers/exhaust box, and a stainless steel tube exhaust that pays big dividends in containing, insulating, and/or routing the heat away even when you're standing still.
Keep these cars simple and light, and they will reward you big time!
Tom you are correct. I am stoked.
I finished plumping the air lines into the paint booth today. Last item on the list. Paint booth is complete. They will paint a car in it Monday.
The owner, Tommy, ask me if he could sent a roll back to pick up my car next week. I told him I had a couple of weeks of work to do to it before he could paint it. One thing I have to do is get is a four wheel alignment and ride height done. He told me that after they adjust the body and get the center for the stripe he could take the chassis to the alignment shop on his roll back. But after looking at my car this afternoon I want the alignment done first.
Looks like I'll be putting in some long hours for the next couple of weeks. Goal is to have it in the paint shop by Christmas.
Tommy has a windshield guy that can install my windshield with trim.
And today he was telling me about a dyno shop that can tune my injection system. Big plus because they are about 85 miles from me.
Sounds like it's all coming together. Sounds like you have a team available to get that car looking and running its best!
That rear clam can easily gain weight. I went with 3K carbon cloth at a 45 deg bias under that flat area covering the engine to ensure it stays stiff and flat. Then I used the Thermo-Tec Heat Barrier over the carbon cloth. It's pretty solid and added little weight to the rear of the car.
This what I used on my CAV Nimbus GII Heat Shield | Demon Tweeks
Made by these people I think Aerotech Heat Shield Products
I used a Sikaflex 221 (I think) to stick it directly to the underside. It has withstood extreme temperatures. Much higher then the self adhesive heat shield that I had fitted previously(it all came off and melted all round my exhuast)
Although it is a convoluted aluminium you can cut it with large strong scissors.
I can try and post pictures if you want.
I use the DEI floor/transmission tunnel thermal barrier. I was skeptical at first, wondering if the PSA would hold up to the heat, but it is stuck very well onto the underside of my rear clip. Fiberglass temperatures reach the normal range of sitting for hours in direct sunlight in the summer, during idle or shut-down, with no moving air. Header/collector distance is about 4" under the panel. I did paint the underside of the panel to ensure a smooth surface for the barrier to stick to. I eventually used this for all the barriers under the clip (seat/firewall, and various smaller aluminum barriers placed to keep radiant heat away from fuel/oil/critical components.
Lee Holman at Holman Moody designed a heat shield for my GT40 about four years ago. It's pictured as the "early version" in this link. It works great, and protects the area of the clamshell that is really impacted by the heat. He has since modified the design, and a photo of the new design is shown as well. I recommend his product.
Yesterday I welded 10/32" SS studs that I made by cutting the head off a screw to stainless fender washers.
Then I laid out the pattern for two heat shield. I cut 28 pieces of fiberglass to glass the studs to the deck. Then I mixed up my first batch of fiberglass. As I looked at the project I decided there had to be a better way. So I threw away the fiberglass that I had mixed and called my painter.
I ask Tommy if he had a glue that would hold the stainless to fiberglass. He responded "yes".
My car will go into the paint shop in the next few weeks. I will glue the studs in at his shop.
I've had success with threaded fasteners in fiberglass by fabricating a thick layer of fiberglass (dependent on the size fastener you want to use), then cutting out stand-offs from this material using a hole saw. Then tap the center hole of the standoff, insert Helicoils into the tapped glass, and then bond the stand-off onto the fiberglass panel. I've used this method for door and hood hinges with great success. Care must be exercised not to screw the fastener too deeply (will try to separate the stand-off from the panel). This obviously can be avoided by applying theadlocker to a stud and then screwing the stud into the Helicoil. Then you avoid inadvertently damaging the bond when applying parts.
I have finally managed to get to my GT. Here are some pictures of the heat shield I used. It works well. It has been on the car for 10 years and is stuck on with sikaflex.
I have been to Le Mans, several times, where it has been so hot I have had fuel vaporization, non functioning aircon (as it was so hot the condenser could not cool the gas) and had to drive with the door open and it is still on there, so before you get your screws attached have a look to see if you can get it over there. I know Demon Tweeks would probably send it over.