Rebuilding a Race Engine

Randy V

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I know that this won't be a popular opinion but here goes -

Frankly I would not build a stroker of greater than .250" in a B50 block - and at that - I would make darned certain I had the block both sonic tested for cylinder wall consistency and magnafluxed for crack detection in the main webs / saddles..

For any serious competition - I would pony up the extra bucks to buy the new Ford Boss 302 block. 4 bolt mains, improved oiling, able to accept overbores up to .125" without worry...

If you used that block Ross - you could get to nearly 6 liters (364 CID) and have something that wouldn't be like spinning the cylinder on a 6-shooter every time you hit the loud pedal...

Or -

If you REALLY have your heart set on a 347 - you could use the 331 .250" crank with 4.125 slugs to get the job done and you'd have something that revs even quicker yet...
 
You wont be lonely Randy, Im already up in the cheap seats with oysters, blue cod , & chips........much more tasty & apparently cheaper than USA popcorn!!:)
 
Using the Boss block the Ford Racing 331 pulls 500 hp at 7200 rpm. Will you be needing more? As was related to me,the 347 will be ok if 'freshened frequently' (and not over revved),especially if you have the wrist pin/oil ring interference set-up. Magnafluxing for an engine that has seen an internal failure is not an option,it should always be done.( Jac Mac - The movie popcorn may be more expensive but is less of an olfactory assault; maybe chocolate coated cod for Kiwi theaters/theatres?)
 
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Ross Nicol

GT40s Supporter
Looks like I will be able to depart this mortal coil knowing that I entertained, by playing music in my youth:guitarist: and by the demise of my race car engines in the latter years:helmet:, excellent:thumbsup:.

Ross
 
Maurice if you look closely at the pic of the crank you'll see it has heavy metal in the counter weights. I had the machine shop (Saliba engine reconditioning) balance the crank so it is internally balanced. They supplied the pistons,crank and rods after machining the block so I assume (no not that word again) they have weight matched the pistons and rods and also used those weights to balance the crank as a unit. I will check with them as my orders are not to assume anything.:uneasy:. I was going to remove the camshaft to check the bearing oil holes are lined up ok. They were fitted by Saliba. So if I have it out should I crack test it too? I've never heard of camshafts being balanced but what do my bosses think?
Ross:thumbsup:
Just seeing if the Ozy life had dulled your brain over the cam, low mass, 1/2 engine speed therefore insignificant but I have had new pressure plates that have been badly out of balance before.:drunk:
 

Ross Nicol

GT40s Supporter
OK I have a pic of a piston going into my new engine. This pic clearly shows the oil ring groove and pin interference and forms part of the objection to the 347 stroker engine (I am building) by forum members in earlier posts. The new crankshaft has longer throw journals which increase stroke from 3" (standard 302ci) to 3.4" (347ci). Rod length is increased from 5.09" (302) to 5.4" (347), this increase in rod length attracts some critisizm as it makes for a poorer 'Rod Ratio'. Because of the longer throws on the crank clearance issues arise and knotches have to be cut in the lower bores. This has been done to my block and Jac Mac highlighted they were larger than they needed to be.
So in summary objections to stroking a 302 to 347 are based on

1/ Piston pin/oil ring interference
2/ Poor Rod ratio
3/ piston support at BDC

As Jac said though like Russ I'm going for the Cubes. I think the old saying 'there ain't no substitute for cubic inches' is rattling around my grey matter.
Ford Australia are known to test an engine at full power for 24 hours and only reject them for production cars if they don't pass. The 347 stroker engines they fitted to the TE and similar model Falcons only lasted 16hrs but when stripped it was crankshaft failure not rods or pistons, so they were passed and many were built.
My engine build will continue next week when the parts return from crack testing.

Ross:thumbsup:
 

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FWIW.
1. Piston Pin oil ring interference.......I dont have a problem with this, in fact at 3.4" stroke I would run a 0.900" pin height piston.

2. Poor rod ratio.........This is the 'real' issue & use of a 0.900" piston allows a rod that brings this into an acceptable 'area'.

3. Piston support @BDC......With the above suggested longer rod this situation is considerably improved along a more 'conservative' approach to the clearancing notches.

Obviously these suggestions are going to be ruled out as TOO expensive due to the pistons & rods being custom order pieces & I can understand that. However thats my take on the combination & I have similar views on the 427ci(4"stroke) versions of the 351w. These combos were introduced simply to satisfy the need for cubes factor and while they do satisfy that need in some respects they come up short on reliability when pushed at higher RPM.
 
I have to agree with Jac.

For my next engine I'll be using a 5.4" rod with a 4.125 bore Mahle piston that has a wrist pin located @ 1.090" and a 3.4" stroke, 4340 lightweight crank.

These are shelf parts, not special or custom order.

Prices for this setup with rings and bearings will come in around $2500.
 
Dont you mean disagree Scott.:) your combo is same as Ross. I suggested a 0.900" pin height, 5.600" rod, with the 3.4 stroke.
Yours & Ross combination works out at 1.588/1 rod ratio.
My suggestion comes out at 1.647/1 rod ratio.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Not to digress but while we're talking about rod ratios...

Jac Mac if you were going to build a 385 series BB stroker what 385 series stroker would you go with? HP numbers need to start with 7. I just recently got some BB Blue Thunder 76cc heads at a steal of a price. Block choice has not been decided but assume we're open to about anything that isn't unobtainium.

Now back to Ross's race engine.
 
Not to digress but while we're talking about rod ratios...

Jac Mac if you were going to build a 385 series BB stroker what 385 series stroker would you go with? HP numbers need to start with 7. I just recently got some BB Blue Thunder 76cc heads at a steal of a price. Block choice has not been decided but assume we're open to about anything that isn't unobtainium.

I have the inside line on whats going to happen here,so will give it some more thought, have the contenders decided on what type/octane fuel is 'allowed' as yet.:)
 

Ron Earp

Admin
I have the inside line on whats going to happen here,so will give it some more thought, have the contenders decided on what type/octane fuel is 'allowed' as yet.:)

Gotta be 93 Octane pump gas, or probably around a 96-97 Euro octane rating.
 
My 2 cents worth:

Been through this 347 saga recently. My 40 is for competition, so I specced my engine as follows:

New Ford Racing Boss block. Bored 30 thou.
Scat 347 rotating assembly. Cast crank, I beam Rods and KB forged pistons. 10.44 compression ratio.
Edelbrock Victor Jr. Heads. Not ported.
8 stack DC & O throttle bodies.
Lunati Solid roller cam, Crane lifters, Yella Terra Platinum Shaft Roller Rockers. Cam specs at 50 thou 244/250 deg, .593 thou lift both in/exh
1 3/4 crossover exhaust (home made) with Edelbrock merge collectors
Wolf V500 ecu + 440 cc/min (42 lb/hr for the US folk) injectors + LS7 coil pack ignition.
Milodon road race baffled sump.

Got it going in car early this year, out to track for shakedown (with engine dyno break in rough tune only) and saw oil pressure very low after getting used to car round a few corners. Quite a few corners that is as I was primarily concerned about hot running engine. Stop for day and trundle home. (5 mins from track - lucky me!). Drain oil next day - only 4 litres comes out from a 7 quart (6.6 L) sump. But the dipstick said it was full, and foolishly, I trusted it! Engine came from builders engine break in dyno session with oil in it of course. Filled with correct amount of oil and noted this was about 1.5 inches above full line on dipstick. Anyways, next drive on the road and horrible clanking noise starts up. Turns out a big end bearing completely wiped out! Oh well, strip motor, new crank and try again. This time with standard volume oil pump and correct amount of oil in sump!

A few hundred k's of driving over past 4 weeks and no problems! Yay. Got engine finally tuned properly today and dyno results attached. Very happy with it and how it responds! Traction limited in 2nd gear and 3rd gear pulls just over 0.6 G of acceleration with 016 trans. That's pretty good based on my experience of what you need for a circuit car. Torque curve is particularly flat. Changing up gears and it just repeats the linear shove in the back, bit of a different feel to my old turbo rotary car. The sudden power drop at 6700 rpm is due to rev limiter cutting in, not the torque nosing over. Another few hundred rpm may get me 400 rwhp, but I'll leave the limiter where it is for now. Think I need some longer throttle body trumpets to shift bring the power band a little lower to suit the limitations I'm placing on my relatively cheap rotating assembly. But not for now. Time to start racing again, starting next Sunday.

Cheers,

Julian
 

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Dont you mean disagree Scott.:) your combo is same as Ross. I suggested a 0.900" pin height, 5.600" rod, with the 3.4 stroke.
Yours & Ross combination works out at 1.588/1 rod ratio.
My suggestion comes out at 1.647/1 rod ratio.

I am planning on a 5.5 rod (355 stroker) with a 3.25 stroke (327/331) for a nice
1.692/1 ratio myself. And, I am debating offsetting the pin a little so I can
decrease the timing.

Ian
 

Russ Noble

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Ford Australia are known to test an engine at full power for 24 hours and only reject them for production cars if they don't pass. The 347 stroker engines they fitted to the TE and similar model Falcons only lasted 16hrs but when stripped it was crankshaft failure not rods or pistons, so they were passed and many were built.
Ross:thumbsup:

So a crankshaft failure after 16 hrs means they passed the test!!?? I wonder what they have to do to fail the test!!??Any idea what the failure mode was and what caused it? I know Jac Mac is dying to say it was the rod ratio.......:lipsrsealed: If so, I'd love to know why and how....:idea:.

The new crankshaft has longer throw journals which increase stroke from 3" (standard 302ci) to 3.4" (347ci). Rod length is increased from 5.09" (302) to 5.4" (347), this increase in rod length attracts some critisizm as it makes for a poorer 'Rod Ratio'.
Ross:thumbsup:

Actually Ross, the increase in rod length makes for a "better" (in Jac Macs book!) ratio it's the increase in stroke that results in the "poorer" ratio, but I'll bet the increase in torque from the longer stroke is easily measurable, as will be the much lower revs at which comparable power is developed!! I doubt that the "disadvantages" of the poorer ratio are anywhere near as measurable or even significant.

What is the effect of that "poorer" ratio? I can believe the increased rod angle at certain points of the cycle will lead to greater side thrust on the pistons and bores, but is it measurable or significant bearing in mind the "normal" (say 1.5 to 1.8) range of values we are discussing? Mind you if there's greater side thrust, there has to be an opposite equal reaction at the other end of the rod, ie on the crankshaft, so that should result in more power. Does it? Is it measurable? Or is it offset by higher friction losses at the cylinder walls and/or by increased blow by?

I read that blow by only really begins to come into play at rod ratios less than 1.5.

On the subject of "poor" 1.5 rod ratios I read somewhere recently that the succesful Chevy engines at Le Mans in 2001,2002 and 2004 were 6" rods/4'' stroke. Ratio 1.5! Less than anything contemplated in most of our motors. You don't get much more of an endurance race than Le Mans. Mind you I don't know how many of those engines started the races or what percentage expired or why.

To my mind, rod ratios are more a byproduct of changing the stroke in a given block. More stroke = smaller rod ratio, generally. If you accept the simplified proposition that the power of a motor is limited by the amount of air the heads can flow, then for the same bore size and heads, the revs that it is developed at is inversely proportional to the stroke. Thus a 289 with max power at 8000 rpm will be more or less equivalent to a 347 at just under 6700. Provided gearing is altered to suit, performance should be similar.

Which will be the more reliable engine? Which will be the more durable engine? Which will be the more expensive engine to build reliably? In real life, is one likely to be more powerful than the other?

As far as a race engine engine such as Ross' is concerned, which presumably will get an annual strip, cracktest and rebuild, what are the effective drawbacks of the lower rod ratio? Jac Mac has mentioned 302 and 351 strokers being less reliable when pushed at higher RPM. That's understandable, everything is! That's because they are strokers, not because of the rod ratio IMHO. Higher RPM than what? At what point does that become a significant factor since geared to suit, with 15% more displacement over a similar 302 with the same heads/cam Ross could get by with 15% less revs. Surely more durable? No?

I think from memory the small journal 351 that I have built for my car is running 6.25 rods and 1.5 CH pistons, which with the 3.5 stroke gives a rod ratio of 1.79. Does this mean, given the same quality of internals, that I can safely use heaps more revs than Ross because I've got the better rod ratio!

Off to put my Nomex on! :flameon: :bash:
 
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Ron Earp

Admin
but I'll bet the increase in torque from the longer stroke is easily measurable, as will be the much lower revs at which comparable power is developed!! I doubt that the "disadvantages" of the poorer ratio are anywhere near as measurable or even significant.

I wouldn't be too fast to assume that. A few years ago an Engine Builder publication tested just that theory out by building long and short stroke versions of the same motor with the same displacement. The results were not conclusive and this was an extremely detailed build. It was safe to say that just slapping a longer stroke on a motor with the same displacement would not guarantee you heaps more torque.

The torque was far more directly related to the engine displacement than the stroke. And the RPM at which the peak torque occurred was indicative of the camshaft. I'll see if I can dig that piece up.
 

Russ Noble

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Ron, that's exactly what I am saying. The rod ratio has no significant effect.

What I was referring to there, is that when the rod ratio is reduced as a result of stroking a motor for more capacity, the gains from the extra cubes are measurable and far outweigh the perceived disadvantages of the lower rod ratio. Which as you say, are tenuous at best.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
Sorry Russ, I misunderstood you. The comparison as I remember was non-conclusive. If you squinted real hard you might think there were a few more ft-lbs at a few hundred revs less, but statistically it didn't hold up. On the other hand I'm sure that one can find other evidence that shows the longer rods make more torque at the same displacement. One thing is for certain - more displacement makes more torque.

I do think extreme rod ratios can be hard on components. No direct experience with it, just looking at the situation and passing anecdotal judgment. Seems to be if you want to turn a lot of RPM and want the engine to last it would be best to not be on the extremes.
 
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