Howard Jones
Supporter
Johan
Supporter
A/C Compressor brackets.
I was quite happy with my fuel system, but when I was done with it, next up was the placement of the A/C compressor and as it turned out the only place to fit it was upper right side. That ment right where the fuel inlet to the rails is located. so much for planning.
Anyway I started with making templates in plexi, then transferred it to 4mm steel.
I was quite happy with my fuel system, but when I was done with it, next up was the placement of the A/C compressor and as it turned out the only place to fit it was upper right side. That ment right where the fuel inlet to the rails is located. so much for planning.
Anyway I started with making templates in plexi, then transferred it to 4mm steel.
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Johan
Supporter
Since I bought a complete LS3 out of a Camaro I got the complete assembly drive, going through all the stuff I found the idler wheel. And since I wasn´t satisfied with the routing of the drive belt I made a 75mm spacer/stand off and placed it over and between the crank damper and alternator, that way I got a good grip on the damper (more than 270deg) and the alternator (more than 180deg)
Agree with randy - that 75mm idler needs additional support. It will very likely deflect and your belt tension will be inconsistent at best, or fail the bolt at worst.
I hope you are not using your wife’s baking rack for your powdercoating! It looks like maybe you’ve done some powdercoating in the past with that rack
I hope you are not using your wife’s baking rack for your powdercoating! It looks like maybe you’ve done some powdercoating in the past with that rack
Johan
Supporter
Randy, Cam, thanks a lot for your concern.
Initially I was planning for a support bracket up to the waterpump bolt, but the idler is so sturdy I could sit on it.
And I agree with you both, it lookes kind of weak so I almost expected some comments.
I made it out of a 30 mm shaft an took it down to 28mm.
A friend of mine has a dyno and I’m planning to run the motor in that before final assembly, so time will tell.
Initially I was planning for a support bracket up to the waterpump bolt, but the idler is so sturdy I could sit on it.
And I agree with you both, it lookes kind of weak so I almost expected some comments.
I made it out of a 30 mm shaft an took it down to 28mm.
A friend of mine has a dyno and I’m planning to run the motor in that before final assembly, so time will tell.
Johan
Supporter
I had been looking for a company anodizing my suspension parts for several weeks,called 4 or 5, none of which had the time and/or was interested in helping me out.
Finally I got hold of a small business just an hour and a half from my house and they said they were happy to help me, told me to come over with the parts as soon as I could.
I was a little suspicious since they almost sounded eager to do it, so I asked them of their experience and if they use to do car parts etz.
They answered me that they were doing a lot of anodizing for Mr. CVK and his One:1 and the Agera, so it wasn´t a hard decision to jump in my car and fly over there.
Here is the result.
Finally I got hold of a small business just an hour and a half from my house and they said they were happy to help me, told me to come over with the parts as soon as I could.
I was a little suspicious since they almost sounded eager to do it, so I asked them of their experience and if they use to do car parts etz.
They answered me that they were doing a lot of anodizing for Mr. CVK and his One:1 and the Agera, so it wasn´t a hard decision to jump in my car and fly over there.
Here is the result.
WOW!!! Great choice on the anodizing!!! Looks Fantastic!!!
Johan
Supporter
I got hold of two B5`s on the UK ebay for a very fair price. The mounts wasn`t too nice looking, so I made new in 5mm aluminium, anodized them and then had the "magic" letters milled into them.
Also changed the wheelstuds to 2,5" since the stock is just on the limit to beeing too short with the Forgestar rims. I got mine 8 turns until bottom and with M12 x1,5 it means 12mm of threads, same as diameter.
This is the Pegasus part#, the Arp/Summit is 100-7708.
Also changed the wheelstuds to 2,5" since the stock is just on the limit to beeing too short with the Forgestar rims. I got mine 8 turns until bottom and with M12 x1,5 it means 12mm of threads, same as diameter.
This is the Pegasus part#, the Arp/Summit is 100-7708.
Sweet Johan, those brackets look really slick! Good call on the studs - It's one of those items I've been dancing back and forth on. It's on the limit of what I'm comfortable with but since I won't be running slicks or driving the car that hard I opted to stick with the original studs. It's another one of those "maybe I should have done it anyway" thoughts that will be stuck at the back of my mind. Sometimes it's worth it to do it anyway just so you won't have that worry tucked away at the back of your brain.
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