SLC 24 Howard Jones

Michael Fling

Supporter
Looking great!

Fran- when you say "We will run much more aggressive aero packaging too....", does that mean a change in the body work? Also, with the rear wing, does that mount with the diffuser only or can it be in place without a diffuser?
 
Our front aero is a true wing profile...not just a splitter...we no longer use canards due to the effectiveness of the design we now use...(race car only though)
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Ben.........I think there are two of us that did the "mini Mesa" side scoops. Rob shamed me into them after I saw his car. I like them and I have had fun with the fiberglass mods I have done. The idea was to get as much air into the engine room as possible from the sides for cooling so that I can try and seal the bottom. This is one of the cool aspects of doing a SLC. It lends itself to customization.

Jack............. A mirror on each fender and a camera out the rear with a monitor on the dash in place of a center mirror is the plan . We'll see what I do when I get there.

Mike.......A tripod sort of mount could be done to support the rear bodywork. I suppose a rear wing mount could be incorporated across the rear between the two body mount points and appropriate points on the lower chassis cross member. These four points would be sufficient to support vertical wing mount posts. Do it! let's see it! We all like original ideas. That's what improves the species.
 
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Howard Jones

Supporter
Battery box fabbed up and battery in car. I really like these batteries. The one I have in my GTD is nearly 11 years old and going strong. You can also just see the oil lines to the cooler and the right side pod seal plates I made to close off the areas under the doors from the engine room.
 

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Howard,

I'm using the Odessey 925 as well. Its worked well in my hot rod and its a great space/weight saver.

The 6.2 LS3 is a bit larger than the Ford 4.6 in my hot rod. I'm wondering if it has enough cranking amps. Have you started your LS with the 925?
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Bill, I don't have the engine running yet. It's a 355 Gen 1 SBC @ 10.5 to 1 CR and 6-7000 rpm valve train parts. I do know of a race gas 347, something in excess of 12 to 1 CR, being started for some time with one of these. The real question in how long you can crank a big high CR motor with really stiff valve springs before the battery can't hack it any longer. I think that one of these 925's will be fine with just about any 400 CI ish pump gas motor as long as the motor is tuned correctly and SHOULD start. You can crank ANY battery dead if you try hard enough I suppose.

I really like these. They are clean, dry, fairly priced, light, small, and pack a lot of power.

Molleur, You guys don't miss anything. Ya, I'm getting closer everyday.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
So I bet other SLC builders have thought about the opening for the radiator exhaust. Looks small right. If you really figure out where the radiator exhaust air is going, most appears to be going into the wheel wells or under the car. That's fine for the street version. Maybe even preferable. But I am really trying to create some down force and exhausting the radiator into the wheel wells or under the car won't work. So to begin, I opened up the nose exhaust nostril using the same method as the side scoops and the real window mod.

Next I am going to build a radiator duct that delivers the radiator exhaust air directly to the outlet in the nose in front of the windshield.

Here's some pictures, more as this progresses.
 

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We did a similar thing with the 01 car.....as you say for street and regular track days its not a problem, but for full race especially when running in the summer heat it certainly helps
 
Looks well done Howard. You should also add a lip (wicker) to the trailing edge. It will help draw out the air from inside the nose by creating a pressure differential.
 

Howard Jones

Supporter
Gurney in progress. Great minds think alike. The ducting will be the real improvement, the idea is to get ALL the air that enters the nose, through the radiator and then out of the top of the bodywork and over the car.
 
Be careful that you don't create too much pressure/drag in the front of the car and hence induce lift.....

Getting the air our from under the front fenders/wheel wells is incredibly important in creating aero balance...and front downforce...which is every race cars nemesis
 
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