SLC 24 Howard Jones

Will: The back needed 1/8" spacers along with the steel collar on the dust boot to account for the taller Moog BJ. I am doing the front again with the new Moog BJ's this week. As I get things apart and measure them I'll let you know. Thanks for the heads up.

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I have found a way to reset the rotors back in their original placement in relation to the calipers. Remember that the C7 bearing in about a 1/4 inch shorter than the C4 piece it replaces. This moves the stack height of the wheel stud face, rotor, and wheel inboard that same 1/4 inch but leaves the caliper mount on the upright that did not move. This causes the caliper to be out of alinement that same 1/4 inch.

I looked at and considered a few ways to accommodate the misfit, most of which resulted in a spacer in one place or another. First the C7 bearing cannot be simply moved outboard with a spacer. This will pull the stub shaft outboard with it and use up what little clearance is left between the stub shaft bell and the upright that is left.

Then putting a spacer between the rotor and the wheel flange uses up the height of the centering ring to index the wheel. And I don't like spacers to begin with so what's left? Move the rotor with the hat offset. After all that's what it's for, to set the position of the rotor in relation to the wheel/ upright.

So I decided to trim off some of the off set on the hat. After a lot of measuring that came out to .23 less offset. Then I had to find a machine shop locally that would do a small project like this. A few weeks later I had them done by New Braunfels Machine Inc. Thank you to Bryan Murphy and his guys.

Now to put it all back together with the new spherical bearing ball joints I ordered from Fran.



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I have contacted RCR about the availability of the spherical bearing retrofit piece and would be interested in at least having a look to see if I want to re fit them into my car. More on that if I get any info from RCR.

If anybody has pictures of these pieces please post them.
You mean these?


Active Member
Looking really good, Howard. I'd recommend bending the cut ends of your safety wire back on itself; Those ends are sharp and eventually you'll gouge yourself on the sharp ends.
OK I will, my safety wire technique isn't much above a c- but I have seamed to keep things from falling off over the years.

On another matter: if the usual torque spec for a 7/16 - 14 grade 8 is about 50 ft pounds. BUT if is threaded into a 6061 aluminum body does that alter the recommended spec. If it does is there a standard for this. I am concerned about pulling the threads out of aluminum so I have usually torqued to lower numbers in the range of bolt specs. In this case I used 45 ft/lbs for the cap screws into the uprights with blue thread locker. (242)


Active Member

If the hole depth is 2 x bolt diameter and the bolt is threaded all the way in, the 50 ft lbs is a safe value.