Howard Jones
Supporter
At this point, I would advise as follows. Call whoever you got the stub shafts from and ask them what they recommend for a torque procedure AND final torque setting. Then use BLUE lock tight on the nut.
Here is my experience with the stub shafts I got from the driveshaft shop.
1. Clean all parts with brake clean, and lightly wire brush the threads and the splines on the stub shaft, the internal splines in the bearings, and the threads in the nuts. Then re-clean them.
2. Put the car up on jack stands to take the weight off bearings while being assembled.
3. Final torque the bearings assembly into the uprights. Use new nylocks each time the bolts and nuts are disassembled to remove the bearing.
4. install stub shaft into bearing,
5. Spin nut onto the stub shaft over the flat washer, Use blue lock tight.
The following are my torque settings. Again check with the manufacture of your stub shafts for their recommendations.
6. First torque to 50 lb/ft, then to 150lb/ft, then 200lb/ft. Let rest for a min or two between stages.
7. Set the car on the ground and drive it around the block or 2 miles @ < 30mph and very low corner speeds (minimum lateral loading).
8. Bring back into shop put back on jack stands and retorque to 200ft/lbs without loosening nuts.
Do 6-8 quickly while lock tight is soft. If you are in the pre-running, roll around the garage stage of your build I would do the torque settings up to 150ft/lbs as a place keeper without the lock tight until you can drive it. Then redo the torque process from the beginning as above if you are following my procedure. If you do this I would use new nuts. You can get extra sets of nuts from the stub shaft manufacture. Get them when you order the stub shafts. I do not recommend reuseing nuts if they are disassembled from the stubshaft.
I mark the nut/shaft with paint to act as a tell incase of loosening but I have not sean any yet. Nor have I felt any loosening internally to the bearing themselfs.
I have approx 1500 track miles on mine so far with no issues with the upgraded C6 XTrackers (front) and C7 (rear).
Here is my experience with the stub shafts I got from the driveshaft shop.
1. Clean all parts with brake clean, and lightly wire brush the threads and the splines on the stub shaft, the internal splines in the bearings, and the threads in the nuts. Then re-clean them.
2. Put the car up on jack stands to take the weight off bearings while being assembled.
3. Final torque the bearings assembly into the uprights. Use new nylocks each time the bolts and nuts are disassembled to remove the bearing.
4. install stub shaft into bearing,
5. Spin nut onto the stub shaft over the flat washer, Use blue lock tight.
The following are my torque settings. Again check with the manufacture of your stub shafts for their recommendations.
6. First torque to 50 lb/ft, then to 150lb/ft, then 200lb/ft. Let rest for a min or two between stages.
7. Set the car on the ground and drive it around the block or 2 miles @ < 30mph and very low corner speeds (minimum lateral loading).
8. Bring back into shop put back on jack stands and retorque to 200ft/lbs without loosening nuts.
Do 6-8 quickly while lock tight is soft. If you are in the pre-running, roll around the garage stage of your build I would do the torque settings up to 150ft/lbs as a place keeper without the lock tight until you can drive it. Then redo the torque process from the beginning as above if you are following my procedure. If you do this I would use new nuts. You can get extra sets of nuts from the stub shaft manufacture. Get them when you order the stub shafts. I do not recommend reuseing nuts if they are disassembled from the stubshaft.
I mark the nut/shaft with paint to act as a tell incase of loosening but I have not sean any yet. Nor have I felt any loosening internally to the bearing themselfs.
I have approx 1500 track miles on mine so far with no issues with the upgraded C6 XTrackers (front) and C7 (rear).
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