Southern GT #70

isn't there another oil pressure block off port at the back starbord side of the block that can be used as well or is that into the water jacket?
There are three at the back, one for each lifter gallery & one for the rear of the main oil gallery, there is verticle gallery from rear of valley down thru RH lifter gallery to rear of main gallery.Later dart & SVO blockshave revised size & position of these with some additional drillings for front lifter galleries along with provision for priority oiling at both ends and depending on how you or your builder wishs to plumb things up.
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There are three at the back, one for each lifter gallery & one for the rear of the main oil gallery, there is verticle gallery from rear of valley down thru RH lifter gallery to rear of main gallery.Later dart & SVO blockshave revised size & position of these with some additional drillings for front lifter galleries along with provision for priority oiling at both ends and depending on how you or your builder wishs to plumb things up

well explained. good detailed views
 
Not sure if I’m missing something here, but why would you want to restrict oil flow to such very important parts of the motor confused
What I understand of it , is that bearing nr5 ( at the end of the gallery and far away from the pump)is the latest served with oil, and by restricting the flow a bit to the lifters , bearing nr 5 get some more oil .... but this only my way of understanding it...
Paul
 
What I understand of it , is that bearing nr5 ( at the end of the gallery and far away from the pump)is the latest served with oil, and by restricting the flow a bit to the lifters , bearing nr 5 get some more oil .... but this only my way of understanding it...
Paul
FWIW I do not use much if any of those restrictors. I usually end up fitting new cam bearings and in doing so offset #2.3.4 so they act as a re- strictor. There is no point in having anything at #1 and #5 is more useful with full flow as you will see shortly. Cleaning up the drainage hole from valley to timing gear is a waste of time as the volume of oil being thrown from the timing gear actually ends up in the valley. The drain holes in centre of valley are best fitted with 'stand pipes' to make the oil drain thru the two drains at rear of valley, this reduces the amount of oil draining onto the cam & crank & therefore less windage. Lifter bores, Comp Cams sell a tool that cuts a vertical groove in each lifter bore so that oil is squirted at cam lobe at the point where cam follower engages with the lobe ( takes a bit to get your head around it, but since I started doing this Ive not lost a flat or roller cam follower. Its also wise to check all the lifter bores for square, I just put a bit of bearing blue in the face of each lifter , push it against cam and check the contact point pattern. Dont seem to be many issues with SBF etc, but that other brand have a higher fail rate. The gallery plug for 5678 lifters at front needs a small hole to spray the Dizzy gear. Probably forgotten a couple, but this is all about getting oil where its really needed and by reducing windage its free HP. I prerfer to make them priority oiling, Did that on my old Boss 302 & never had any issues.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
My son welded up my A/C bracket for me today
CAADB03B-6935-4F7C-9CA1-6AE2BA954605.jpeg
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Tried to find but could not. This is a set of Pertronix 7mm cables you make to fit, besides I have a HEI style dizzy cap for the dual sync dizzy
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Well I have gone and done it now.. while GTO racing just delivered the bearing I needed this week to complete my 1 piece main shaft changeover in my UN1 to make progress forward, now one step back..

I sold my BRG 1987 XJ6 due to divorce in 2006. Fast forward they guy that owns it contacted me last month and it has been sitting in his garage for 8 years not running. His wife has a new Lexus that will be delivered in the next week or so. She apparently wants to garage keep it and the Jag sits in the middle of the garage. Went to see her a couple of week ago when I went to drive the pace car for my old vintage club at COTA in Austin. Her clear coat has seen better days, one door has a large ding from an errant reversing driver, the leather and wood is dry and cracked. However only 96k miles and I sold it at 85k miles. She was a great smooth runner. I had rebuilt the rear suspension, done a lot of fuel injection service. The next owner had the front suspension rebushed.

It was either to the scrapper or I come get it and tow it home. So a 4 wheel trailer is rented for Saturday morning and I am off to rescue her.

I may have a car disorder. In all fairness, my girlfriend last week came home with a new Ford Bronco Badlands Sasquatch 2 door last week cause she has wanted one for 1.5years and she makes her own money...... and the Jag is free except for gas and trailer rental...well maybe paint, some fuel hose, fluid changes and lots of elbow grease.

Some one help me please stop this affliction...
Jag outsid.jpg
jag inside.jpg
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Oh my son has turned me on to these Maxpeeding Rods turbo kits. This could be a good platform for some pressurized induction!
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
CC6A8383-CD18-45E8-9754-F7917E8A6847.jpeg
Slow going since the Jag arrived and trying to get it started to only find it has a blow head gasket.
At least got the trans on the motor. There are. 3-4 small holes thru the adapter plate to the trans, anyone know what size should go there? Are they really needed?
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Motor Mount Madness:

I took advantage of time this weekend to just pop the engine in the chassis for the first trial fit. Of course it did not just jump into place. When I first bought my chassis I asked Mick if he used a special motor mount or off the shelf. He told me off the shelf for the early Mustang and since there was no sense in my mind to ship something from the UK to TX that I most assuredly could source here, I did not order with him... well big mistake. A 25mm mistake.
mount poly.jpg

mount comparison.jpg



You see I bought the Poly bushed so I would not have to worry about tearing or perishing mounts. $200. Well guess what the mounts that SGT uses are a Fairlane/Mustang mount BY2257 which are 25mm shorter than the mount I got. So with help from Morten, I called my local autoparts store and ordered the 2257 mount. Few hours later they arrived, I picked them up and guess what. Same exact size as my poly ones. Searching the internet they all looked the same. So I took Morten's advice and cut my chassis mount pieces apart, got the engine square and level in the chassis and cut, refit and tacked into place.
chopped mounts.jpg


I have not welded in some time and it shows.. in my defense the wind kept blowing my shield gas around but a little grinder work and they will do.

Engine is now in but I am unhappy of how high the carb and intake sit. I had found a 6° wedge to level the carb and this exacerbates the issue. so I will probably pull the manifold off and have it machined level and get some height back unless anyone has any other manifold suggestions. I found an Edelbrock 3721 which would drop me another 1/2" I am debating on that course and machining the carb base flat.

So one problem solved and more found......

Because I am fitting a body by Bill Hough, it is made for original road car specs, the exhaust from SGT is to fit their bodies which have different interior panels and spacing. The interior panels foul against the header pipes and will not close..
clam closure.jpg



Tackling this will be in a few weeks. I have the TD on the hoist awaiting new brake cylinders and oil seals and then I have to finish a stalled restoration on an 1980 MGB LE for a friend of mine.
 

Davidmgbv8

Supporter
Thanks Paul. I am limited in dropping my engine my the UN 1 transaxle. If I drop it down then I make the axle angle more acute.. however the bottom of my oil pan will be less prone to fouling something on the road
 
Thanks Paul. I am limited in dropping my engine my the UN 1 transaxle. If I drop it down then I make the axle angle more acute.. however the bottom of my oil pan will be less prone to fouling something on the road
Turing up side down the un box? it s possible to turn the diff in those boxes
 
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