SouthernGT No6

To recap Ric Wood motorsport suggested I may have made a mistake setting up the hydraulic lifters, causing a valve or valves, to not fully close thereby causing the backfire. He suggested taking the inlet manifold off and starting again. Followed by checking the float levels.

Mike Pass suggested an initial compression test, as that would show any valve not fully closing. Seemed good advice to me so I thought I would go fancy and buy a cheap leak down tester.

Got a bit suspicious of the readings the tester was giving as they all seemed good, so tried it on a cylinder with one of the valves fully open. It still gave a good reading so something with the tester or operator is not right.

Resorted to just a straight compression check, engine cold and producing 370hp on the rolling road, got the following

Cylinder 1 125psi rechecked 125psi
Cylinder 2 150psi
Cylinder 3 150psi
Cylinder 4 130psi
Cylinder 5 130psi
Cylinder 6 130psi
Cylinder 7 135psi
Cylinder 8 135psi

So should I be concerned about the cylinders more than 10% different than the highest 150psi.

Also, cylinder 6 spark plug was very sooty, (it may show up in the picture 3rd from bottom), compared to the rest, have swapped it with 8 but had flattened the battery and my jump starter pack so unable to check today.
 

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Can I assume you were holding throttle wide open while doing compression test?

re the leakdown tester, to get good ( low % leakdown) readings on % gauge with an open cyl something must be blocked between % gauge and spark plug adaptor. There is a restrictor between the two gauges and the % reading is of the amount of air flowing thru that restrictor, Approx 0.060" dia IIRC in an automotive application. Obviously its easier to relate % wise if you use a 100psi regulated air supply.
Quick check, with plug adaptor in open air clamp the flex line from tester to plug adaptor with pliers, reading should go from 100% to 0% as you clamp it.

 
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Can I assume you were holding throttle wide open while doing compression test?

Obviously its easier to relate % wise if you use a 100psi regulated air supply.
Quick check, with plug adaptor in open air clamp the flex line from tester to plug adapter with pliers, reading should go from 100% to 0% as you clamp it.


Instructions recommend 45 to 100psi I had the compressor at around 60 but it has seen better days. Will try the clamp test.

Thanks for the help.
 
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'Curiouser and curiouser!' cried Alice.

Started the engine took it up to 3000 rpm and the backfire appears to have gone, bit of popping from the exhaust and carbs to sort out at some point, but nothing like the loud backfire it did have. I don't think there is anything to stop it passing the IVA noise test, if it stays as it is.

So I think I may just go for IVA as is, I am not expecting it to pass first time so if it passes the noise test it will be a bonus.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TkHBroJv-U&feature=youtu.be
 
Hello Nick,
just perhaps just a fuel question? how old is the fuel in the tanks ?
start by putting fresh fuel , could solve a few problems, we overlook very often this source of problems.
greetings
Paul
 
Hello Nick,
just perhaps just a fuel question? how old is the fuel in the tanks ?
start by putting fresh fuel , could solve a few problems, we overlook very often this source of problems.
greetings
Paul

Thanks Paul,

Suggested by the esteemed Ken Coleman so you are in good company new fuel in the second tank complete with fuel stabilizer. The first tank had Shell Optimax and apparently can go off after about 8 weeks.


Sounds good to me Nick.
Of course that doesn't mean a lot.
Go for it mate.

Means an awful lot to me Bob :thumbsup:

Thanks
 
Nick,
from what i haved learnt , aluminium and metal can become Under conditions of temperatures humidity etc etc real catalysers on chemics from which the fuel is build of .
petrol or even diesel standing still in a tank/reservoir will start separate Under various densities of the mix and create new combinations of liquid, sometimes very unstable and prown to detonation because Under vacuum in the intake manifold the process of evaporation is uncomplete ,and on the other hand sometimes not even burning or burning slow, because the heptane( the only element in the fuel which actually burns!) is not in the mixture anymore .
on actual euroboxes(vehicles i mean) the fuel tanks have internal chemical treatment to minimize these negative effects we experience sometimes with our cars

fresch start= fresh fuels

Paul
 

Rune

Supporter
In normal gasoline you will find Platformate and Tops + some C4 butane. Platformate(has the high octane number) is the power part of the fuel and Tops (have low octane number) is the light stof that do it easier to start butane is normally added because the refinery find it easy to get rid of and it has a high octane. The Tops is light and vapurate easy together with the butane, so if the car have not been used for long time it can be hard to start as with the lawnmower. Always use fresh gas. And diesel stand still for many years does not seperate. but you can find some water in bottom of the tank. I have been working on a refinery for many years and never seen separation of diesel og gasoline.
Nick,
from what i haved learnt , aluminium and metal can become Under conditions of temperatures humidity etc etc real catalysers on chemics from which the fuel is build of .
petrol or even diesel standing still in a tank/reservoir will start separate Under various densities of the mix and create new combinations of liquid, sometimes very unstable and prown to detonation because Under vacuum in the intake manifold the process of evaporation is uncomplete ,and on the other hand sometimes not even burning or burning slow, because the heptane( the only element in the fuel which actually burns!) is not in the mixture anymore .
on actual euroboxes(vehicles i mean) the fuel tanks have internal chemical treatment to minimize these negative effects we experience sometimes with our cars

fresch start= fresh fuels

Paul
 
It turned out the flexing observed on the rolling road I discovered was due to play in the accelerator pedal bush.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A78mEFWPDzg

A quick call to SGT and Mick said send it back and we will have a look. Pedals came back with a new improved accelerator pedal upgrade (picture one old pedal 2 new pedal).

Amazingly, even though I bought the pedal box many years ago, unlike other companies no charge from Mick for the work or upgrade.

Other pictures show more IVA stuff, mesh over apertures, wheel arch extensions and headrests added.
 

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Hi Nick,
Those are seriously bling rear arch extensions, can’t wait to see them on the finished car :laugh: :laugh:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>
Can’t be far of going for it’s IVA, have you got a date yet?<o:p></o:p>
Rgds,<o:p></o:p>
Andy<o:p></o:p>
 
Hi Nick,
Those are seriously bling rear arch extensions, can’t wait to see them on the finished car :laugh: :laugh:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" /><o:p></o:p>
Can’t be far of going for it’s IVA, have you got a date yet?<o:p></o:p>
Rgds,<o:p></o:p>
Andy<o:p></o:p>

I was hoping August 2016 then, October 2016, then December 2016 so maybe early 2017 :)

Now having to sort out my 3rd throttle cable, hopefully I will be able to keep this one away from the heat, and it will require a little less force to operate it. The missfire has returned :(

I have heard IVA can get funny if they don't think things are permanent may have to dig out my chest wig and gold medallion to convince them about the wheel arch extensions, they where cheap ;)
 
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Well it has been a couple of trying months. As pointed out by Ric Wood Motorsport, my throttle cable was very stiff. I looked at my bell crank which was in the middle of the stacks and noticed the actuating bar was not straight so drilled another hole for the crank stand still no joy.

My carbs came assembled but with the old paperwork was an assembly CD with a section on the throttle / crank setup. This showed the bell crank on the outside of the throttles so I quickly cobbled up an assembly, like the one in the picture.

The throttle was lighter but still too stiff. I took the throttle cable off and realised it was binding so replaced it with my first throttle cable. Hey presto light throttle cable and pedal.
Then my MSD stopped producing a spark. This was the 2nd box I have used, a MSD 6A bargain thanks to Mike Pass. The first one was a 6AL so I am now on my 3rd box which is a bit worrying and very expensive.

Car was then booked into the local garage for a brake and headlight aim check prior to IVA. Day before I was due to collect the trailer no spark again. Oh dear what a shame never mind, trailer cancelled. No spark turned out to be a loose power in connection, trailer re-booked.

Trailered the car to the garage, the good news was I had rear brakes bad news no front brakes, handbrake marginal, not enough adjustment on the headlights.

Quick call to Mick at SGT he asked where my 0.625 master cylinder was as some pedal boxes had it in the middle and not on the far right where it needed to be to stand any chance of being able to adjust the bias bar to get front brakes. No prizes for guessing where mine was, Mick also sent me some more adjusters for the lights, to solve that problem.

I had never been happy with my amateurish mythology when installing my copper brake and clutch pipes so took the opportunity and ordered some custom made braided ones to replace the copper ones.

Got a little despondent over the Christmas period as I have to push the car out of the garage to work on it and it’s getting cold, and everyone else’s Southern GT builds look immaculate when I compare them to mine. I want to go back, start again and get it right first time :(

However, it’s now 2017 as fans of my Rugby League team chant regularly, “it’s always our year, it’s always our year just like the last one, it’s always our year”.

So have to hope this is my year and doesn't turn into the busted song, "I've been to the year 3000 and not much has changed, Nick is still trying to get through IVA and Warrington still haven't won a Grand Final.
 

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Hi Nick
keep at it, your slowly ticking off the the to-do list
It's hard to get motivated when it's miserable outside (especially if you can't work on the car in the garage), but you are making progress
Book your IVA test and give yourseld a deadline!!
Rgds,
Andy
 

Dave Bilyk

Dave Bilyk
Supporter
Hi, Nick can I suggest you watch some GT40 / LeMans videos for inspiration. That should get you firing on all cylinders again mate :)

Dave
 
Hi, Nick can I suggest you watch some GT40 / LeMans videos for inspiration. That should get you firing on all cylinders again mate :)

Dave

Thanks Andy, agreed Dave but I went to the Northern Section annual Christmas lunch yesterday and the usual protagonists sorted me out in the nicest possible way.

Although the Eaton Mess added a few more pounds :(
 
Another major milestone, they have received my IVA application :-

"Thank you for your Technical Test Application.If you wish to provide any further information in support of your application then please use your email software's 'Reply' function and leave the subject line unchanged."

Speaking to Mick at SGT about what needs covering interior wise for IVA compliance, one of the thing he said they like to see dashboard wiring covered, as they can look behind the dash.

Luckily I had bought my wife some new genuine Ford Fiesta mats for her valentines present so pressed her old ones into service.

I think once it is through IVA I will look at sorting out a more bespoke solution as I think it looks good.

Also made some door handle aperture covers before rain stopped play :-(
 

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Thanks to Dan Winkworth I have put right a couple of issues put right at the eleventh hour before my IVA test.

I did have a cover trim on my inner door handle, but Dan's 3d printer produce a much nicer solution. Dan also mentioned that his IVA tester did not like fully threaded bolts through the brake cable eyes and the compensator bar.
 

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