SPF p2348

Bill Kearley

GT40s Supporter
Use Loktite 262 on the threads and no washers. I'd like to see the bolts others use for the 930 CV's. I cant find small12 point head 10mm bolts and socket head don't leave room for a band.
 

Steve

Supporter
Bob, engine is already in place, no cutting needed with Dennis' front dress kit.
Next, clutch is bled and seems to be working fine. Rear subframe with the support bar is attached. Have no idea what the torque specs are. Started at 20lb and went up to 65lb. Really not sure about this but don't want to over torque. Stopped there. For suspension bolts, trading out grade 5 to grade 8 (the four on the bottom of the subframe in the second pic. Cardboard cutout of the bottom of a planned heat shield. Mike Murphy is helping me with the dimensions, but it's pretty self-explanatory.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Just found out the vent plug for the hole on the top comes apart and you can unscrew the vent leaving the plug in place. It's a 3/8"NPT. Now I'll be inserting a 90 degree 3/8"NPT to -6AN into that hole and use an external vent. Should prevent the blow-by that Dennis has noted on the track. Yet another Dennis tip (probably #356 by now).
 

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Steve

Supporter
half-shafts and sway bar are in. In a RHS, there's a panel right behind the gearshift that enables you to adjust the shifter fore and aft as well as clock it for the right position. Think I have that done correctly. First two photos are the initial shifter install mismatched, 3rd one is the shifter installed and in neutral.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Still had issues with the coolant hoses rubbing against the dry sump belt. As a result, had some custom elbow made and now all is well. The clearance is still only a 1/2" or so. Also, the pulley is probably 3/8" or less from the firewall.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Next up is hooking up the oil pressure, oil temp, and coolant temp sensors. Dennis gave me a little fitting seen in the first photo. Screws into another fitting at the left front of the block, second photo. That's for the oil pressure, which is just a plastic tube. There's a bundle that includes the coolant and oil temp sensors, in the third photo. Coolant temp goes in the intake manifold, fourth photo. Not sure where the oil temp sensor should go..........

Maybe will need to plumb it into the dry sump lines.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Finishing up the heat shields to go around the exhaust (pics coming soon) and next will be mounting the dry sump tank.
 

Steve

Supporter
All coolant lines finished (first 3 pics)
Beginning the plumbing for the dry sump. 4th pic shows the oil temp sensor plumbed in line. 5th pic is the coolant temp sensor. 6th pic is the breather for the dry sump tank. In the 7th pic, there are two oil lines, one to go from the oil cooler back to the engine (via the oil temp sensor) and the other is from the oil pump to a remote primer that I'll be installing. The oil filter will hang from the primer and the primer will pull from the dry sump tank to prime the engine with a drill (supposedly can get 20psi) after it's been sitting for months. The primer will sit on the truss to the right and feed the oil cooler which will be mounted on the rear truss. Awaiting some brackets that need to be custom fabricated to mount the oil cooler. Last pic is the AC compressor connected to the lines.
 

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Randy V

Admin
Lifetime Supporter
Looking really good. I’m a little concerned, however, that your oil tank is so close to a potential source of ignition (exhaust). The concern really manifests itself when looking at it from the perspective of a racetrack scrutineer (which I once was) and judge the car’s crash worthiness. The heat containment shields may well mitigate the risk.
 

Rick Muck- Mark IV

GT40s Sponsor
Supporter
Looking really good. I’m a little concerned, however, that your oil tank is so close to a potential source of ignition (exhaust). The concern really manifests itself when looking at it from the perspective of a racetrack scrutineer (which I once was) and judge the car’s crash worthiness. The heat containment shields may well mitigate the risk.
Several GT40s have the dry sump tank mounted there including some handled by Olthoff Racing. There has been no concerns from scrutineering by SVRA or HSR to date.
 

Steve

Supporter
At least the flames will be behind me.......
I got the idea, location, etc from Dennis. I've seen a few examples he's done without the heat shield too. I'm hoping that the shield plus the ceramic coating on the headers keeps the temps reasonable. I could also add some reflective gold tape to the inside of the heat shield or even insulation (I have some for the underside of the rear clip..not installed yet) if temps get too high. Since Dennis uses this setup on the track I think it'll be OK.
 

Ron Earp

Admin
There has been no concerns from scrutineering by SVRA or HSR to date.
That's because some of the folks in SVRA and HSR are more concerned you have period correct decals, bias ply tires, your paint code is period perfect, and got your jaunty cap on at the right angle than they are about car safety prep.....

And Randy is being modest.

That said not a lot of room for anything on a 40 and you have to deal with fitment. Rear end to the wall won't be a good thing but there really isn't a good corner for a GT40 to get hit on.

Car looks awesome though and will be a fun ride.
 
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Larry L.

Lifetime Supporter
No car that has ever been built or ever will be built (GT40 or you-name-it) is/will be 100% safe for its occupants in any and all situations.
That's just reality (as dictated by both 'MURPHY' and the laws of physics).
 

Mike

Supporter
No car that has ever been built or ever will be built (GT40 or you-name-it) is/will be 100% safe for its occupants in any and all situations.
That's just reality (as dictated by both 'MURPHY' and the laws of physics).
I will have to second that
 

Steve

Supporter
Redid the electrical. Got rid of the Ron Francis item as it wasn't necessary. Moved the MSD out of the box due to concerns about heat. Now it sits on top. Battery is an antigravity lithium battery. YTX-20 size, just a couple pounds. 900CA

https://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/products/starter-batteries/restart-oem/atx20-hd/


There wasn't enough slack in the coolant and oil temp sensors so in the process of "teasing" them over to the engine, I likely cracked the tubes. As a result, they're not working. Bought electric versions from Nisonger to replace. Far fewer headaches from a wiring standpoint and likely more reliable. That's the next project.
 

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Steve

Supporter
Dry sump tank is installed. License plate and back up camera and lighted screws are in, need to be wired when the rear clam goes in. Changed out the mechanical oil and coolant temp gauges to electrical ones from Nisonger. The car should come with these from Superformance. On to the oil cooler install next.
 

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