T70 barn find ?

Thanks Jim...
Hey, do you have any spyder bodywork left ....?
If so, is it really lightweight or medium , or what ?
David, do you run with the original lightweight bodywork, or is yours a more durable thicker body ?
I don't car about how well it holds paint, so long as it does not crack.
David, this is what the "Sunoco" car used to look like.
Also, I need a new left side fuel cell. It looks like a caterpiller, with indentations for the pod ribs.
 

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Hi
I have an original Specialized Mouldings Nos Coupe body but my Spyder Body is long gone.
(Unpainted body hanging on wall)
 

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How can anyone say a MK IV body is not rolling sex !
Jim, are you going to Goodwood this year ? If not, I've rented a track for that weekend and am inviting friends to come out and play (casual laps).
 

Dave Wood

Lifetime Supporter
I must say that is quite a nice find. It also looks like the chicken coupe/barn/sorncrib/whatever it was in was pretty clean from the looks of the car. Congratulations. Makes me want to go hitting old farms in the area this weekend.
 
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If my wife sees that crap she will have my a$$. If I can make it through this weekend without her discovering them, I think I'm safe ! My house is full of Lola crap from the basement to the attic. There was an intake manifold in the dishwasher last night and I got busted for that.

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Try getting your wife involved. I took my wife for a couple of rides in my cars, and now she's nagging me for more rides. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Johan,
Something looks different in the hub area of your ft wheel, I think it is the center hole is smaller size than I have seen. There should be a dust cap on there as well, mine were crome plated. some owners use a "Nylo" seal behind the nut and run without a cap.

The "correct" MKI wheels are 8" wide but the spokes do not taper closer together as they go outward to the rim, they stay parallel. Later wheels in 8" taper as in your photo, and the spokes run longer into the wheel rim like yours do. Yours look like the 8" wheels. There is a 9" spoke wheel like yours, the difference is, the spokes stop at the first point they meet the outer rim and do not continue down the side of the rim drop like the ones in your photo.

The Lola Wheels have been known to break, I saw one break on the front straight of Sears Point, CA, it broke in the rim lip area, the other one broke in mid-spoke, actually it cracked and was taken off the car. Several T-70 owners will not trust the original wheels and run copies, old Halibrands or Jongblood wheels.

On my car I have an original T-70 coupe wheel I can take a photo of if you want to see one. Supposedly the coupe wheels have a lip on the edge of the rim where a tire machine tool would rub. The Can-Am wheels seem to have just a raised lip there, but the coupes have a cuved lip similar to a steel wheel that you almost could attach a clip-on wheel weight to.

I have Halibrand wheels that say "Mecom Racing" on the backside and also the backspace: 2.5" ft 4.5" rear, and the wheel width: 9" ft and 12" rear.

John Mecom was the Lola importer before Carl Haas took it over, Haas was the McLaren (Trojan?) Importer before he switched to Lola.
I think by the time the MkIII came out, Haas was the importer. I'd guess 1967 or 1968.

David
 
Johan,
Pardon me, but your photos are blurry!
If you are using a point and shoot film camera, make sure you hold it steady for a longer time after you press the button. My first photos came out like some of yours, I did not allow enough time for the camera to autofocus and snap the photo before I lowered it.

Perhaps it's something else, but I'm wishing they were clearer so I can really check your car over!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Jim,
I didn't know what to call you! Your name does not appear over your Avatar like everyone else.

You guys have some great cars!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Thanks Jim...
Hey, do you have any spyder bodywork left ....?
If so, is it really lightweight or medium , or what ?
David, do you run with the original lightweight bodywork, or is yours a more durable thicker body ?
I don't car about how well it holds paint, so long as it does not crack.
David, this is what the "Sunoco" car used to look like.
Also, I need a new left side fuel cell. It looks like a caterpiller, with indentations for the pod ribs.

[/ QUOTE ]

Johan,
I use an original body for a MkII. My MkI body that came with my car was smashed up pretty good and came with a MKIII spyder non-headlight nose.

The body I use is an original, it was used on the John Surtees MkII that ran at Stardust Las Vegas in 1967.
Surtees drove a MKIII that year but didn't like it! He repurchased his "old" MkII 1966 chassis and used wider MKIII 9" front wheels and I believe he used his MkII body on it but with flared front and rear wheelwells to clear the wider wheels. When I sanded down the body, I found it to be red with white Surtees arrow down the center on nose and tail!

I get starburst chips on the fender tops front and rear. I don't have any protection underneath and of course slicks throw lots of rocks. No cracking problems to speak of and I have raced the car since 1978! but only average one event a year because I'm pretty buisy working on our family farm.

I made up a "mock up" fuel tank out of aluminum and had a new cell made to fit that, my car was originally built with just fuel tanks with baffles! I cut open the pass side top, and removed the baffles, my tanks are .090" thick aluminum made up of four sections welded together. I guess Lola didn't have the equipment to form a long fuel tank that thick, so they made it in smaller sections. The original owner Buck Fulp, told me he had a leak in it at a race in Florida.

I made a rivet on top cover to the tank and installed a flush filler cap on the cover plate, I open the door to fill it. It isn't safe to race with the standard fillers, they have long hoses reaching to the filler caps, if the car were to get body damage there, the fuel would spill out very easily or tear the bladder.

The MkI tub is supposed to be 50 lbs heavier than a MkII due to more steel used instead of aluminum, and thicker tanks. Most MkI's have been re-tubbed by now. the advantage is, they hold up pretty well and seem to be stiffer torsionally.

Another weakness is the throttle pedal, the pivot for it is very weak and if the driver downshifts by hitting the pedal with some side pressure, the pedal can break off! Mine did at Laguna Seca, but first before it broke completely off, it bent outward and stuck wide open!!! THEN it broke off.

The pedal wedged against the right side of the tub in the floored position.

I made a bracket to suport the gas pedal pivot on it's outer end so that can't happen again.
David
 
Thanks David. My car is a MK II, not a MK I. The wheel center has a "cap" covering the bevel cut out for a knock-off. I'll take another picture of the wheel without this. I'm sorry to hear about the original wheel problem. I have three sets of original wheels. Crap ! Two sets look like these. This is the car at a car show in 1980.
Sorry about the crummy pictures. I agree that they are blurry.
 

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Ben, she just does not care for the car stuff. Oh well, at least she lets me have my fun. They all look the same to her.
 

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Here is the chassis from the last time it was restored. You can see the remnants of a roll bar. This picture was taken in november 1980 I believe.
 

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The picture above shows the car as it came, painted gray all over. It was restored and turned in to a coupe. Below is the progress of the restoration. I have to redo all this .
 

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[ QUOTE ]
Johan,
Pardon me, but your photos are blurry!
If you are using a point and shoot film camera, make sure you hold it steady for a longer time after you press the button. My first photos came out like some of yours, I did not allow enough time for the camera to autofocus and snap the photo before I lowered it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Also, try turning on the flash (or set it to auto mode and let the camera decide if it needs extra light). Even if the garage has enough light for you to see by, the camera might not have enough light. When using the flash, make sure you're not too close or you're at an angle to the object you're photographing so you doing get too much of a reflection.
 
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The other two are squirrled away in a weekend holiday cabin I own. Some buddies and I carried them through the door sideways and we put one in the living room, and the other in the dining room. If my wife sees that crap she will have my a$$.

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Did I mention that my bed frame is an old Lotus Elan frame (turned upside down) with a sheet of plywood on top and a pair of jackstands at one end to keep it level? I couldn't just throw it out, so I decided to hide it under my bed, then I decided to turn it into my bed. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[swmbo suggested that I should post this]
 
Hi Johan

This photo is the best I have seen of SL71/34 showing the original AAR colours at the 1966 Bridgehampton Can-Am.

Bridgehampton-1966-09-18-030.jpg


Regarding your car also finishing 1st at USRRC at Bridgehampton earlier in 66, I think Starkey and others got that wrong - the car that came 1st in that race was a MK1, SL70/10, per the photo below. As I understand it, your car only raced in Can-Am.

Riverside-1966-05-01-008.jpg


There are a few decent photos in Dave Friedman's book "Lola Can-Am and endurance racers" and Pete Lyons has some from the Bridgehampton Can-Am race. Pete's email is [email protected]

If I dig anything else out I will let you know. Good luck.

Rob
 
Ah! More photos! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Johan,
My reference before to MKI wheels was just background on the different wheels you may find. The six bolt pattern is used by GT-40 and cobra, many others too including an Eagle F5000 but the centering of the Lola T-70 wheels is the wheel pilots over the axle flange.

Original Lola T-70 wheels need to be inspected very carefully. I see some being used for vintage racing but as I said before, many are afraid to use them.

The roll bar sockets are common to the MkII and MKIII tubs. I believe the MKI's didn't have them. Mine has lower mounts for the upper trailing arms to the tub, these mounts have a saddle on top of them and the roll bar sits in the curved saddle and has ears that attach to the upper link bolt.
lola_eng_topview.jpg
 
Rob,
My Lola ran the 1965 Bridgehampton Double 500, driven by Buck Fulp. SL-70-09

Mine has lower rear trailing links that run straight forward, the area under the engine is open with no trailing link boxes like the MKII or MKIII, it was done to reduce rear bumpsteer issues.

The MKI and MKII front suspensions are almost identical. The upper balljoint is a machined up housing with plastic cup bushings on a round balljoint, the MKII uses spherical bearings.

The MKIII has the front suspension inner pickups "squared" to the chassis centerline like the rear.
 
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