Toms RCR 40 Trackracer

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Fran Hall RCR

We also have waterjetted alum. steering Rack shims on the shelf when you chose to do it at the other end of the car too....
They are in 1/8 increments for fine tuning
Very nice Tom!

Would you be so kind as to post some more detail pictures and measurements of the rear suspension?

In particular - I'm interested in how you got all the toe-out dialed back in to acceptable levels.

On my car, with the lower control arms level to the ground, I have about 3/4" of Toe Out on the rears.
I have shortened both the trailing arms as short as they will go.
The Camber is set to Zero
Lower control arm outer heims are centered (depth wise)
Lower control arm inner heim is centered (depth)
I know that I will need to adjust some of the toe with the outer heims, but I also need to lengthen the trailing arms to get back to a 95" wheelbase.

What it looks like I will have to do is to shim the lower control arm "Inner heim" toward the rear of the car by 3/8" or more.


And THANKS! :)

I used a slightly different approach.
  1. I took the spring of the shock to be able to move the suspension to the desired ride height.
  2. I calculated it by taking my tire diameter (630 mm ) divided by 2 = 315mm ( not taking in account any squeezing, when the car stands on his own weight and loading the tire). My chassis bottom plate at the rear is at 350 mm from floor. My desired ride height = 5,25"= 133 mm. So therefore the wheel/hub center should be at 350-133+315= 532 mm from the floor. This height i always tried to maintain with the strap during all the adjustments.
  3. According to Fran´s reco i adjusted the top radius rod to a lenght which resulted the top control arm running parallel to the gearbox chassis brace ( so app 90° versus the longitudenal axxis of the car).
  4. I than shortened the top control arm as far as possible ( giving the most negative camber by keeping the heim joints on the lower control arm as far in as possible)
  5. than i adjusted the outer heimjoints of the lower control arm in a way that i have almost no toe out. They are not equally threaded in on is more out than the other. To support this i shortened the lower radius arm as far as possible. This also results in the lower control arm 90 ° axxis ( imaginary line 90 ° versus the outer end of it, hope you understand i can´t explain it different) beeing also almost parallel to the vertical axxis of the car.
  6. So now you should have both control arms almost parallel the the vertical axxis of the car. The lower control arm is tilted downwards towards the front heim joint giving you the rear caster ( this one looks a little bigger than nec to me, but i will wait for my digital level to measure it exactly ). You should now also have almost neutral toe ( or an light toe out). The only thing left to adjust, is the camber. This i did with the inner heimjoint of the lower control arm. May be you than have to readjust the outer heim joints a little for the toe , but not much.
  7. I did not focus on the wheelbase as a to achieve dimension, but after doing the adjustments like discribed also in my post, it resulted in nicely centered wheels within the wheel wells ( front and rear) and exactly (
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for info:

Wheelbase with this setup is 94.5".
I´ve heard that originals had 94.6".
Therefore this is close enough for me.

Díd my body alignement.

Started with the positioning of the rocker panels. Than did align the front clip at the wheel well to the rocker panel by adjusting the locator pins.
With the spider loosely floating on the chassis i did align it together with the front clip in level and left to right position.
Next i hung the doors and adjusted the hinges in all 3 dimensions. took me some time to find out how much change in hinge position effected how much panel dimension change. Adjusted the hinges slightly tilted forward on the top, which allows the doors coming in from the top and so having plenty of clearance during closing and opening.
last thing to position was the rear clip, which i also unhinged and aligned freefloating.
To say the least, this body is very nicely done and i´m pretty pleased with the reslut so far. I have not done any gaping yet, just took as little material away as possible to get clearances where needed. Gaping will follow after every panel is fixed, hinged and latched with the weatherstripping installed. I think even gaps with about 1/8 " should be managable on this body.
Some impressions:

awh:50 h
Tom: The body panel alingment looks really good. And special thanks for your guidance when you visited.

I have been working on the same project since your visit. We have been able to get fairly tight openings as well. The doors have been a bit of a challenge. Without weatherstripping they fit very well. Then with weather stripping in place the dynamics changed and significant readjustment was needed. The doors were essentially realigned so that the inside door top would set a good quarter inch below the level of the spider without weather stripping, and then come up to the correct elevation with stripping. It is really tight. I am curious to see what your experience will be with the weather stripping in place.

We are using the JC Whitney weather stripping per RCR recommendations.

GOT my Wheels back ( after the promised lead time of 6 -8 weeks) from "Rindt Felgen".

They look great. They cut the wheel and insert a closed ring. The ring is than welded in place from both sides and than turned down i a lay. As mentioned they do a lot of this wheels and also have a TUEV certificate for a smple wheel.
THe wheels look great. I will decide at the very end of the build how to finsih them. Right now i would opt for semi gloss black powdercoating.

The dimension is now 12x15" to fit the 345/35/15 PIRELLI.

Nice deep dish

yes somehow.

The rears are available check here

The front 225/50/15 are speced new at the moment( higher y speed rating instead of a w rating). After receiving the certification pirelli will start to produce again ( ones a year). i´ve been told they will be available mid - end of may.

ZR = Autobahn here i come ( after a little more building .-)))

What color are u p'lanning to finish the beauty?

Good or wrong question.

Ideas going from F300 rosso corsa with a brilliant white stripe , over the new GT3 orange with a black stripe up to bmw motorsports blue ( the one they used on M5) with also a white stripe.
Thats my preferences but as i´m planning on selling this car, as soon it is finished for the next project, i will probably let a future owner decide. Paint is one of the last things i will do on this car prior to reassembling it.
So it will be some time until to decide also.


Hinged my doors. I modified the RCR supplied hinges slightly. Instead of using standard threaded bolts( which naturally have a little play in the holes) i made me some bolts on my lay with very tight tolerances. As a result the doorhinge is now without any free play, even with the nuts beeing tightened loosely.

Next step was to mount the door latches. I opted to use 911 latches for two reasons. First the look almost like the original ones. Second the keeper has a guiding function as well. This will help the door to come down in slight curved movement plus will keep it close without any rattling, because the latch is totally guided. As soon i have the keepers i will show it in pictures.
Onby a pic of the door latch. The plate will be polished later on and also some original style screws will be added.

I also mounted the door handles. To fix them into the door i made up stainless stell sleves to fit a 10mm bolt. I also bored the handle hole to this 10 mm. I mounted both together, and fittet it to the door, so that i have an even gap around the recess. Picture shows it mounted before gluing.

Afterwards i glued it in with a 2K Epoxy glue.

The sleves will be covered with a few layers of glassfiber to fix them and add strenght. With the sleeves nothing will wear out.
This is how it looks from the outside. They move nicely in and out wihout any play.

awh: 65h
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Randy V

Staff member
Lifetime Supporter
Nice work on the door latches Tom - I will be watching this for sure. Do you have the year / or part number of the latches?

Steve Briscoe

Lifetime Supporter
GOT my Wheels back ( after the promised lead time of 6 -8 weeks) from "Rindt Felgen".

They look great. They cut the wheel and insert a closed ring. The ring is than welded in place from both sides and than turned down i a lay. As mentioned they do a lot of this wheels and also have a TUEV certificate for a smple wheel.

Tom -
Nice build. Thanks for the pictures. The wheels do look like a good job was done with the widening. Does anybody reading this thread know of a U.S. company with a good reputation that does the same?

Steve, talk to Bill D. He had his widened.

RCR40 in the oven
Parnelli Jones 302 garage mate
Nice work on the door latches Tom - I will be watching this for sure. Do you have the year / or part number of the latches?
They are all the same from ´65 till ´93. last partnumber starts 964... ; replacing the older partnumbers.
Unfortunetaly they are awfully expensive ( 650 € each) and nobody can tell why, because other p.. latches are much cheaper as well. I bought mine used from a 73 modell for app 170 $ US. The keepers are another 150$ US new ( for both of them.). Look for a p.. salvage yard to source them.

Tom: those door latches look really nice. I suspect they are narrower as well, which means you are less likely to have an issue clearing the weather strpping when the door is closed. You are really making good progress.
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