Toms RCR 40 Trackracer

[EGLITOM]

May be we should as G-box or Eric(carquip) they would know. But if yours is a straight metrical thread, there are plenty of adapters too. tell me the thread size and i will try to look one up for your here. ( THere is a local manufacturer of this kind of parts )

http://www.krontec.de/HTMLVersion/english/Frameset.htm

TOM

 

[Randy V]

May be we should as G-box or Eric(carquip) they would know. But if yours is a straight metrical thread, there are plenty of adapters too. tell me the thread size and i will try to look one up for your here. ( THere is a local manufacturer of this kind of parts )

KRONTEC - Fitting & Hose Systems

TOM

Hi Tom.. I was able to break-away from work for a few minutes yesterday and went out to my shop to measure the plug in the bottom (used to be the top of the trans)..

It measured 13.7mm in diameter and has a consistent thread pitch of 1.5 ..

I suppose that means that it would be a 14mm bolt.. As there was no shoulder on this bolt/plug to measure..

It uses an Aluminum washer to seal against the machined face on the transmission case.

I'll snap a picture if you need one.. Odd that my trans case is different from yours unless perhaps mine was modified somewhere along the line.

When I go to the website you link to above and click on online-catalog, I get a 404 message (not found).. ((sigh))

 

[EGLITOM]

Randy
That sounds like a M14x1,5 to me .
From what i found you have two options:
1st:
Using an -8AN to 14x1,5 Adaptor ( straight) ( summit part no EAR-9919EFHERL) and than using a 90° short elbow hose connection to Dash 8 (summit part no EAR-809008ERL )

2nd.
Using a -8 An Banjo hose connection for a 14x1,5 mm Banjo bolt. You should be able to turn it as much to clear the hoúsing.

TOM

 

[Randy V]

That straight adapter would be "perfect" and then use the 90 hose connector...

Thanks Tom! I was unable to find it in my searches!!!

 

[EGLITOM]

Doorbox installation

Hallo

After mounting my sill panels last week (finally fixed them to the car) , i mounted my doorboxes today. This is not a critical step right now but I itend to dó all the cutting and fiberglassing before heatcuring the body.

It was a pretty straight forward thing to do. I did a cardboard template upfront for defining the correct cutout dimensions.
After cutting out the original parts i drilled the holes in the doorbox and the doors. Installed 6mm rivnuts in the doors, defined the location for the pull strap and opened it up. After mounting the pull strap to the porsche latch i installed the doorboxes into the door opening.

I love that look of the red pull strap in contrast to the semigloss black doorbox. It works great for opening the door and won´t make any rattling noise.

cutout in door

rivnuts put in

installed doorbox

pull strap detail

awh:260

TOM

 

[Randy V]

Door boxes? Very interesting!!!! I've not seen those before... Another piece created in Tom's shop?

 

[EGLITOM]

Thanks Randy,

Actually i thought about doing them, but than i started to look around what exists. I had a set of another manufacturer here, but they where to small, the ones i choosed i ordered from SPF, they fit pretty good and take full use of the available space, giving me maximum storage capacity.
TOM

 

[Keith]

Tom,
Those door panels look GREAT! How do I go about getting some?
Thanks, Keith

 

[Randy V]

Tom - With those Door-Boxes, can you tell me how much space between the outer door skin and the backside of the door boxes?
I am constructing an anti-intrusion beam to go between the door hinges and the latch plates on the rear of the doors.
I've gotten a price of just over $100 USD for each door box from SPF.

 

[EGLITOM]

Randy
the doorboxes are 5 1/2" deep from the mounting surface to the back.
The price is the same i paid.
TOM

 

[Randy V]

Thanks Tom!

 

[Will Parker]

How did you connect the outside door handle to the latching mechanism?

 

[EGLITOM]

Hi Will
Outside Doorhandle is connected to the latch with a 2mm stainless steel wire with fastening eyes on each end. I adjusted the length of the steel wire in a way that the latch activation only starts after you could get a full gripp of the handle (means the first inch of handlemovement is pretty light to get it out of the body opening).
Inside pull strap has also a fastening eye on the end which is directly screwed to the latch mechanism. As both connections are flexible and both are working on pull, they still work independent from each other, means if i pull one of them, the other one is not moving ( as they would do if you choose a rod connection). The other advantage is that they do not rattle.

TOM

 

[EGLITOM]

Total Door Weatherstripping

Parallel to doing all the bodywork, i do all the things which are attached or connected to the body.

One of this things is the door weatherstripping. I´m not intending driving this car in the rain, but it happens to often, that one get caught by it. So i try to do seal the car to be watertight ( or at least somehow watertight).
For this i added weatherstripping to the bottom and the front of the door.
The bottom sealing also clamps the sill ( described in a earlier post).

I built the front door seal plate out of 2mm Alloy and the 25x25mm Angle stock. The side of the angel stock on which the weatherstripping is mounted was cut down to a leg length of 18 mm. This way the weatherstripping fits right in front of the inside corner of the door. If there would be outside airpressure, it would be pushed to the back cornerside and still provide a seal.

In the final installation ,the corners and the connection to the spider will be sealed with black PU seal. The joining corners of the weatherstripping will be glued together with superglue to provide a "seamless" sealing.

parts for door front weatherstripping

Complete mounted

total sealing around the door

AWH: 300 h


TOM

 

[Jack]

Nice work. Looks neat and functional too.
Good job!

 

[Chris Kouba]

Re: Total Door Weatherstripping

Parallel to doing all the bodywork, i do all the things which are attached or connected to the body.

One of this things is the door weatherstripping. I´m not intending driving this car in the rain, but it happens to often, that one get caught by it. So i try to do seal the car to be watertight ( or at least somehow watertight).
For this i added weatherstripping to the bottom and the front of the door.
The bottom sealing also clamps the sill ( described in a earlier post).

I built the front door seal plate out of 2mm Alloy and the 25x25mm Angle stock. The side of the angel stock on which the weatherstripping is mounted was cut down to a leg length of 18 mm. This way the weatherstripping fits right in front of the inside corner of the door. If there would be outside airpressure, it would be pushed to the back cornerside and still provide a seal.

In the final installation ,the corners and the connection to the spider will be sealed with black PU seal. The joining corners of the weatherstripping will be glued together with superglue to provide a "seamless" sealing...

TOM

Nice work man... Looks vaguely familiar too!

 

[EGLITOM]

Removable Dashboard

My RCR 40 is fitted with the rollcage option. With this i wanted to have a solution for my dashboard to be removable.


Is stole this idea from my 1:18 exoto mark 2 Daytona No 98 car.

Cut off right hand side corner with added lip and nutserts

in the car before mounting the dashboard

Nice fit with dashboard mounted

The dashboard goes in and out very nicely without the need to remove anything else.
I also aligned the steering column with the longitudenal axxis of the car. It now runs exactly over the centerline of the seat, so that i can sit exactly straight and perpendicular in front of the steering wheel. It also is perfectly centered now in the column cutout of the dashboard

Column centered in dashboard cutout

TOM

AWH: 315 h

 

[Chris Duncan]

That side-to-side cable doesn't look like it's centered too well, almost looks like it's near to binding.

 

[Andy Green]

Hi Tom

A very neat solution for the dash to roll cage area. My Tornado will have a welded in front cage and I was concerned on how to have a tidy solution in this area. You have kindly provided a solution

You may however need to reconsider the screw fixing closest to the screen, as once it is bonded in place may be very difficult to remove it.

Keep up the excellant work
Regards
Andy

 

[EGLITOM]

Kalun: This is Randy´s installation on his car, but i agree it looks very close.

Andy: thanks, I have tested the removal of this very screw, it works quite well with a shortened allen head key and the screw can be removed.

TOM