Tornado Build - www.gt40builder.com

Did a little bit more work today on the car. The holes are now cut for the cooling pipes at the front of the car, gear linkage in the rear bulkhead, hole for seatbelt mounting point on the inside sill panels.

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Also finished marking the rear sill for the battery box slot which I am going to cut tomorrow.

Trev
 
Battery box section cut today. I also finished deburring and prepping the all the rear panels ready for powder coating.

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Trev
 
HI Trev,
Are you still thinking of a black powder coat finish? I am really happy with the look on my panels, satin black. Your work looks great!
Bill
 
Trevor,
I have to say you are doing a marvelous job on your build. I have to ask this question of you and any of the ones currently building a 40. Are you using only rivets/nutserts, or are you incorporating any panel adhesives along with the rivets?? I ask this because i recently ran across some new information(actually rather old info) about the adhesives. My painter is currently adding a few stop panels in my gas tank for a flapper valve to keep the fuel near the fuel pickup. He related the story to me about when he went to work for a Ford dealership and started using the adhesives back around 91. The dealership challenged him on their ability to hold the panels in place since they were going to warranty the work. He set up a demonstration with two panels joined in a lap weld setup. Did it as he would any other panel and allowed it to cure for 24 hours. They hooked it up to a frame straightening rig and tried to pull the panels apart. the metals sheared before the panels moved. The adhesive is rather expensive and the gun cost about $100. It is a two part mixture. This stuff is able to stand up to gasoline as well, though it not recommend. He repaired a tank puncture with it and two years later not a leak. Just curious. i understand the use of rivets as a quick way to attach the panels. However, I can't think of a reason to remove them other than in a damage situation. I know they use them in the airline business, but they are interested in mass production. One of the reasons I chose the DRB(GT40 Australia) was the welding of the panels to the frame, and the strengthening of the frame assembly. Your thoughts and any others welcome.

Bill
 
Trevor,
I have to say you are doing a marvelous job on your build. I have to ask this question of you and any of the ones currently building a 40. Are you using only rivets/nutserts, or are you incorporating any panel adhesives along with the rivets?? I ask this because i recently ran across some new information(actually rather old info) about the adhesives. My painter is currently adding a few stop panels in my gas tank for a flapper valve to keep the fuel near the fuel pickup. He related the story to me about when he went to work for a Ford dealership and started using the adhesives back around 91. The dealership challenged him on their ability to hold the panels in place since they were going to warranty the work. He set up a demonstration with two panels joined in a lap weld setup. Did it as he would any other panel and allowed it to cure for 24 hours. They hooked it up to a frame straightening rig and tried to pull the panels apart. the metals sheared before the panels moved. The adhesive is rather expensive and the gun cost about $100. It is a two part mixture. This stuff is able to stand up to gasoline as well, though it not recommend. He repaired a tank puncture with it and two years later not a leak. Just curious. i understand the use of rivets as a quick way to attach the panels. However, I can't think of a reason to remove them other than in a damage situation. I know they use them in the airline business, but they are interested in mass production. One of the reasons I chose the DRB(GT40 Australia) was the welding of the panels to the frame, and the strengthening of the frame assembly. Your thoughts and any others welcome.

Bill

Hi Bill

I am using the recommended method by Tornado which is to line all panels with automotive standard polyurethane sealant along the drill lines before finishing with rivets approx every 2".

This means you have a good seal and fit all around and also helps prevent water getting under the panels or into the car. Not something every GT40 would concern themselves with but in the UK the chances of getting caught out in a rain shower are very high :)

Hope that helps

Trev
 
HI Trev,
Are you still thinking of a black powder coat finish? I am really happy with the look on my panels, satin black. Your work looks great!
Bill

Hey Bill

Yeah having all the panels powder coated but leaving it until the last possible moment and when all holes have been cut in my panels. I did consider anodising the panels but I think powder is the best route for my requirements.

Can I ask can you get different types/standards of powder coating? The reason I ask is because I want a good resistant coating that wont chip, scratch or flake easily. Also once the panels are coated can you reapply powder coat to them to cover and scratches etc or does the panel have to be stripped first?

Trev
 
Bit more progress tonight. Finished deburring all the panels ready for powder coating and covered all drilled areas with masking tape to prevent any dirt, dust etc getting into the rails.

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Trev
 
Passenger wheel arch 95% done. Just have a few little jobs to do tomorrow and then need to start packing everything up for the house move.

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Trev
 
Trevor

Looking great , can't wait to see it powdercoated and ready for suspension etc.

Nice thread to watch

Cheers

Karl
 
Finally moved, thank God!!! Car is now in it's new home but I think it's going to take a good few weeks to sort the garage out and start work back on the car.

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Trev
 
Well finally got the garage sorted out, walls painted, rubber flooring down and shelves etc fitted. Now it's time to start work back on the car

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Trev
 
Oh for a garage like that!! Very nice Trevor keep up the good work!

However, if you feel like you need more of a challenge, nip round the M25 and come and help me in my single garage :)

Brett
 
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