Hi Doug,
Back to the dry sump design. I agree with the majority of previous answers, dry sump is only interesting for the track with racing tires that will allow strong lateral accelerations. Forget it for a street use even if from time to time you go to the track, it is not a cheap deal

. Anyway, my purpose today will be to indicate what you will need to do if you decide to install it.
a) block modification.
I suppose you have a standard 302 wet sump (if fortunately you have a dry sump SVO block, go the the next step). Modification 1 will be to remove the internal oil pump and to provide a plug in the oil filter hole that is in communication with the pump discharge duct (inlet side). Then you have to provide an oil fitting connector (10 or 12-AN) at the main oil galery (see picture) for oil pressure input (from external pump).
Modification 2 will be to replace both 3/8" screw at the right side of the timing cover by 7/16" studs (see picture). These studs will be in charge to fix the external oil pump support on the block.
b) Timing cover modification
You have to drill both holes for the 7/16" studs (just enlarge existing holes). Then you have to bring it to the workshop to machine the pump support area (to be sure that the oil pump support will be straight). If you have an oil dip stick remove it and put a plug in the hole.
c) Oil tank
Select an oil tank that could be installed as close as possible from your oil pump. Preference is that bottom level is above the oil pump suction point to facilitate oil input with a large hose (16-AN is perfect)
d) dry sump
Select a dry sump with at least 2 suction points (front and side).
e) External oil pump
Select an oil pump according to your dealer local recommendation. The stage number as well the stage size should be in relation with your engine.
Best manufacturers are Barnes, Peterson, Weaver, Gambler, Aviad...
f) Oil pump support
You have to made a strong support to fixe the pump on the block
g) Pulleys
In order to drive the external oil pump, you have to provide:
- To remove the existing pulley on the crankshaft
- To fix a new pulley support on the damper (see picture) This support shall be sized in order to have a good alignement with the oil pump pulley as well with the water pump pulley.
- To install a new set of pulley(s) to drive water pump (and alternator if any) on this support
- To install a new Gilmer pulley to drive the oil pump (usually 16 tooth)
- To install a Gilmer pulley on the oil pump shaft (usually 32 tooth to have an initial ratio of 0.5)
- To provide a tooth belt sized accordingly (usual length between 22.5 to 27")
h) Plumbing
You have to provide all oil lines between oil tank, oil pump and dry sump.
Aeroquip style braided lines are recommended. Provide also external oil filter
j) Head cylinder covers
As the dry sump sytem will produce vaccum in the crankcase, you have to remove and to plug the breathers (see picture).
May be I forgot some details but you have here the main lines of the requested modifications to install a dry sump system.
Tomorrow, I will explain to you what are the main advantages of this system
