Winshield screw up

[Chuck]

Just installed the windshield using 3M urethane windshield material. It is in tight. But I am not happy with my workmenship and would like to take another crack at it.

Here is the question. Can I carefully cut the windshield out with a razor or knife along the edge of the glass on the outside and inside perimeters, remove the glass, carefully cut away the residual urethane sealant, and start over again? Am I asking for trouble?

There are two issues. First, the windshield settled down a bit because my spacers along the bottom were inadequate. The gap at the top is a bit to wide and the gap at the bottom a bit too small.

Second, the bead line is rough, not smooth. Should have used a bit less urethane and perhaps a tool rather than my finger.

An easier option would be to just cut out a bit of the bead and re-caulk it without completely removing the windshield.

New territory for me, so any comments would be appreciated.

 

[Mike Pass]

The screen can be removed but using a proper tool which has an angled blade on a handle and an extended piece close to the blade with another handle which you use to pull the cutting blade through the glue line.
However I would get a windscreen fitter to do the job properly as it is a bastard of a job.
You may get away with what you have. Most GT40 screen are bonded in and then the glue line covered with a rubber strip which is glued on over the glue line. The rubber strip is usually a flattened curve - sometimes with a rib underneath which sits in the gap betwwen the body and screen. If you have filled the gap you would cut off this rib.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Mike Pass]

Pic of removal tool. These are easily avalable. Ebay etc.
Cheers
Mike

 

[Randy V]

I've used the tool that Mike is recommending.. It is a good tool, but it's still only marginally successful (in my book).. As careful as I am, I still manage to crack 3 out of every 4 windshields I cut out..

If it were me - I would call the local Speedy-Glass guy and ask him over for a visit. He can cut it out (they usually use heated tools), reposition it, install - all in one visit. For a lot less than you'll get another windshield for..

 

[Huw Peplow]

you need to get the rubber extrusion to fit round the screen edge prior to fitting as this smartens up the look and it doesnt matter how untidy the urethane is underneath!! Most manufacturers will guide you to a supply

 

[Gregg]

Chuck, I've broken my share of windshields. Leave it to the professionals. The job will be done properly and look correct and you won't have the aggravation. You're doing a super job on the build. I think the sloppy windshield install would detract from all your hard work and effort.

 

[Fran Hall RCR]

Personally I dont like the rubber extrusion around the screens...
We have done them the same way as the originals without a rubber and they look great...

 

[Rob]

Hi Chuck,
Sorry to hear it didn't go too well. Especially since I suggested the finger method and all.... Feel free to give me the finger in return...:cry:

As discussed, this is a nasty job. Messy, icky and for me stressful. However, it can be done successfully w/o the rubber surface seal. I personally did not desire that look for my build.

Regarding usage of the tool shown in previous posts; that is the tool to use for sure. I too have damage windshields with this tool though. Another concern would be chipping the paint. I'd suggest laying down blue painters tape, then duct tape on top of it. Working that tool around is not easy, and with as tight as the screens fit, paint damage is a legitimate concern. Due to this concern, I might consider razor knifing it out. However, this too would be a challenge. You would need to use a very sharp blade that could flex, so you can slice smooth the the glass from the inside. I have used a long very thin puddy knife which I sharpend on a stone for such a task. It took a while, but it worked. Warming the blade doesn't hurt either. Bottom line..it's a bitch of a job to remove it. If you're receptive to farming a job out..... I agree, it may just be good idea to hire it out. If they brake it ..... it's their headache. Additionally, I would explain to them the finish look you were wanting and confirm that they can achieve it. Again, I used a latex sealer and my finger. Since it is latex, wetting your finger can help achieve a smooth finish (material dependant).

Best of luck........ let us know how it goes.

 

[Ron McCall]

I used the rubber trim on mine and it started to shrink up after a little less than a year.So, I pulled it out and filled the void with black RTV.
My glass man told me that you want to glue the windshield in with urethane windshield sealer but it shouldn't be exposed to direct sunlight for long periods of time.
The RTV is supposed to protect the urethane .
To apply the RTV, you can apply the bead then spray it with WD-40.It will then be VERY easy to smooth out .When it dries,it leavs a nice ,semi gloss,look to the RTV.

 

[Howard Jones]

No matter what you do, do it quickly. The longer you wait the more the adhesive sets up. My 2c would be to call around and talk to some windshield pros about what you need done. Maybe a high end custom paint shop might put you onto someone that can help you.

Pay them a little extra not to hurry. I also think the adhesive might be a little softer at the end of a hot day with the car left out in the sun.

 

[Doug S.]

You would need to use a very sharp blade that could flex, so you can slice smooth the the glass from the inside.

I'd recommend a knife designed to filet fish--very sharp, particularly the point, and incredibly flexible. I have them in sizes ranging from 4" to 10", all seem to be equally flexible.

Doug

 

[David Sturch]

You can also use piano wire if the T- handled cutter does not work. Heat it up and feed it through the urithane. Clamp vise grips on either end and saw back and forth very slowly. I would clean it up myself and have a pro install the glass after. Have him do the reveal molding also. Most people cut it too short and it shrinks when the weather changes and you won't have any leaks.
Dave

 

[Chuck]

Thanks for all the good tips and suggestions.

Called in a pro. He looked at it and it was quickly apparent that he did not want to tackle the job. Too big a chance that the glass would break and too time consuming.

So I cut out the urethane around the edge of the class, a painfully slow process. Then re-caulked it with silicone, which is much easier to work with. It looks better, but not as good as it should.

That 3M Urethane is tough stuff. I doubt that the windshield will ever fall out.

If I had only known then what I know now . . . . .

 

[Randy V]

Glad to hear that you have it resolved - even though not optimal to your liking...

Sometimes compromise is the only option... ((sigh))

 

[David Sturch]

Chuck,
I guess the silicone will be ok in your windshield if it is mounted in fiberglass. If you had a steel windshield frame I would not do it because silicone retains moisture and would rot the area over time.
Dave

 

[Chuck]

Dave:

Very good point. The pro that looked at the job made the same observation about silicone causing metal to rust. But since it is all fiberglass, it should be OK.

At some point, when I get a bit better massaging caulk into a slick surface, I will cut out the silicone and take another crack at it. For now, however, it will do.